Jonathan S Posted March 15, 2021 Share Posted March 15, 2021 59 minutes ago, RICHARD WILLS said: You wont be modelling for Pretty Polly with those ankles . Just saying . Lol well maybe not Pretty Polly! But I bet there is some weird warbird fetish site somewhere on the Internet that likes a badly turned ankle in Big Beautiful Doll socks. Just need to keep looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 6 hours ago, Jonathan S said: Eric, Thanks for the feedback, do I sand /cut the sheet and the nobbly bits back to flush with the spar? Like this 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 30 minutes ago, Paul Johnson 4 said: Like this Paul, Thanks that is what I thought but was by no means 100%. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 Hi Jonathan. while drawing this Paul came up with the photo. remember to take a little chamfer at the top to allow the full movement up and down on the aileron. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 36 minutes ago, Paul Johnson 4 said: Raid the Mrs peg bag! Already have ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 Dozy question alert from a novice builder! I believe the rear and front decks are sheeted with 1.5mm balsa? The balsa sides which attach to the ply doublers are thicker balsa - about 3.5mm? Does this not leave a step between the side and the sheeted deck? Sorry if I'm missing something simple again! After the magnets debacle I'm scared to post here any more! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 Hi Tim, sand the sides down till they match the top sheets so that it gradually blends in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 Thanks Eric, that's fine. Without a lot of building experience to fall back on you sometimes worry that you've done something silly or simply not understood something! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 In the spirit of openness and a willingness to admit our mistakes I'll tell you of a mini disaster I had this afternoon. I was doing a dry run of joining the two wing halves. For some reason, the two halves wouldn't quite fit together, getting very tight with a quarter of an inch to go. In trying to ease them together I managed to put a finger straight through a wing skin!! What a plonker! I've already repaired it, and by the time the wing has its final sanding smooth it will be virtually invisible. Just shows though, you have to be on your guard all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 Rest assured Tim, you’re not the first to do that. It’s much more annoying when you (or somebody else!) does it after it’s been covered! Trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 It will all add to the character of the finished model, let's face it, after 1 mission they will have looked a bit beaten up anyway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 I am looking at the flaps now they are cut out. I have some basic questions that I could do with your collective thoughts on. Is Pauls method on the prototype still valid. Has everybody else had to cut a bit of R2 out to get the flaps back in? I cannot see a way of doing it without cutting R2 How do you fill the space you have cut out after the flaps are in place? (I was thinking a small bit of ply but is that best?) How much movement down should the flaps have? What is the gap between the flaps and the wing? I am sure there are 100 other questions I will have while doing this but thats where I am right now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted March 18, 2021 Author Share Posted March 18, 2021 "I am sure there are 100 other questions I will have while doing this but thats where I am right now" Always good to have a round number in mind Jonathan. I think we are going to need somebody sensible to answer these questions . But I can at least answer No3 while we are waiting . Its mostly air . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 6 hours ago, Jonathan S said: What is the gap between the flaps and the wing? Ah Richard, I was going to say 'mistake'! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 No.2 is easy.... that is dependent on how much glue you apply to the hinges. 55° or 0° 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 Thanks i think ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon McConnell Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 27 minutes ago, Jonathan S said: Thanks i think ?? Jonathan, I had to cut Rib 2 as per Paul's post on the subject. The cut-out in the laser cut Rib 2 does not allow the flap to be installed as the torque shaft clashes with the rib. I extended the cut-out rearwards just enough to to be able to juggle the flap into position. Once I knew I could get the flap positioned and how wide the cut-out needed to be, I made a re-inforcing plate from 2mm ply to glue onto rib 2 to stiffen up around the cut-out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted March 18, 2021 Author Share Posted March 18, 2021 Finally somebody sensible . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon McConnell Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 For the flaps gap with the wing, there is no gap on the top surface ( or bottom surface at hinges) as the clever designer (and his little helpers) have shaped the flap LE and hinge geometry to have a constant gap of zero mm during the 55 deg of travel??. Very smart, just like the real thing. I am wondering if the covering will cause the flap to foul the wing skin. We will see! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 4 minutes ago, Gordon McConnell said: For the flaps gap with the wing, there is no gap on the top surface ( or bottom surface at hinges) as the clever designer (and his little helpers) have shaped the flap LE and hinge geometry to have a constant gap of zero mm during the 55 deg of travel??. Very smart, just like the real thing. I am wondering if the covering will cause the flap to foul the wing skin. We will see! Put a small chamfer on the underside of the top wing sheeting where the flap moves under, this helps. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon McConnell Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 Thanks Paul. ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Some help needed from you more experienced builders please! I'm building the P51B version of the kit, with the razorback. When I sheeted the rear deck I have somehow (and I'm really not sure how) managed to end up with a "dent" in the starboard side, which I think you can see in the photo. I'm at a loss, frankly, to know how to rectify this. Any advice anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 I know that you may not want to hear this but I would remove that sheeting to see what the underlying problem is. If you don't you are always going to be looking at it and wishing you had tried to rectify it but without removing it, or at least pulling the top section away you won't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 To be honest, this is always a risk when wrapping thin sheeting over a structure with not a lot of supporting structure. I’m doing the P51D version and opted to plank the rear deck in 3/32” balsa rather that wrestling with a single sheet of 1/16”. I’m not saying that one approach is better than another in absolute terms but, with experience, you learn which methods work best for you. Trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted March 23, 2021 Author Share Posted March 23, 2021 Strange that Tim . Have you sealed up the bottom of the fuselage ? If not , you could put your finger through and push it out. It wont stay out of course , but if it looks right when you prod it .You can make little half former to wedge inside to maintain the shape . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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