Eric Robson Posted April 4, 2021 Share Posted April 4, 2021 Hi Geoff, I did not use the flaps as I did not have a long enough flite to see what would happen when deployed. by the time I had it trimmed and flying straight and level I wanted to check the battery as I am pulling a lot more juice than a Predator motor, as it happens I was down to 24%. Another thing was the hatch flew off not long after take off so no inverted flight. I had a word with Richard and he suggested air pressure as the hatch was a tight fit , I will look into that after I have repaired the U/C mount. Jonathan I think the screws would be better 6mm longer than the ones supplied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted April 4, 2021 Share Posted April 4, 2021 Eric, If the radiator under the nose is open the air needs somewhere to go. That's why I put the rear radiator door in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted April 4, 2021 Share Posted April 4, 2021 7 minutes ago, Paul Johnson 4 said: Eric where was the C of G? Hi Paul, mine balanced 10mm forward of the position shown on the plan. Sorry if you were deprived of a plan 90mm from the centre leading edge of the wing , any further back and I would have had to put some weight in the tail. Once trimmed it flew on rails very happy with it. I see on yours you had the magnets for the cowl in a different position, the cowl is very tight so if it is not pressure I may use velcro as I have done with the radiator intake and that stayed firmly in place even after sliding along the grass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted April 4, 2021 Share Posted April 4, 2021 Eric, Glad it came flew well and not much damage. Hopefully you can get her up again soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted April 4, 2021 Share Posted April 4, 2021 1 hour ago, Jonathan S said: Eric, Glad it came flew well and not much damage. Hopefully you can get her up again soon. I think it will be ready a long time before the next good flying weather appears Jonathan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 19 hours ago, Paul Johnson 4 said: Eric, If the radiator under the nose is open the air needs somewhere to go. That's why I put the rear radiator door in. Hi Paul, Richard suggested I do the same as you to ley the air out. Regarding the C of G mine is the 51D so it will have less weight behind the C of G than the B, I sheeted mine so it may be lighter than your planking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 21 hours ago, Jonathan S said: Eric sounds great. What size screws should we use for retracts... Perhaps they should be decking screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 6 minutes ago, Graham R said: Perhaps they should be decking screws. Mmm the term 'decking' ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 Probably applies to me. Since return from lockdown 2 take offs with my 12 year old Wot4 - 1 landing and ..?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 May be we should only use decking screws on carrier based aircraft. Hope that was not the very last landing Graham. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 At least it wasn't as bad as this lot... Decking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 Thanks for posting that Paul, I now know what I’ve always thought, my landings are true to scale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Jenkins Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 Nah, you're better than that Ron! Not sure I'd want to buy one of those aircraft after the RAN had finished flying them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 Richard did suggest the original screws could be used if two CSK screws were fitted between the mounting screw holes prior to fitting the retracts or if the packers are not yet fitted then under those. They would have to allow the retract or distance pieces to sit flat on the seating, the the supplied screws would then be ok to fasten the retracts down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 4 hours ago, Eric Robson said: May be we should only use decking screws on carrier based aircraft. Hope that was not the very last landing Graham. It was Eric , i'm sorry to say. Still trying to figure out what failed on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 I hope to finish the pinning the flaps this week. Next major job will be leading edge and wing tips. Can the team help with any recommendations on how best to get the required shape. Thanks Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 Hi Jonathan , I use a David plane followed by a sanding block going from course to fine and the Mk 1 eyeball. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted April 6, 2021 Share Posted April 6, 2021 Jonathan, this may help the P51 plan shows the shape at the wing root, that is the shape to follow along the wing it just gets smaller, follow the flow of the wing it should be a continuation of the sheet covering. As you see in the picture there is a steeper slope down from the top, just keep looking along the wing as you sand it down to make sure it is straight and when you get to the tip follow the flow sand it with the aileron in neutral the tip should match the aileron at the trailing edge. The plan is for a Hawker Tempest but the principle is the same it will be useful when you build your Warbirds Spitfire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted April 6, 2021 Share Posted April 6, 2021 16 hours ago, Eric Robson said: Hi Jonathan , I use a David plane followed by a sanding block going from course to fine and the Mk 1 eyeball. Eric, I have purchased a David Plane. and I had a quick go with it, Seems really nice. That picture you have just posted is excellent hopefully I can re-create that shape. I guess a similar thing has to be done on the tail and Horiz Stab. I am hoping that Richard is going to plan another single engine fighter which I can get stuck into. (Hint hint). Twins might be a bit big for my man cave. Really caught the build bug, I am having a lot of fun and learing so much thanks to you and Paul and the rest of the team. The next build I hope will be easier as not everything will be new and I will have learnt from some mistakes etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted April 6, 2021 Share Posted April 6, 2021 Nice to hear it's wet your appetite to build more. It adds a lot to your appreciation of your model, other than something you bolted together. You get to choose your colour scheme not only what is offered. Glad we can help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 Can I just quickly check, I have identified the parts in the photo correctly as the leading edge. It seems the same thickness as the long leading edge part, and is long enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 Yup ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 1 minute ago, Paul Johnson 4 said: Yup ? Thx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 (edited) Another question for the experienced builders here: When you shape the tail feathers, I'm clear on rounding the leading edge of the tailplane and fin, and putting a chamfered edge in place for the control surfaces to hinge properly, but is there a technique to achieving the much gentler taper for the control surfaces, i.e. the taper back to the trailing edge for the elevator halves and rudder? Or is it simply a Mark I eyeball job? I can see that it could be tricky to achieve an even taper. Edited April 7, 2021 by Tim Kearsley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 Tim, You only need the smallest of taper and can easily achieve that using a large flat sanding block. It doesn't need to taper back to a knife edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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