Jump to content

F-86A Sabre Montana Air National Guard


Recommended Posts

Hi All, Firstly - thankyou to Martin Gay and Gordon Studley for the planning, design, production and general "effort" that has led to us obtaining our F-86 PSS kits. Also many thanks to Phil Cooke for his detailed work in supporting and promoting this mass build 2020 project.

I've decided to attempt the scheme shown below for my F-86. Its a USAF F-86A of the Montana ANG, target tug, circa 1955 at Nellis AFB.

 

Profile view:

montana ang f-86.jpg

Model kit (not by me!)

sabre2.jpg

Edited By Harry Twist on 29/10/2019 22:25:31

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Advert


Off we go! Its Nov 1st, so, being a miser I've turned over my piece of plasterboard building board and rescrewed it down on the other (clean!) side. I've then spent a little time making a start on the F-86. I started by fettling the wing jig sub pieces, just minor trimming needed. Then I cut up the wing plan sheet and then added extended lines for the ribs and wing spars. Once done I assembled the wing jig sub pieces and then finally assembled the wing jig, on the covered plan, carefully ensuring it all sat square and flat on the bench. I did add some triangular support as suggested by Martin in his gamma build.

Couple of shots...

img_20191101_215510102.jpg

img_20191101_215522295.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi All, got a little more done over the weekend. Once dried, the wing jig was carefully removed from the plan and stored. Right and left lower wing sheets were then made up. Careful cutting gets one wing panel from 2 x 3"x 36" lengths. These were joined by the "tape on the back, fold along the tape line, glue in the fold, then unfold, wiping any excess away and adding weights to the new panel whilst drying" method. Once the panel was dry the rib and spar locations were added and the lower spruce spar cut and glued in location. Finally, I looked at a method for adjusting the spar slots in the ribs to get the correct spar/rib angle at the base. A simple jig to hold the rib made from scrap balsa and two clothes pegs helped! Photos below...

img_20191102_171338705.jpg

img_20191103_114412370.jpg

img_20191103_214744986_hdr.jpg

 

Edited By Harry Twist on 03/11/2019 23:57:11

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi All, Over the last couple of nights I have pushed the wings on a little more. Both lower skins now made, with centre spars and false TE's added - and whilst drying I sat them, with weights on, in the wing jig to "train" the balsa to the anticipated curve. Each rib was them trimmed to the correct angle for the top and bottom spars and the false TE, simple angle jigs helped this. The wing jig was then relocacted into position over the plan on the building board and although square, it was lifting a little in places - so the solution involved a few moulding pins and a small hammer and then gently nailing it to the building board!

With the wing skin sat in the jig I did notice that there was a gap between the underside of the wing skin and R1 - whereas all the other ribs sat neatly. To force the skin down onto R1 would have created a largish step form R1 to R2. So to remove this step/gap I glued a piece of scrap wing sheet balsa over the top of the twin R1 centre braces in the jig - this took up the gap and the wing sits much better now at the root.

Next stage was to locate the ribs in their final position and glue them. (the false TE was located prior to any ribs going in). To keep the skin "in the seat" I sat weights between each rib as I glued, and finally placed a piece of waste spruce in the slot on the top of the ribs and weighted down on this.

So as of tonight - I have located all the ribs on the right wing apart from R1. As an additional aid to keeping the rib leading edges located on the sheet I wedged a piece of 1" triangle below the front of the sheet.

Photos....offer better explanations than my words!

 

Additional strip over R1 area- indicated by blue pen

img_20191105_175013810_hdr.jpg

 

Weighted between ribs

img_20191105_181434037_hdr.jpg

Right wing ribs glued in situ

img_20191105_192727229_hdr.jpg

 

Rib leading edge trimming jig

img_20191105_200234654_hdr.jpg

Edited By Harry Twist on 05/11/2019 22:17:00

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Really enjoying reading all the F-86 blogs, it's great that some people have started wing first and others fus first. Bit more progress on wings, false leading edges and hinge blocks added. Main work this weekend however has involved cutting, sizing and fitting the shear webs.

Enjoying the build, thanks again Martin and Gordon

img_20191110_214843667_hdr.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi All, I have been slowly inching the Sabre along a bit more.

After a bit of thinking and head scratching I've decided that the drop tanks are so much a feature of the Sabre that I wanted to try to incorporate them into the build. Since they would be damaged easily on landing I'm planning for them to be jettisonable. So using a 1:72 Airfix model I have tried to scale up the location on the wing and the size of the tank and pylon to suit a 1:10 model. Disclaimer(!) - these are my kitchen table/ pen and pencil numbers and may not be 100% scale accurate! I reckon the tank pylon sits midway between R8 and R9, or 30cm from the centreline. The tank itself is approx 34.5cm long and 6.5cm in diameter at its widest. (its basically a torpedo shape with fins and a flattened top, although there is more than one tank type!).

So leaving the tank detail and construction until later, I have added the first part of a delivery system to the wings (basically I have copied John Heys proven method from the PSSA A4 mass build - thanks John!). Its a central servo driving a piano wire pushrod to the chosen location, the end of the rod push/ pulls through a hole in the pylon/keel of the tank. It did take some time to set it up - and you need to put holes through all those lovely ribs, it has also meant chopping away a portion of the front of the two R1 ribs to accomodate a servo location.

The wings were then planed and sanded to approaching a near finish state, although the top skins have not yet been added. I have now set them aside temporarily and moved onto the fuselage.

Drop tank location and size - ( ignore right hand location/ image of tank- I had a plan and elevation view on the same piece of paper and simply laid it below the wing, left hand tank drawing is "in location" between R8 and R9).

img_20191112_162620722_hdr.jpg

Tank delivery system- straw for support, plastic tubing either end, slightly larger internal diameter than piano wire diameter- sliding fit.

img_20191117_175503095_hdr.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, taking a breather from the wings, it was time to make a start on the fuselage. First job was to tickle all the surfaces with fine sandpaper removing any loose particles and hopefully create a slight key for surface jointing. I then laid out each piece with its partner and checked for symmetry ( I also went a little over the top and labelled, in pen, all the left pieces with a discrete little "x" and all the right with a little "y". In addition I measured the longitudinal parts for equal length for left and right sides (F14 and f15). All was good here.

I then dry fitted all the parts I could, a little work was needed here and there to ensure a good fit on some slots but no great issues were found. Subsequently I have started to assemble of some of the "sub structures" ( the central overwing block of three formers and F14, plus the tail block of F9, F15, and F10, they're all basically 90 degree joints.

Once all the sub assemblies are complete, I'll locate all on the plan, add the keels and do a full fit before gluing.

Some progress shots below.

 

Parts laid out - I subsequently turned the upper fuselage plan around 180 degrees to be the right way up, so now building both halves the right way up ( I could'nt cope with upside down and reversed, I was bound to make a mistake!).

img_20191031_131643021.jpg

 

Sub assembly 90 deg jointing, left side shows central crutch, F7 previously jointed at top, F4 under weights, F6 not yet glued in position. Right side shows rear sub assemblies F9 previously jointed, F15, F10 under weights.

Clearly they're not sat in situ on the plan (!) since they're 90 degree joints I chose to sit the former flat on the build board  and build upwards ensuring 90 degree joint with the longitudinal formers F14 and F15) and adding weights to the laid flat former. Then once dry turn the whole thing over ( like an egg timer) to glue the opposite former. They will be located  on the plan later.

img_20191117_163912902_hdr.jpg

Nose area - a sub assembly in itself

img_20191118_181305120_hdr.jpg

 

 

Edited By Harry Twist on 18/11/2019 21:22:58

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Steve, one servo - sat at the centre, it will only make one movement per flight, pulling two lightweight piano wires around 5mm (one wire per wing). Not decided on the servo yet, but it will be a light one! Pushrod geometry, nothing complex hopefully, 90 degree bends taking the pushrod up to the servo. Each pushrod end then located into opposite ends of a servo arm. There's more detail in the John H A4 build - thanks Martin for the link.

Edited By Harry Twist on 19/11/2019 23:34:24

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi All, I've moved the fuselage on a little, well one half of it anyway!

I cut the spines from sheet and decided to cut them slightly oversize at 8mm x 3mm. This was to ensure that the very top of the formers sat on the spine and not slightly below it. I used the straight top spine as the starting point, pinning it to the plan and ensuring all the touching formers sat in location and square. I then pinned, clamped, glued and weighted the combined nose unit / central crutch / top spine and the tail unit. Once dry I added the curving bottom keel as one piece, curved and pinned. Again, once all dry I added the F3 F5 formers and the longitudinal stringers. So for me, the fuselage framework ended up as a three stage assembly process.

I did have an issue with the lower stringer, which at full length along the curve just about sat on F1 and F10, but not enough for me to be happy that it was secure front and back, so I scarf jointed a piece in, with the joint sat on the double former F4/F4a. The other two stringers were fine.

Now onto the planking, prior to planking I sanded gently to ensure all the stringers sat flush with the formers. I've cut my planks 7mm wide, parallel full length and have so far added 4 planks. I'm taking my time over this - trying to align the planks carefully and trying to visualise how it will look.

It's great to see and read all the ideas, guidance and sharing of information that's going on in the Sabre build blogs.

Happy building!

 

Bare framework completed - one half only

img_20191121_111536000_hdr.jpg

 

Short scarf joint at F4/F4A- the dark lines at the former /keel joints are not gaps they're blue pen ink lines delineating the locating/gluing boundary!

img_20191121_112109190_hdr.jpg

Long view - curving keel, one piece of 8mm x 3mm.

img_20191121_112124910_hdr.jpg

 

First planks - plank width here is 7mm, planks parallel nose to tail.

img_20191123_221034752_hdr.jpg

 

 

Edited By Harry Twist on 23/11/2019 23:43:32

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted by Steve McLaren on 19/11/2019 21:11:53:

What size servo do you plan to use? and does 1 servo do both tanks? I'm trying to visualise the geometry of pushrods meeting the servo.

I used a Hitech HS65mg servo for the drop tanks on the A4 Skyhawk. I located the servo in one wing (so you don't have to cut into R1). Bend the pushrod (or pullrod !) diagonally up to exit the wing skin with one side going to the "front" and other side going to the "back" of the servo horn. I initially fit the wire before putting in ribs R1 and the ones outboard of the mounting - means you can slide it in and out of position while messing about trying to get the "line" and bend.

Hopefully the pictures make sense of above comments - holes in ribs reinforced with 1/32 ply.

a4-11.jpga4-21.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great progress already, Harry. smiley

Thank goodness, I don't have any external fuel tanks installed to my 'Dog' version, but then I do have enough pondering with the fuselage mods...

Looking at the background of one of your pics, I noticed that you have been 'lightening' your battery box as well, héhé... wink

Cheers

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi All, I've moved the fuselage on a little more. I have been worried about the major "glue up" required to join two part planked fuselage halves in one go. This involves, applying glue along all the major joint lines of the top and bottom spines, and along all the former joint lines, gluing and fitting the wing bolt plate, then aligning and clamping, all  in one gluing "event". I did'nt trust myself to get this all square and had visions of glue everywhere and an out of line fuselage!

So I tried an alternative. I part finished one fuselage half to the point of adding 10 planks (7mm wide). I then built the second half, section by section, onto the part planked first half. I starting by adding the straight top keel, then worked front to back, adding each sub structure in turn and allowing drying between each stage. At the end I added the stringers and the small part bulkheads of F3 and F5.

Photos hopefully show all!

Nose and battery box added, after top keel

img_20191126_200506433_hdr.jpg

Central crutch and wing bolt plate, I adjusted the plate to move it back approx 5mm to sit against F7

img_20191127_114225654_hdr.jpg

 

Tail unit, clamps and more clamps

img_20191127_232103343_hdr.jpg

 

Last addition- lower curved spine

img_20191128_182251603_hdr.jpg

 

End product

img_20191129_185622427_hdr.jpg

Edited By Harry Twist on 29/11/2019 23:23:23

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...