Ron Gray Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 I was thinking of 4S 3000mAh but will try it out with 3S 2200 first as I have a stack of those already and that will give me some idea about carrying extra weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 Looked through my UC spares draw and the smallest retracts I have are 21mm deep, will measure up the wing thickness when it arrives tomorrow. Failing that, I may well copy you Bob, not for the first time, and add s ply UC plate to the fus, I have a spare alloy UC off a HK Estrella that may well do the job, complete with spats! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Posted by Ron Gray on 03/01/2018 23:03:28: I was thinking of 4S 3000mAh but will try it out with 3S 2200 first as I have a stack of those already and that will give me some idea about carrying extra weight. Good plan Ron. I've got some 4S 3300mAh somewhere, but I'm thinking that might be a step too far in weight. Anyway, with my flying skills I reckon 4 or 5 minutes in the air with the ES2 will be all I can cope with!! Tim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Mine's just arrived! Measured up the wing thickness and there's not really enough room to fit retracts, well not the ones I have in my spares drawer, as it is only 22mm thick at the root. So will copy what Bob has done and make provision for fixed U/C although, initial flights may well be 'toss and boss'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 ES 2 Tundra version? I'm going to try mine on Turnigy 40C 3S 3000, they are a nice fit for width. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 We are fortunate in having a tarmac surface to fly off, and a grass strip (for full size use) to bring in belly landers. Plus the access roads to the strip are hard surfaced albeit a bit bumpy! @Bob, those batts look good, these are the ones I was looking at 4S 3000mAh Edited By Ron Gray on 04/01/2018 13:06:26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 Chances are that by the time I get out flying again the grass will be dry and nicely manicured with temperatures up above 14C. My winter warrior days are long gone! Ron, those are only 1mm wider than mine and several mm shorter so they should be an easy if close fit. I do wish HK would publish the pack's weight rather than the freight weight including packaging. Edited By Bob Cotsford on 04/01/2018 13:20:03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 In agree with you Bob, when I look at the batts I would really like to know their actual weight, I've bought plenty on the basis of their advertised weight but when I get them and put them on the scales they are very rarely as advertised, some are more, some are less. I think that I will risk it with these ones though and get a couple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 A quick question chaps: Have you had any problems with fitting the cowl? First of all my kit seems to be missing the cowl rails. No problem really - I've fabricated my own. But..... I've used the exact recommended motor (Quantum II) and the cowl seems a good 5 to 6 mm too long, i.e. to get the clearance on the spinner backplate I'd need to be pushing the cowl right back over the fuselage (in fact it won't comfortably go that far back - it binds on the fuse corners). Am I missing something here? Tim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 I'm going to be measuring my setup tonight but as I'm not using a Quantum motor I'm not too sure how useful my info would be. My motor is a Propdrive 35-48 whereas I think the Quantum is a 35-42. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Carpenter Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Tim. I haven't got one but clubmate has. His cowl is the same with the recommended motor . Rails missing too ! He is working away on it with a few niggles he says. I wonder if radiusing the motor box corners will help ? Seagull cowls need a lot of work here sometimes ! Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 OK Ron, noted. Colin, that's very interesting! Sounds like a batch went out without the cowl rails then! I think it binds on the corners of the fuselage rather than the motor box, though I might be wrong there. Everything else with the model has gone really well too! Tim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 Posted by Tim Kearsley on 04/01/2018 15:12:32: A quick question chaps: Have you had any problems with fitting the cowl? First of all my kit seems to be missing the cowl rails. No problem really - I've fabricated my own. But..... I've used the exact recommended motor (Quantum II) and the cowl seems a good 5 to 6 mm too long, i.e. to get the clearance on the spinner backplate I'd need to be pushing the cowl right back over the fuselage (in fact it won't comfortably go that far back - it binds on the fuse corners). Am I missing something here? Tim. Tim, mine was missing the rails too, I used ply offcuts to replace them. I'm using a non-descript (literally, there's no markings on it!) 3542 motor and the cowl needs 'easing' back over the fuselage a good 5 or 6mm. The fuselage lower corners have assumed the shape of the cowl, little unwillingly but gentle wiggling got the cowl back far enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Thanks Bob, sounds exactly like what I'll have to do too. I also made myself some rails with ply. Right, better get back in the workshop and do some wiggling! Tim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Did a trial fit of motor and cowl, it looks like I’m lucky in that it all lines up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Lucky indeed Ron! I've ended up relieving a very small amount of material off each lower fuselage corner and now the cowl goes back far enough without undue pressure. The one remaining niggle I now have is that I can't tighten the prop because the spinner backplate is slipping on the motor! This last 1% of the assembly is causing 90% of the problems! Tim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Do you mean you can't tighten the prop nut due to the taper slipping? If so, a simple trick that I've done on problem prop drivers is to cut a slot in the end then hold it still with a screwdriver whilst you tighten the nut. If I've misunderstood then apologies! I managed to find a couple of NewPower 17 servos in my servo drawer plus a couple of 16 MGs. Whilst I'm no fan of NewPower servos, these are new, so the 17s will go in the fus for the rudder and elevator and the 16s in the wings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 I would be very wary of using 16mg`s. They have a built in problem with the pot. centre shaft not making a proper contact due to inferior materials. Same set up as Hitecs but theirs work. Just ask me how I know this. Bin them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 The battery floor is back in, I've fitted a 40A FrSky current sensor and that had to go below the floor with a short XT60 extension bringing the battery plug back up within reach. The model may be 10% bigger than the original but modern electronic sensors, high current esc and bigger batteries soon fill it up. The next job will be to charge up the batteries and play with props to see what suites the mystery kv motor. I don't know how well the witness marks will show up but the bottom sheet has adopted the cowl's lower corner radius for about 6mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 AUW with 3S 3000 40C pack, voltage and current sensors and prepped for fitting an undercart later = 3lbs or 1.359 kg or 48oz. With the battery right the way forward it's balancing 73mm from the L/E at the fuselage. I guess without the extra ply, sensors and with a 3S 2200 you could save about 4oz/100ish gms. As it is I'm about 3oz above Ripmax's spec max weight. If I prop it for 350-400W it should be fine as I'm not after hotliner performance. Not with my reactions and eyesight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Put the completed model on the scales this afternoon. Without LiPo it's 1055g (2.32lb). I'll be using 4S 2350 mAh batteries which will come in around 270g I think. So the AUW will be about 1325g (2.92lb). Tim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted January 6, 2018 Author Share Posted January 6, 2018 Not my best of days, I started by connecting my current sensor to the SBus port instead of the Smartport connector on the receiver and by the time I'd worked out what I'd done the sensor had fried. Luckily I had another sensor spare! After swapping sensors my Tx tells me that this motor is showing 428W at around 38A with the Aerostar 10*5E prop. I guess it's a 1400kv motor as David got 370W with a 1200kv motor on a 10*7. That should do me quite nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 I ran a full power test on the ES2 this afternoon. Battery was a 4S, 2450 mAh, peak power was 766 Watts, and peak current 49.4A. The final AUW I measured at 2.94lb, so we're looking at 260 W/lb. I don't think it will hang around! Tim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 Christ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.