CARPERFECT Posted September 26, 2017 Share Posted September 26, 2017 Need a hub puller for asp 70 fs . Any body know where i can buy one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted September 26, 2017 Share Posted September 26, 2017 Machine mart battery lead/windshield wiper puller, about a tenner. They are great for pulling the leads off conical car battery terminals, the wiper blades off the spline on the drive shaft, prop drivers of model engines and also pulling props off when you haven't made enough clearance in the hole for the nose of the crankshaft. A note of caution, they WON'T pull the corks out of prosecco bottles . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted September 26, 2017 Share Posted September 26, 2017 Warm this with an heat gun, or your method, as this will help it off Aluminium expands more quickly than the steel shaft that it conceals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted September 26, 2017 Share Posted September 26, 2017 https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht436-battery-terminal-bearing-puller/ this should be a link to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 The battery terminal pullers don't have enough room for crankshafts on most engines as the legs are not long enough; especially ASP or SC that have a very long threaded section .There are some pullers on eBay that are perfect for prop driver cost about £6 ish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TartanMac Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 I borrowed a small Bergen puller to take off the prop driver on my Moki 61LS it had an abnormally tight fit and has a large cone on it. It took a lot of pressure but came off easy with the Bergen arbour bearing puller he removed his saito FA40 prop driver with it also it did not really mark it up either and the puller jaws are quite fine but very strong worth a look at least they make a few sizes I used the small I think. I will be buying one for myself in the future. Quicker and easier than heating the alloy up wrap a piece of leather and it probably won't mark it at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merco 61 Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 Raid the wife's washing basket and take two beechwood clothes pegs.Discard springs and use the four remaining wedges to insert between crankcase and prop driver.Lightly tap in tight with small hammer,then just keep tapping until driver is gently levered off.It will not gall the metal like a metal tool most certainly will. Heating will only help with an all aluminium driver,many have a brass bushing so heat not so effective.Emphasise,just tap the wood,not any metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 Posted by Engine Doctor on 01/10/2017 10:06:05: The battery terminal pullers don't have enough room for crankshafts on most engines as the legs are not long enough; especially ASP or SC that have a very long threaded section .There are some pullers on eBay that are perfect for prop driver cost about £6 ish. Please check out these pix, then decide if you can trust this poster's advice. This last pic shows the noses of an sc 61 on the left and a saito 82 on the right. The other two pix show the puller in position ready to pull the prop drivers off. Couple of caveats, always, but always leave the prop nut on screwed out of the way of the puller, apply heavy pressure and then tap the end of the screw with a small hammer which will cause the driver to fly off, hence why you should leave the nut in place. I have pulled the drivers off both the above engines plus a saito 125, ys 110 fz, ys 45 2 stroke, sc 15, irvine 72 and one each of a laser 70 and 80 with no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 Posted by Braddock, VC on 01/10/2017 19:24:27: Posted by Engine Doctor on 01/10/2017 10:06:05: Please check out these pix, then decide if you can trust this poster's advice. I think that's a little strong - ED has a long history of posting on engine related matters and has a wealth of knowledge that I would hesitate to question. Perhaps all terminal pullers are not equal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 Posted by Braddock, VC on 01/10/20 Please check out these pix, then decide if you can trust this poster's advice. This poster does try to offer helpful advice and many terminal pullers DONT have the capacity to accept the crankshaft. Your puller obviously does but even that is at its limit from the pics you posted. Perhaps you should give details ,make etc of your puller . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 Posted by Engine Doctor on 02/10/2017 20:53:07: Posted by Braddock, VC on 01/10/20 Please check out these pix, then decide if you can trust this poster's advice. This poster does try to offer helpful advice and many terminal pullers DONT have the capacity to accept the crankshaft. Your puller obviously does but even that is at its limit from the pics you posted. Perhaps you should give details ,make etc of your puller . Read my second post above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 to save any hassle,why not call in at a local garage and have a crack with someone...bet they have a puller that'll do the job for you..... for the price of a pint... ken Anderson...ne....1...puller dept. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 As I read it, ED was merely pointing out that the battery puller has its limitations - he wasn't impugning your character and I think you've taken offence where none was intended, Braddock. There are always alternatives offered in threads asking for advice. Clearly, your suggestion works for you. The OP will make up his own mind, I'm sure. Meanwhile, let's all be nice to each other, eh? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Posted by Braddock, VC on 26/09/2017 22:49:53: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht436-battery-terminal-bearing-puller/ this should be a link to it. Thanks for that useful link - I've been looking for something similar for a while! ED - if you have some alternatives, perhaps you'd like to 'put up'... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Posted by Mike T on 03/10/2017 20:54:02: Posted by Braddock, VC on 26/09/2017 22:49:53: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht436-battery-terminal-bearing-puller/ this should be a link to it. Thanks for that useful link - I've been looking for something similar for a while! ED - if you have some alternatives, perhaps you'd like to 'put up'... As requested . This one at £4.34 or even cheaper this one at £3.78 inc postage . Edited By Engine Doctor on 04/10/2017 10:31:36 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 That looks the business! My weapon of choice is adapted from a bearing puller - cost £0 as I already had it for other duties but it will shift the most stubborn taper with consumate ease! Braddock VC - it might pay to use the crankshaft nut to protect the end of the crankshaft thread - the nut will still prevent any parts being distributed around the workshop or into parts of your anatomy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TartanMac Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Posted by Engine Doctor on 04/10/2017 10:27:25: Posted by Mike T on 03/10/2017 20:54:02: Posted by Braddock, VC on 26/09/2017 22:49:53: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht436-battery-terminal-bearing-puller/ this should be a link to it. Thanks for that useful link - I've been looking for something similar for a while! ED - if you have some alternatives, perhaps you'd like to 'put up'... As requested . This one at £4.34 or even cheaper this one at £3.78 inc postage . Edited By Engine Doctor on 04/10/2017 10:31:3 The first one is very much like the Bergen one I mentioned I don't know the quality of the £4.34 one but it looks the same the second one looks bad at the jaws. The my dad payed £14 for both the small and the larger version so that price is about right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Never needed a hub puller on any FS engine I've dismantled. Small blowtorch on the drive hub always released it. And yes you can trust my advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TartanMac Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 I never needed one either stripped a lot of engines in the past using a blow torch aswell but then I got a second hand Saito 1.80 and a moki 61LS and there was no way it was coming off even with a lot of heat and a hammer. After using a puller I have to say it is a lot quicker and easier to get the engine apart and on my West engines I don't want to ruin the anodizing great tool and at the price it costs a good investment will last a lifetime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Posted by Engine Doctor on 04/10/2017 10:27:25: As requested . This one at £4.34 or even cheaper this one at £3.78 inc postage . Edited By Engine Doctor on 04/10/2017 10:31:36 They look useful - thanks. I'd probably go for the slightly more expensive, but more refined versions also listed. I'm not averse to using heat, but unless you're replacing bearings, proceed with caution or you may damage the seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TartanMac Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 I ended up buying that slightly more expensive one and it works just like the bergen one not exactly the same a good puller though worth the money. Took the prop driver off my mvvs 90 with near to no pressure at all without heat much quicker than any other way and great at keeping the bearing seal good. Very happy this is 35mmx45mm and as you can see it fits my Webra 91 P5 which is bigger than my mvvs 90. I will say the bergen one was better quality and the jaws did not have 90 degree corners but I suppose I can file them a little. But nice fine thread to make things easy. Edited By TartanMac on 10/01/2018 17:47:12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted July 5, 2018 Share Posted July 5, 2018 In need of a puller to remove the prop driver from my ASP 91FS I turned to the ever helpful forum & chose one of the pullers suggested by Engine Doctor.....it arrived today & had the prop driver off in a trice so thanks for the tip ED... As mentioned the threaded portion of the ASP crank is very long & the puller was pretty much on the limit but it worked just fine & removed the driver with a satisfying crack as the collet came free... I will just share with you the back of the packet it came in as it's the best example of Chinglish I've seen for a very long time.... Enjoy The bit you can't read at the top under the sticker says " Two Grasping Rama"....nope me neither.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted July 5, 2018 Share Posted July 5, 2018 Rams? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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