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Frog 150 diesel project.


Engine Doctor
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 Here's something for those of you who are paid up members of the "Oily Hands Society " (OHS) and may be interested . is a  I was recently given a rather sorry Frog 150 diesel by a forum member as a project , It has Zero compression and when stripped it looks as if its had a sort of replacement piston fitted in the past ! The machining marks look like piston rings . 

Pic is of the cleaned crank case  ( sorry , I got carried away and didn't do a before pic) and the piston -con rod assembly. Other bits will be cleaned properly before they are worked on 

Fortunately the cylinder looks ok . I might have to give that a light lapping before fitting a new piston .

I'll start the piston shortly and post progress . 

If all goes well I'll also re anodise the Cylinder head as it a bit scratched and will look much better .

 

 

DjO-R22DCFn9q8IEqJwVzOu5ZhnSn01OON2aniTqVwtJopjeLxkeKdDewmx65mlCMJXd24yhLlS9_drfnMG_FSQ9XSZr8TBDDcF3S768pn5xYJb61dB2b2BaQ0whdi4at7nMmEhfla133hXUmy_IZUXkEMkLjHbQJzog6R-aCbxU9xqCMRhRPLpy_Uy3zsPwPXkOFa-NKaBYvptkwi2tbR0RgSNz32RSf2cIH_GON_lv6XyfPDx6jiu63IxGbMu9NCGA98sHKH0i9kco_GizSiZr9f1DpbZhGuUEJzjCgLq0sTk7XM0qSimhLFBWP3sSE0aYZdCEwqL4mkiriDd92gGqhFeVpYw-fA4hZN54e4TiAxEd8ql0Z11SV0YvMBIWiQcXmjJ3WE4QCn3Qra3f1gJ60_h070SPtOacZxLSibTJiF9-QWEU8USzVEJjT0Xl571-gsMeIEhrKnTLCYUzdZc0Yogln-2z9EuvrpPrIiJqKYcpYGEH1QPtLMMV8LiVa4FIzRds90nn2RRXuCw6rUQoWk2b-2hGv6S2WI6ohtNSWeoOIYHQczm4120p6H-IcvOv0Fb9KLKHJW0j9hj-9zAVSWGXe0n8B2kDSn0geJNxLo4moI0652-5UBxWqxMyTmQHJUm2zq7h3S73RuTqk3pN7uQzF62713QYbj-8g65Etu2_sktLO2IK0ECH2OYFvg7ckvonU3zJ3tZXP5b8faR6wXxuja9d1SvTcYJ10x10slYtrvj5CqGksN1UZWK9vRR4QEXWZ3CPnLjSgJIMLwhGa7VYIGyDReK_xdQ9sjevY2qi2iw-KpVGi07oXC6zYW5fkLTNwRPAEWq8_0XCEP6rk4L_fcKTVDAfspnex-eUNEJYjntBxF-tEDuAokY8K4JERE-2sE8E-3DIhgmKlf6dC0Dn1PCLvO4Ze44iNMWPyuCV=w402-h892-no?authuser=0dwlyB1fowk0D2DAGyAbqTyFgIdFwV7M29AOLd6nsixbmNkd7yCZYfUEnH5NDmcKnx61x7RJbXGeKWVTd4nBZE5IzUZUdZZedMsvyQNGhDoioW8iyzESsh3bPzSq60A7TRabLLoecNd_UN2juRDRq14nChjtLNHjxztTg61OD80sKZs1nxeHI0e10wcsiyFhcRYOEloSPwzLs4_l7XW9F0_Y-NZu8CZBcYz8RfV5me3BVK61DHDKqoykX7NAbR-h2lvhz8mzCkD-jmIpTMQKck8mRu2ns2xKk71kgDyXdsuqoxlRrp6n7T0VrLqoVTyb1BXSkvsIt2KJTXYqDHT6-QxI70vkMI8qK1GLvM4yMBNaDOyX32fhkPEJdGjxyg_1Hp-eagUTaH5WBq0rjwcv6rAU_JaMzfiXNQwFSZgme2UPNrLtnKfRJUWqlmlL4DQqkzTxE5kpSvKxUrJX7sx-Dd8_0MXNtU-lAz0CUdnWu50gwwO4xmN8ywu-_e-k-QWF5loZBIGhynJh-XAO8t75AKospMF9hiDKlj_lWGXCvHWo6o_wA5JCM9oG2yoYnapSes5SJQv-29_q2APteMLcAq4tJ6c0Yaj90k228mpz-iVjrPC0nb2f_HShxRd2V1Kb4meR2bDDZpInp00yVxCz-bLdmHhvFxvJxF-Pzxjh8ods59wXiU3Oo9l-PJSOYk30fxGEsKRgAjbngQvwcyRo0DDXqJN-KtPXIX4dTz1Ha3ciXQRkOZQKDaSJ4HDiUPYgIfhq716UJfXrhRoNyNRI6wrS17h4jiEVapo2zG-lIsCBRnU0e84sPvPgBhj64KO9xk1dvkev3OJRDLEXKOUOVed8v0DcyEBaJJinQkKaDMp8yB1pyhqOwsj4ysDreB114ohaN-yVqbgMGRMZZ6jN0cBMGnJ51SBzO7hkmUBf2y6_ieNHB=w402-h892-no?authuser=0

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok so new piston started . Ive bored the inside out to match original piston and reduced the blank so as its very near to fitting the liner . The blank has also been blacked with a marking pen  and marked for piston hight gudgeon pin centre line . Next I will drill the holes for the  Gudgeon pin but need to fit it in the mill on a rotary table . I tried drilling straight through from one side but the drill always wanders off so Ill drill through both sides the ream to a final fit for pin . When happy with fit I'll finish fitting piston to liner.

Normally I would make a new piston and contra-piston(CP)  and lap the cylinder but cylinder is good and CP is a good fit so just a piston it is . 

 

124_2634.JPG

Edited by Engine Doctor
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Hi Jeff . Yes started with a centre dril then an undersized new drill . I believe that had I drilled the gudgeon hole before boring the piston internally it would have been OK?  

Haven't been in the ws for a few days and have mates wanting some workso piston may have to wait a few days . Next step is to mount it in a rotary table and drill through from both sides before reaming to fit. 

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The blank was then finished to be a snug fit into the bottom of the cylinder but below the the exhaust ports being careful to keep it parallel . Starting with 400 grit placed on a cutting tool for a flat finish . As I get closer change to 1200 grit and finish with 2000 grit wet and dry with a drop of oil . The grinding is done very gently and checked often for fit in the cylinder . I also  use a micrometer to  check the blank for parallel between each grinding . The cylinders are slightly tapered and become slightly smaller above the ports . 

20230131_132516.jpg

20230131_135852.jpg

Edited by Engine Doctor
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As usual I forgot my phone when I fitted the blank into the milling table so no pics of the drilling  . Here its been drilled and re mounted into my lathe and is being parted off . Before the parting off is finished the bank is given a very light grind to remove any burrs . The stud is used just catch it when its parted.

20230131_155839.jpg

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The Frog has now been assembled and test run after re-anodising the Head and prop spinner nut . The engine feels very smooth after a short run with nice bouncy compression .

Members of the "Honourable Oily Hand Society" will also know what I'm talking about when I say the smell of it is great 😃.

For those interested in anodising , the blue dye used is blue inkjet printer ink mixed 50:50 with distilled water.

The needle valve used (not in pic) is one of the generic one available from the 1960/70's so currently looking for a Frog NV to complete it.

Thanks again to the Forum member who donated the tired engine . It should grace the skies again at some point in a 2 ch type model .

 

20230208_170208.jpg

 

20230208_170158.jpg

An enjoyable winter project even if heating the Workshop is more expensive now-days . Thank heavens for the Diesel heater ,now run on kerosene as its a bit cheaper 

Edited by Engine Doctor
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