Tim Donald Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 I just bought a tin of this solder paste to see if it makes soldering XT90 connectors any easier. I just noticed that it is listed as corrosive rather then the rosin type. I know this means it needs cleaning off with alcohol if used on circuit boards but the web site seems to suggest it's ok to use with non ferrous metals. Just wondering if anybody has tried it and if it is safe to use for soldering XT90 connectors? https://termopasty.pl/en/produkty/solder-paste/ Please don't lecture me on how flux isn't necessary blah blah blah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 Sorry, but if you're using cored lead/tin solder and a big enough soldering iron, additional flux isn't necessary. Certainly don't use acid flux on an electrical connection. Multicore was the go-to solder and they made Arax and Ersin cored solder. The Arax was acid flux to be used only on big mechanical soft soldering and Ersin was the one we used all the time for radio/TV repairs etc. Although I confess I sneaked in a short length of Arax to my soldering exam for my Radio Servicing certificate back in 1958 - just in case but didn't need it Geoff Edited By Geoff S on 23/10/2020 17:05:33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Chaddock Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 My view is that soldered 'power' electrical joints are more likely to fail due to being 'dry' or 'inadequate' than from flux corrosion at least as far as the life of my planes are concerned! I have used PowerFlow Paste for years on such joints (you can always stick a connector joint under the warm tap ) but always just a cored solder on circuit boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Donald Posted October 23, 2020 Author Share Posted October 23, 2020 Thanks Geoff and Simon. I'm using lead free solder. Just looking at the technical spec for the flux I've got - it's Rosin and organic halogen activator. I will sacrifice some plugs and do some testing I think, see how much difference it makes to my dodgy solder joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 The problem is that tinned wires are tinned with lead free solder.This is useless and will never give a good joint with our normal soldering irons. Cut off the short length with tinning and then just use normal cored solder. Edited By Peter Miller on 23/10/2020 18:16:48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 The best use for lead-free solder is for ballast weight. 60/40 flux cored unless you can get some silver bearing (not silver) solder which is even better for power connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 Posted by Tim Donald on 23/10/2020 17:39:32: Thanks Geoff and Simon. I'm using lead free solder. Just looking at the technical spec for the flux I've got - it's Rosin and organic halogen activator. I will sacrifice some plugs and do some testing I think, see how much difference it makes to my dodgy solder joints. As suggested dump the lead free solder it's rubbish for our use and needs higher temp to sort of flow. Ordinary cored 60/40 lead tin solder is best for home use . Buy a good brand like Multicore and use a decent iron. Tin both parts before joining and you won't have any trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Donald Posted October 23, 2020 Author Share Posted October 23, 2020 Thanks Peter, Martin and Engine Doc. If only I knew that. I've just found a little strip of solder from years ago (assume it is from the days before lead free) and it was so much easier. I did what you suggested and cut the tinned end off and started fresh. Still not perfect by any means but better. I will order some decent stuff and hopefully that will fix my problems. A bit gutted that I just spent £55 on a 100w Weller solder gun and it isn't really any better then then 50w iron / solder station that I already had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan Bennett Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 One key to successful soldering is the mass of the bit, perhaps more important than the wattage of the iron. My Antex iron (50W I think) has a range of interchangeable bits from 0.1mm to 6mm, and it meets alll my needs from undercarriages through Deans Ultra connectors to sufrace-mounted components on PCBs. I can see no advantage in a solder gun -- I had one once, but binned it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 Odd. I've had mine for over 50 years since getting it for a Christmas present as a teenager. I don't think the modern tips are as durable as the original plain copper ones but it seems to pump heat into a joint at a very credible rate and will easily solder the heaviest battery connectors I've tried it on. I have used an old fashioned flame heated lump of copper on a stick for in-line joining NiMH cell flight packs before the days of LiPos - one job that it wouldn't do but short of delicate electronics, the Weller does admirably for most of my soldering needs. Edited By Martin Harris on 23/10/2020 20:54:12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Donald Posted October 23, 2020 Author Share Posted October 23, 2020 You live and learn I guess. I do like that the gun heats up in 6 seconds though but it's definitely more clumsy then a iron. Just checking before I order - is this a good solder? https://cpc.farnell.com/multicore-loctite/x-39-60en-2c-1-2mm-s-500g/solder-wire-x39-18swg-500g/dp/SD02680 It's 60/40 with 2 core flux. I noticed all the multicore / Loctite ones on ebay are 5 core. Some look a bit dodgy so I would rather buy from CPC or similar and know it's genuine. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 Posted by Allan Bennett on 23/10/2020 20:32:15: One key to successful soldering is the mass of the bit, perhaps more important than the wattage of the iron. My Antex iron (50W I think) has a range of interchangeable bits from 0.1mm to 6mm, and it meets alll my needs from undercarriages through Deans Ultra connectors to sufrace-mounted components on PCBs. I can see no advantage in a solder gun -- I had one once, but binned it. Same here Allan - couldn't get on with it at all, but my pal Kev used to swear by his. Different strokes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 I use a 40 Watt Weller which does most jobs. I also have a 25 and 12 Watt iron. And then I still have my 75 Watt, Henley Solon iron bought in about 1954 and STILL working well even if it takes ages to heat up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Donald Posted October 25, 2020 Author Share Posted October 25, 2020 You must have magic powers that I don't have then Steve ! I have a decent 50W iron with a reasonably bit tip, a 100w solder gun with a big tip and it takes a good 10 seconds of holding either iron onto the xt90 connector or the fairly chunky wire to get unleaded solder to even melt. Then when both tinned, I can melt one or the other but not both. With the leaded solder it melts so much easier. I checked the specs, my lead free melts at 227 degrees and most leaded seems to melt at 180-183 degrees. Seems to make all the difference for me. Don't get me wrong - I can solder thin wire with lead free solder and no flux without issue but not XT90 connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 I can solder my XT60s with a 25 Watt iron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 I find it hard to believe that successful soldering can take place without either flux cored solder or external flux but if you can do it successfully then you have unusual skills. One point often missed is properly tinning the iron immediately prior to soldering - you need a decent bead of molten solder on the tip to effect the heat transfer to the components to be soldered as fast as possible. Solder should be applied to the components - not the iron - during the soldering operation. And Tim - ditch the unleaded and use real solder! Edited By Martin Harris on 25/10/2020 19:36:25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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