Tim Kearsley Posted February 27, 2021 Share Posted February 27, 2021 Sorry for another newbie question: I'm about to cut out the wheel wells - should we be aiming to get the U/C doors fitting flush with the wing surface or lying on top of the surface? I know in the full-size aircraft the doors are flush, but is it a practical proposition to do that in a model? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 27, 2021 Share Posted February 27, 2021 Tim, The kit is designed to be with the doors closing onto the skin, mine is almost flush but I cut out the skin before the cutout pattern was sorted. It will be a lot easier to make them close onto the skin as this allows for small movement in the legs due to continued used without having to realign it all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted February 27, 2021 Share Posted February 27, 2021 Thanks Paul, that was my thought. I've had several ARTF models with retracting U/C and the slightest hint of a "heavy" landing made a perceptible bend in the U/C legs, sometimes enough to leave the wheel scraping the rear of the well when retracted into the wing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 27, 2021 Share Posted February 27, 2021 Tim If you think about it scale wise we are landing on a ploughed field! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted February 27, 2021 Share Posted February 27, 2021 Yes, very true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 Well, today I undertook the very scary task of cutting out the flap and aileron from the port wing. I won't pretend it was perfect, but overall I'm very pleased, and relieved! The cut line on the bottom of the flap was very slightly off line and I've had to do a tiny bit of correction work with the odd thin sliver of wood. That said, it's not noticeable now it's done and I've cut the hinge slots and tried the fit and it all works like a dream! I like this kit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 Tim Any chance of a photo or 3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 Making progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 Hi Jonathan, yes, I'll put up some pictures tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 A few photos to show where I'm at with this build. Port wing is a little more advanced than the starboard and now has the flap and aileron cut out. The wheel well is largely lined out and most of the leading edge and wing tip is shaped. Skinning the front, highly curved surface of the flap needs a bit of care and nice, damp balsa. You can see mine wrapped up in masking tape to keep the curve in while the aliphatic resin dries! The starboard wing is fully sheeted and the wheel well is cut out but needs lining. I found the U/C legs need very slightly bending towards the front of the wing to keep them away from the main spar. Next to do is to finish off the port wing leading edge and tidy up the flap and aileron. Then on the starboard wing, line the wheel well, add leading edge and wing tip, cut out the flap and aileron and tidy up. After that, I need to sort out the flap linkages and join the wings. Then we can start on the fuselage! I did a dry run with the flap hinges and I must say it works well. They will be properly fixed when the flap is covered of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted March 1, 2021 Author Share Posted March 1, 2021 Tidy work Tim . And a nice stool sample . Can we refer to you as "Tidy Tim " from now on ? BTW , I wont want the plan back , you've ruined its second hand value . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 The first instalment of my P51 build diary is now on my website at: http://www.bartonhewsons.uk/home/modelflying/scale/mustangprojectdi.html Tim, we seem to be at much the same stage with our builds. Trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 1 hour ago, RICHARD WILLS said: Tidy work Tim . And a nice stool sample . Can we refer to you as "Tidy Tim " from now on ? BTW , I wont want the plan back , you've ruined its second hand value . Thanks Richard. I always try to do my best with a stool sample ?. Well I've been referred to a lot as a lot worse than "Tidy Tim" in my time, so, yes, quite happy with that. Sorry about the plan! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 Quick question leading on from Tim's great photos and Paul's instructions on how to pin the ailerons and flaps. what order do you install them. I think I have to Cut out the flaps and Ailerons from the top and bottom sheets sheet the curve of the flaps Fit them in with the hinges and cocktail sticks but don't glue Cover Glue in place Have I got this right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 I think that's broadly correct Jonathan. I will hinge the flaps and ailerons when I've covered the entire model. I found you need to be quite careful when you sheet the curved front surface of the flaps. I damped some sheet balsa and curved it around a piece of ali tube 30mm in diameter and taped it in place and left it overnight. I then removed it, damped it again and tacked it at the top of the curved ribs with medium cyano and then glued it to the rest of the ribs with aliphatic. Even at that it cracked slightly and needed a slight repair with thin cyano. Just be careful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 I have yet to tackle that curved section on the front of the flaps but was thinking of doing it with two laminations of 1/32in balsa. I’ve used this method successfully on wing fillets when the curvature was too much for a single layer of 1/16. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 Tim, Do you pin them before or after covering again as this is my first build i am still working out the order most people have know for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 Well I'm a newbie too Jonathan - I've only completed one previous build! Personally, I think it's best to pin and glue after everything's covered. It does mean you have to disguise the pinning with covering film or whatever you use for covering though. Those more experienced might chip in here.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 I soaked the balsa for the flaps and taped it around a 20mm diam floor mop handle and left it overnight I did not have to dampen it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 Fair comment Eric. Perhaps I'll use a smaller diameter former when I do the other flap then, as my tube was 30mm diameter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 Tim, Can you post a couple of pics of your flaps with the covering as when the wheel wells are cut out that is my next job to cut and finish the flaps. Hopefully I will be doing that over the weekend as the Mrs is away and I don't have to watch Bridgeton or whatever is the flavour of the week. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 14 minutes ago, Jonathan S said: Tim, Can you post a couple of pics of your flaps with the covering as when the wheel wells are cut out that is my next job to cut and finish the flaps. Hopefully I will be doing that over the weekend as the Mrs is away and I don't have to watch Bridgeton or whatever is the flavour of the week. Jonathan Check out page 22. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 Paul, Thanks that is exactly what I needed. I was wondering where the sheeting needed to go down to and that shows it beautifully. I had looked at that many times but had not printed it for some reason. (I have taken to printing out certain posts and pics to suppliment my understanding so I dont have to keep going back to find them). I was going to create a word doc but just never find the time. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan p Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 Hi Chaps Just found a possible naughty on the cowl ply doubler. At the front where the 12mm cowl pieces fit appears to be 4mm too high and not matching the front former leaving the lid to high. 1677146892_Photos..zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon McConnell Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 Alan, I found the same thing. Rather than touch the ply doubler, I rebated the 12mm cowl rail to allow it to sit down to the correct height and engage with the front former notch. Seems to have worked out ok. Gordon 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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