Danny Fenton Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 They are quite unreliable, I have stopped using them. The little servos are a similar weight (1.6g) and far more reliable/smoother/quieter. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose L. G. Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 Hi Danny. I`m still in the background. My Fury is still missing the top wing. My eysight is not better tan before, so I have serious problems but decided to finish it. Probably I resume building next january. I know the feeling when no one make comments on your own thread. I few years back I made a "Panther" autogiro designed by Richard Harris and didn`t received nil comments. I`ve seen your videos on tissue covering, as has passed a long time when I used this technique. Also I`ve seen your video on fiberglassing and peel-ply application. Very entertaining. In the recpect I`d seen that you use latex gloves and these are no recommended actually, Better use the vinyl or nitrile variety. Still pending to see the foil covering video. Also I`ve suscribed tou your channel. Please keep coming. Best Regards José Luis Spain. (now rainy) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 Danny Thanks for the videos, all very informative and really useful stuff. Your progress / speed at progressing the build is astonishing !! I'm progressing slowly with tissueing and glassing and foiling but nothing worth posting yet Waiting for a tissue delivery........... If you need any idea's for the next video......... How about forming lithoplate into those nose cowling upper blisters ?? cheers Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 Hi José, It does get a bit soul destroying. We asked the techies for a thumbs up many years ago to combat exactly that nil response feeling. But it would take money that just isn't available sadly. Anyway back to the Fury, I am sorry to hear the eyesight isn't back up to scratch, and impressed that you are going to carry on anyway, well done You have surprised me with the latex comment, showing my naivety, whats the issue with latex? I grasped the nettle and did the other lower cowl cheek, changed the angle slightly, still ended up with a small tear. But at least this way the tear was underneath and less visible The underside is actually done in one piece on the full size, that's a leap too far for me. So that's most of the metalwork done, (still have radiator, scoops and U/C to cover) the verdict is that Flite Metal is thicker than the Mick Reeves tape, which in turn is thicker than Halfords foil tape I would chose Flite metal over the others, but it really does need a rock hard under-surface Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 Hi Martin, got to strike while i still have some enthusiasm Next video will be on that lower cowl cheek. But sure I will do the blisters next. Sounds a pleasant interlude from foil or tissuing the wings Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose L. G. Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 Hi Danny. About "latex gloves". The latex is permeable (lets pass throught) to solvens and chemicals. That`s the reson that they recomends barrier creams with latex gloves. The vinyl and nitrile gloves are not permeble to solvens and chemicals so are better for use with epoxi r/ polyester resins. Using the correct protection in neccesary for avoiding alergic reactions. José Luis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 Thanks Jose, you have to watch contaminating the model with some stuff too Anyway I will keep that in mind when I next stock up Last video on flite metal forming, lots of boring musing to mute if you arent impressed. I have also shot a video on forming the blisters Martin, but you will have to wait for that to render. But here is a taster...... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 Now that's just showing off!. Seriously though, that is a work of art Danny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 Hi Danny The videos are superb .Thanks I am not sure how you overcame the loss of adhesion when using soapy water . Did you dry off and start again? Any thoughts on how you would seal it to prevent fuel or oil ingress? It's very impressive stuff .Is it very much harder than the pipe Ali foil? Too many questions .Sorry Martyn Edited By Martyn K on 26/11/2019 22:13:01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 Care and patience appear to be the key ingredients, don’t they? Can there be any issues with radio interference? Thanks for the advice on the linear micro servos by the way, I’m drawing the same conclusion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 Posted by Martyn K on 26/11/2019 21:45:15: Hi Danny The videos are superb .Thanks I am not sure how you overcame the loss of adhesion when using soapy water . Did you dry off and start again? Any thoughts on how you would seal it to prevent fuel or oil ingress? It's very impressive stuff .Is it very much harder than the pipe Ali foil? Too many questions .Sorry Martyn Edited By Martyn K on 26/11/2019 22:13:01 Hi Martyn, there is a caption, the third time I abandoned the soapy water The Flite Metal is thicker than the others and it is key. You can put wrinkles in the material just by removing the backing so care has to be taken at all times. You can score the stuff with a finger nail and you wont remove the mark Not sure about interference, I will do a thorough range check, should be okay in control line mode Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 Thanks guys, I really appreciate your comments I enjoy making the videos and they are much faster to produce now I am using the new win 10 laptop Hopefully you will see it is not that difficult, as Colin says just a little patience. Now just for Martin Fane, grab your popcorn and fizzy drink, get comfy, and enjoy........... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Hilton Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 Hi Danny Great video thanks ,How did you cut the doam out without damaging it please Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 Danny, I think you are getting better at it (the metal work) with each stage you complete Superb job and thanks for the videos Agree regarding the Flite Metal, the finish is completely dependent on the the substrate finish. It has sot be smooth and hard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 That's one blister sorted, just have to try and make another identical one Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 Thanks Alan and Manish, agreed on the hardness. Over the cowl which is solid the Flite Metal is great, not good over the glassed balsa. I used curved scissors Manish to trim down, and then sanded the edges further. As it is thicker litho it is not so delicate. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 Excellent video on metal working Danny I'm going to have a go tomorrow, only have thinner lithoplate so will have to see how it stands up to forming....... cheers Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 As a matter of interest regarding metal foil covering and potential issues for receiver sensitivity. The Flite metal website has a section discussing this and testing of Futaba / Spektrum systems. It appears the covering has no detrimental effect. cheers Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 Thanks Martin I used the thinner for the first attempt, It got too thin and split well before it was sufficiently dished I had to re-aneal the alloy three times as it work hardened. But give it a go? But don't say I didn't warn you The litho I ended up using is 0.26mm the thinner is 0.16mm Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 Hi Danny Still need to watch the last video but I am now confused what foil/litho or flite skin you used where. I think Litho was used for the blisters and the front of the cowl.. Can you summarise please? Thanks Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 Sure Martyn, the first few areas I foiled, including the upper cowl was done using alloy foil from Halfords. The cockpit hatch and panel directly forward was with Mick Reeves Metalcoat. The remaining panels, and the foiling videos are of me applying Filte Metal from the US. Flite Metal is thicker and is the easier product to use IMO. The blisters are made from .26mm lithographic plate, and there is a video covering there forming. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 Thanks Danny Mine will be slightly different as I will be using the GF cowl. I'll try using Metalcoat for all except the blisters and cowl front. You have no idea how helpful this is. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 Hi Martyn, as an exercise I tried to cover the glass cowl blisters in foil and failed miserably. You may have to remove them and make blisters in thicker litho. Martin tells me the thicker litho seems hard to get. Saying that any litho can be difficult Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxfan Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 I use the thin ally sheet from K&S metal centre for making cowls and blisters. It is a most malleable, yet crisp sheet and always gives me an excellent result. I make a pattern (hammer form) in steamed pear, then hammer it with a piece of lignum vitae held in the palm. The flange is then turned up with smooth faced pliers. Trim with files. Dummy rivets punched in with a model railway style riveting machine. Flush rivets made with a tool for doing plastic model kits. Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 Looks good to me Danny certainly better than mine, I made blisters to fit over the gf blisters on the cowl . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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