Another newbie

[Peter Goldsmith]

Hello everyone, not quite so new to the hobby, just over a year, but up till now only flying foamies highwing models, funcub etc, just bought second hand sebart angel s 30 and would like to ask what is the best way to detune the plane so I can learn to fly it without breaking it . Would it be enough to just reduce the throws on the control surfaces and or dual rate and expo. many thanks for any advice. Peter

[Josip Vrandecic -Mes]

It's nice to have new members coming to our forum...Welcome Peter .
I see you fly a some foamies highwing models, so it would be enough for you to start a Sebart, with a note at first a little high altitude and no acrobatics. As for the setting up of the control surfaces I do not like a detuning , because ,for instance,when you learn to drive a car does not set us up for a beginner ... so ... happy flying.

Note: Of course it is good to have wingman person near you... for the first your Sebart flight.

Greetings from Adriatic Sea.

[Cuban8]

Hi Peter and welcome. Probably the best way forward is to follow the settings given in the manual for the low rate settings on page 22 **LINK**

Even they might seem a bit lively for your first flight, so you might be wise to set up another  rate of say 25% less and see how the model goes. Very rarely do you ever have not enough movement to keep the model safe, but too much can lead to a whole world of hurt.

CG is given as 140-150mm back from the LE at the fuz junction - balance at no further back than 140mm for your first flight, maybe another 5mm further forward. Keep the power settings low for the first few flights & keep the model fairly close in and gradually build up as you get used to the model. Tune the throws to your own liking which will be totally personal to you. Good luck and enjoy it.

 

 

Edited By Cuban8 on 17/12/2017 12:13:20

[Alan H]

I've got several Sebart models, they are very good quality and use lightweight construction (and therefore somewhat fragile). I would suggest having modest control throws and checking that the CG is either at or just in front of the recommended position. I think you will find the Angel easy to fly and as Josip says don't try any aerobatics, at least until you've got a few flights under your belt with it. The biggest risk of damage is with landing accidents so don't hesitate to go around again if your a bit high, fast or not lined up.

[J D 8]

HI Peter and welcome. You may well find that this type of model is quite straight forward to fly,[ flying tidy good manouvers is another thing and takes practice ] they very much go where you point them and keep going that way until the next control input.

I would dial in some expo [30%] and give it a go. Good luck.

[Colin Carpenter]

Hi Peter - welcome ! My Angel is my favourite aircraft. Just use the lower rate settings or a bit less. Say 10-15% expo as a start. It is a benign aircraft and will land itself if set up correctly in the approach. Start on low settings , have a 2nd rate setting available on tx incase .😁 Enjoy it 😉 Colin

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

If you use expo, just make sure you're clear about the direction it's applied - positive for the majority but Futaba (at least) needs negative values to slow responses around the centre. Setting it in the wrong sense makes for "interesting" flight characteristics!

[Peter Goldsmith]

Thank you all for your welcome greetings and advice. I wont be flying the angel until at least the spring, so have time time play with adjustments. I bought a Futaba T14 with the model and its already programmed in but the guy is an expert flyer, so I will take all advice on board and give it a try, once again thanks. (ps, its good to chat here in english as although I live in Germany my german is not top notch)

[Peter Goldsmith]

Hi all, another probably silly question, I have another similar , cheaper, older model to the sebart that I will practice with first, while setting up servos with Spektrum DX6i and orange servo, I could not get the rudder servo to center without using 90% sub trim, is this normal or am I missing something, I have tried repositioning the arm on the servo but that onjly gave more movement to one side than the other. Could it be that the servo is defect or the reciever

[Denis Watkins]

The servo internal wiper can wear the track and make poor contact as this is where the assembly spends most of its time centred.

Try another servo to be sure, or use a servo tester to see the actual movement.

A repair can be effective, but this risks damaging the servo further and reducing confidence in it working

Most modellers swap out that servo as damaged

[The Wright Stuff]

Hi Peter,

If I understand you correctly, the servo goes to the correct centre position (arm at exactly 90 degrees to the model length) when the stick is in the middle, but the rudder is not central.

If this is the case, you need to lengthen or shorten the rod connecting the servo to the rudder horn. Without seeing the linkage, it's difficult to describe exactly how to do this, but it usually involves adjusting the screw where the control rod connects to the control snake/inner linkage...

Does this make sense?

[Peter Goldsmith]

Thank you again for your replies, but like I said it was a silly question, I have since found out that the control sticks on the actual transmitter were out of calibration, recalibrated and now is all is ok. I think I will now have to go and check the settings for my other models as they are probably now not in the right position. Learning by doing I think its called. Ho Hum

[Devcon1]

Welcome to the forum Peter.

Can't add anything to the solid advice already given so enjoy your new models.

[Peter Goldsmith]

Hi all again, the above problem I have sorted, now for something different. Been trying to set up a futaba T14 transmitter with frsky TFR8SB receiver, binding has worked but which port should the connection from the esc plug into, tried using the same method as for spektrum, but the motor just keeps playing music, (beeping) and how do I identify which channel does what between transmitter and receiver. Seems the futaba is a lot more complicated than the spektrum, but I am told it is much more reliable, Thanks in advance for any help

Peter

[Denis Watkins]

This is not just the Futaba Peter

What can happen is the ESC senses full throttle, as the throttle is reversed, and quite rightly, it does not start up

Reverse the throttle

Also, if the throttle is the right way round, then trim this right down too

[Peter Goldsmith]

Thanks Denis, that makes sense, Ill give that a try, so would I be right to use port or channel 1 on the receiver so that then gives power supply and control over the motor speed?

[Don Fry]

Peter, take the prop off before you do alterations. Avoid blood on the model. Adds weight.

[Denis Watkins]

Posted by Peter Goldsmith on 28/01/2018 18:22:10:

Thanks Denis, that makes sense, Ill give that a try, so would I be right to use port or channel 1 on the receiver so that then gives power supply and control over the motor speed?

 

The ESC speed control goes into throttle channel

Should be channel 3

The power for the motor comes through from your battery pack, on the black and red leads

The 3 wires at the other end are your 3 motor wires

Edited By Denis Watkins on 28/01/2018 19:24:13

[Peter Goldsmith]

Hello all, another probably easy question for you, I have been flying my second hand cheapy sebart lookalike with limited success (repaired and still flies) Original prop was 12x6 and I fly with a 12x5, my question is what is the difference in performance between the two props using the same motor, battery etc, would the 12x6 give more speed for the same throttle position or would it just load the motor more and draw more amps and reduce the speed of the motor. This question is just so I can better understand the difference between thrust and torque. I am not interested in doing fancy aerobatics at the moment just simple flying and safe landings. Thanks in advance for any advice.

[John Muir]

Hi Peter,

The 12x6 will rev a little slower, draw more current and fly the plane a little faster.

The 12x5 will rev a little faster, therefore producing more thrust, meaning your aircraft will accelerate better especially from standstill or low speeds, but will produce a slightly slower top speed under power. The amps will be slightly lower because the prop loads the motor less.

The differences probably won't be huge though and it depends on the plane which will be best. Draggy, slow airframe, 12x5, sleek and fast, 12x6. Also depends on your personal preferences. Lower amps is easier on the battery too, so worth considering. Don't know if torque effects will be very different. I suppose because the 12x5 is turning a little faster torque effects might be a bit more pronounced, but I'd be surprised if it was noticeable. If you were going from, say, a 12x8 to a 12x5, it would be another story.

John.

[Geoff S]

A low or fine pitch on a propeller is a bit like a low gear on a car - lots of acceleration but not much top speed. High pitch equals a high gear with more top speed. I doubt if you'd notice the difference between a 12x6 and a 12x5 but if you make a significant change (as John suggests from 12x5 to 12x8) then it would very wise to check the current draw with a wattmeter to avoid drawing more current than either the esc or motor can tolerate.

Geoff

[Nigel R]

"The 12x5 will rev a little faster, therefore producing more thrust, "

This is a typo I think?

The 12x5 will produce less thrust and a lower top speed.

But will accelerate the model quicker.

The difference to a 12x6 will not be that great. If you have enough power on the 12x5 and you like how it flies then stick with it.

[John Muir]

Quite right. With a pitch difference of only 1'' the rpm change probably won't be enough to offset the thrust lost due to the pitch reduction. Sorry 'bout that.

[Peter Goldsmith]

Ok, thanks all,

[Peter Goldsmith]

Hi everyone, been a while now and getting on ok with flying, (and repairing) have not yet flown the Angel but been practicing with a smaller version. So my question, just bought a used sebart sebach 342, from a guy at a model flea market/swap meet, just needs a bit of polishing to make it look good. The guy told me he flew using 4s 2600 lipo, I was just wondering as after looking on the internet it seems the original spec is for a 3s, however I think I have a bigger motor in mine. the setup is as follows, Planet-Hobby Joker 4250-6 840KV motor, Eflite 60 Amp Pro SB, esc driving a 13x6.5 prop. before I make a twit of myself at the field, (too cold and snowing at the moment) does anyone have any thoughts on this setup re amps watts etc etc.

Happy new year From Germany

Peter