Painting a model, acrylic or enamel?

[martin collins 1]

I am just about to airbrush my latest scale build which is a lightly built all sheeted airframe which has had 5 coats of thinned dope rubbed down in between and it is now ready for paint. It only has a span of 36" and i would like to keep it fairly light so was considering whether acrylic being water based was a lighter option than the Flair enamel i have here? They will both probably require primer but the acrylic will need a lacquer over the top to avoid sweaty finger print marks and water marking if landing on damp grass whereas the oil based paint won`t require that. Any thoughts on the weight difference between the two on this lightweight airframe?

[Denis Watkins]

Does it need to be fuel proof Martin?

And primer does weigh a significant amount on a small model.

[martin collins 1]

No fuel proofer needed as it is electric but the acrylic if used will need a lacquer as a similar model now has finger prints on it from sweaty fingers when hand launched! 

[martin collins 1]

Was going to prime it then wet flat back as it gives a better key for the top coat. 

[Denis Watkins]

Yes primer, but just enough to cover.

Airbrush Acrylic is especially ground pigments for the airbrush and go on well.

if using " match pots " for domestic use, then most  colours do go on well, but try to keep the thinner from 10% to aid adhesion

Dont go straight in at 50/50 to try to get it to spray as adhesion falls off as your paint will.to

Google home brew acrylic thinner.

[Allan Bennett]

I suspect that the weight difference may depend on what colour you're using;  For instance, I've found that yellow needs many more coats to get a consistent, accurate, colour than most other colours.  So, if you have some accurate scales (or simply use a balance arm with identically sized samples) you may need to do some tests to determin the answer to your question.

 

Personally, since going electric, I prefer water-based acrylics for airbrushing.  Partly because they don't smell, and partly because the airbrush is easier to clean.  My favourite brand is Lifecolor, which comes in a vast range of military colours as well as 'normal' ones.  I usually prime with Halfords plastic primer spray can, then finish off with a light covering of Humbrol clear varnish.

[Paul De Tourtoulon]

I did some painting on my ME 109, the humbrol yellow was lumpy, the Tamiya was good but a coupe of spurts in my 15€ aerograph and it was gone, I finally used some " touch' up acrylic from a paint store, however it was a bit heavier,,,

[martin collins 1]

Ok, been to the local hobby store and bought some Tamiya acrylics and primer to do the job but what i haven`t got is a lacquer to go over it, shop owner wasn`t sure if the Tamiya lacquer would stop moisture from degrading the paint, anyone else suggest a suitable lacquer finish which is waterproof to go over Tamiya acrylics?

[PatMc]

Wilco's WB varnish.

[Engine Doctor]

My Kyosho T33 was painted with Artists acrylic sprayed directly onto the foam . Adhesion was excellent . It was then coated with Ronseal WB varnish. It was still excellent ten years on having been flown many many times. Think what colour your using and perhaps apply a light undercoat of app colour to achieve the best of a light coat of finish colour ie white uc for red to achieve a bright vibrant red.

The WB Roseal varnish was what I had on the shelf and was interior grade. It ocassionally felt mildly sticky if being flown in the evening or during damp conditions. They fo make an outdoor variety but have not used it so can't comment.