Nigel R Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 Will definitely be following this build! Silly question... but how do the shrouds on the aerodynamic balance part of the elevator work? Sort of on the tailwheel / flight mode topic... what TX do you have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 My cheap foamy Corsair has tailwheel steering that functions only when undercarriage is down, with a mix to rudder. EdgeTX on a Radiomaster TX16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted March 14, 2022 Author Share Posted March 14, 2022 9 hours ago, Nigel R said: Silly question... but how do the shrouds on the aerodynamic balance part of the elevator work? Not silly at all Nigel and it is my intention to try to find some better photos than I have currently. This is the best I have found and it isn’t conclusive, though I feel there is a small shroud there. At least I can thin my shrouds back easily. What I find interesting is that the full size has joined elevator halves (also clear in this photo) but my plans have done away with the connecting part. None of the formidable builders on RCSB made the decision to incorporate it either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted March 15, 2022 Author Share Posted March 15, 2022 On 14/03/2022 at 06:37, Nigel R said: what TX do you have? DX 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted March 15, 2022 Share Posted March 15, 2022 On DX9, using flight modes would solve your problem the easiest, I imagine? Takeoff/fly/land on a three-pos switch, mops up gear, flaps & rates in one go. As for the shrouding, I think I get it now, they'll just be cut back until the elevator clears. Wonder why the joiner was not modelled..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted March 30, 2022 Author Share Posted March 30, 2022 That’s the basics of the first wing glued up. I set the root rib to 0 incidence and then used my new inclinometer to set the tip to 2 degrees for washout. A 1/8 spruce strip was then slid under all the ribs and angled so that the washout graduates from root to tip. By marking the position of the strip I will be able to set the same incidences for the right wing. I built my last two models wings in two halves each with their own root rib. However despite countless checking when joining the root fit still wasn’t perfect. This time I glues both the roots together and as my bench is long enough will just build off the root for the right wing. Perfect fit achieved. Spars are not spruce but a lovely smelling conifer of some kind whose name I forget. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted March 30, 2022 Share Posted March 30, 2022 Cyparis ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted March 30, 2022 Author Share Posted March 30, 2022 That’s the stuff, John. I can’t stop sanding the offcuts just to fill the workshop with the smell. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted March 30, 2022 Share Posted March 30, 2022 Mates who build LMA stuff use it a lot, reckons to glue better than Spruce, less oil on it they tell me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted April 1, 2022 Author Share Posted April 1, 2022 Third model build with retracts and this time I have the exact units as per the plan, which make getting the angles correct a doddle. The maple bearers let into the pre cut slots in the ply doubled ribs were both parallel and flat with no fettling required. Epoxy and some micro balloons to glue in place and the retract clip in to ensure it would all cure true. Lets hope the right wing plays ball as nicely. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted April 1, 2022 Share Posted April 1, 2022 Loverly retracts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted April 5, 2022 Author Share Posted April 5, 2022 So while the washout jig strip positioning and general first part of the wing construction is fresh in mind I have made a start on the other side. The first wing is propped up in place with the root at zero incidence again and a measurement taken from board to tip and this checked against the relevant drawing on the plan. Just a little tweaking of supports and everything sat in place ready to build off. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted April 6, 2022 Author Share Posted April 6, 2022 with the basic framing of both port and starboard completed and all webbing added to main and rear spars (though not shown on the plan, I added webbing between the rear spars out one bay past the aileron). The plan shows ply webbing between the back of the rear retract bearer and the top skin of the wing. I didn’t like the idea of any heavy loads being transferred to the upper wing skin so instead opted for gussets cut from 1/2” balsa. Lighter than the ply and heaps of strength for those long legs. Bentley drawings at hand to check the cannon positions. There is a bit to think about now before any sheeting can be done. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted April 7, 2022 Author Share Posted April 7, 2022 The joy of Laser cut parts, though sometimes I feel it’s almost cheating. The 3/32 ply skins for the ailerons would not have been fun to prepare so definitely on board with the laser on this task. I have glued in all the ribs except the 3 thicker ones that will carry the hinges. I am out of 2m nuts and bolts that I need for my usual homemade hinges so until an order of more arrives I have set aside that task. The aileron in the foreground has had the last 4 mm of the ribs removed and will be replaced with the carbon tow that is draped on top. Also a scale trim tab need fabricating from Proskin and that can be glued in along with the carbon. I need to add the leading edges and work out a washout packing strip. Along the span of each wing half I have built in 2 degrees and the ailerons account for about 40% of the span, so I figure .8 degrees should be near enough. The flap will also need something similar but for those I will have the wing ribs to work off. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 1 hour ago, Nick Somerville said: The joy of Laser cut parts, though sometimes I feel it’s almost cheating. The 3/32 ply skins for the ailerons would not have been fun to prepare so definitely on board with the laser on this task. I call it progress Nick. just think how long it would take to cut that lot out. Great build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted April 9, 2022 Author Share Posted April 9, 2022 Hinges fabricated for the ailerons and dry fitted. The supplied ply horn seemed a tad flimsy so I copied the shape onto pc board and made a pair for each aileron so I can use a sturdy ball link between. It is in the scale position and will be partially hidden by a small shroud where the actuating rod exits the wing. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted April 12, 2022 Author Share Posted April 12, 2022 I don’t mind saying that completing this stage of the ailerons has been a bit of a struggle. The top 1/32nd ply parts have a fair curve to negotiate at the leading edge and no kind of soaking in hot water and applying heat with a covering iron did much to help it around. Lots of sanding to thin critical area helped a little plus plenty of CA and kicker. I was still left with a lip that needed some filler and reshaping but I finally got to where I wanted. The other issue was following the washout outboard of the penultimate rib where the trailing edge curves around. I had cut a wedge of balsa after some simple trig to achieve the correct washout, but following into the tip curve was more guesswork with some tapered trailing edge infill. The carbon tows were squeezed through with Gorilla wood glue that hardens to a very rigid trailing edge and beats mixing micro portions of laminating resin. Pretty much ready for covering now. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted April 12, 2022 Share Posted April 12, 2022 Quote That really did look tricky to do, makes me wonder how the designer got on with it. I take it that the ply was pre-cut in the kit. My 1:5 Vailley Hurri had some rather grey areas too, although I did not have a kit to work with. 96", 50cc petrol and 28lbs (mainly due to the stringers being spruce, thus requiring 1kg of lead in the nose). A doddle to fly and seems almost lighter than air after an engine cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted April 12, 2022 Author Share Posted April 12, 2022 58 minutes ago, Martin McIntosh said: I take it that the ply was pre-cut in the kit. Yes Martin, as mentioned earlier I have a Set of formers, ribs and some other parts from Belair already cut. Still, win some loose some as I am starting work on the flaps and the plan details are a long way off scale. It details 7 ribs and closed ends whereas the full size had 12 ribs and open ends. Photo below of a scale 1/48 metal model FW 190 flap to demonstrate. The upper surface has a semi open structure which I will replicate using Proskin, which will be a challenge to get the openings tidy. The joys of modelling. Had your Fury flown yet Martin? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted April 12, 2022 Author Share Posted April 12, 2022 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted April 12, 2022 Share Posted April 12, 2022 No, not yet. I have a spinal problem making walking very difficult and carrying a model and kit out to the field even more so until it is resolved. However, one of my sons could be available to assist for the next couple of days when the weather conditions look to be ideal so I shall see. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted April 13, 2022 Share Posted April 13, 2022 15 hours ago, Martin McIntosh said: No, not yet. I have a spinal problem making walking very difficult and carrying a model and kit out to the field even more so until it is resolved. However, one of my sons could be available to assist for the next couple of days when the weather conditions look to be ideal so I shall see. Hope you get fixed soon........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted April 13, 2022 Author Share Posted April 13, 2022 Some good progress on the flaps I think. I cut four pieces of Proskin and then marked on the scale rib positions, working from the Bentley drawings. I deviated a little to accommodate the 1/2 x 1/4 hard balsa leading edge as I didn’t want to compromise rigidity there. An old piece of square section carbon stringer was halved to be glued close to the trailing edge and the ribs will be fitted between. I am glad I googled that photo of a scale flap as It details the scale hinge points. One incorporated in the actuating horn, which is in combined with the rib and the other two outboard between ribs. Adapting my usual hingeing method should work well here. To make all the cutouts I marked out one top skin and then taped it together with the other and made a pairs of holes between the ribs using a pilar drill and a fine diamond hole saw. Thereafter a Dremel with a sanding bobbin did the rest with its radius conveniently matching my marking out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted April 15, 2022 Author Share Posted April 15, 2022 Flaps about there. Super rigid with the twin proskin skins. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted April 20, 2022 Author Share Posted April 20, 2022 Blind nuts in place for retracts and leading edges being sanded in readiness for the top skins to be added. The plan shows 1/2” L.E’s but I have just added 1/4” so I can sheet over and then add a second 1/4” L.E. A good deal stronger and actually surprising how much precious wood is saved. The outer balsa ribs have had the noses taped with Frog tape to prevent over exuberance with the sanding block. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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