David Hazell 1 Posted March 9, 2023 Share Posted March 9, 2023 4 hours ago, Martin McIntosh said: By the way, I expect that other builders will need to seriously extend the battery to ESC wiring. No way of knowing yet if my ESCs will stand this. I extended the wires from the ESCs to the motors. Apparently way less of an issue than extending the wires from the battery to the ESCs. My ESCs reside towards the front of the wing in the fuselage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted March 10, 2023 Author Share Posted March 10, 2023 Thinking along the same lines as I once lost a twin on take off despite modifying the escs. I have a couple of multi engined models with internal ones and cooling does not seem to be an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted March 10, 2023 Share Posted March 10, 2023 (edited) 23 minutes ago, Martin McIntosh said: Thinking along the same lines as I once lost a twin on take off despite modifying the escs. I have a couple of multi engined models with internal ones and cooling does not seem to be an issue. So I made a loom thing which _does_ add a bit of length, and I didn't shorten the battery wires from the ESCs to compensate. I hope it's short enough not to cause issues. I extended the ESC to motor wires and then plaited them together (apparently this helps to reduce interference elsewhere. I've got my motor wires coming through the top of the engine pod to fuse former. Oh and I added a vent hole under the gun at the front. I've not sorted out the exhaust vent yet, but will likely have some slatted ply behind the wing trailing edge on the fuselage. Edited March 10, 2023 by David Hazell 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted March 11, 2023 Author Share Posted March 11, 2023 David, do you have any pics of the fan pod mouldings since the TN build photos seem to stop short at that point. I shall, of course, have to make up my own. Got some of the upper sheeting done and made a right pigs ear of some around the top block but should be able to hide that under a balsa canopy when I make one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted March 12, 2023 Share Posted March 12, 2023 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted March 12, 2023 Author Share Posted March 12, 2023 Thanks for those, very helpful. Fus. top sheeting nearing completion. I am thinking of omitting it below the fan mount to provide an air exit for esc cooling since I have decided to fit them close to the battery pack. The intake will be the noseleg cutout. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 Notice the way the rear engine pod vac form is only symmetrical side to side, not top to bottom. The plan does show this pretty well, hopefully you can see that from my pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted March 13, 2023 Author Share Posted March 13, 2023 Yes, I think I can see it. Would never have noticed from the plans. Have started to cut N1,2 and 4. The fans fit perfectly. No mention anywhere of how the bell housing is fixed on but presumably with hot glue as well, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted March 14, 2023 Share Posted March 14, 2023 (edited) What do you mean by bell housing? The only hot glue I used was to secure the EDF units (and then only on the back of the hole and against the edf, and then to secure the acetate thrust tubes to the EDFs. I made a bit of a pigs ear of the hot glue work, but it is all hidden away now. Completely not serviceable at all if/when a fan goes bang! I've added the fillets to the engine housing now. Looks very Starship Enterprise indeed! I also decided to copy you and and my cooling exhaust slots under the engine pod former. Bit of a thin slit which I might well need to increase in area but it's certainly going to be well hidden: I'll feather it all in to be smooth tomorrow. I'm approaching the point where I need to start covering the fuselage soon. I will add some cockpit detail and some of the more obvious sticky out bits (like the long rectangular bit on top between the engine pods, the radar sensors on the tail, the little nobbles on the either side of the nose. I don't want to go over the top because it's really not that accurate a scale model, what with the lack of flaps and "proper" undercarriage. I will know when I've gotten far enough for my liking. As it is, I'm not adding all the ordnance rails to the wing, so maybe I just need to dial it back and accept it as it is! oh and I'm going to copy this paint scheme (no need for weathering!): https://www.thedrive.com/the-war-zone/41483/behold-the-awesomeness-of-this-black-a-10-warthog Edited March 14, 2023 by David Hazell 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted March 14, 2023 Share Posted March 14, 2023 Nice scheme! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted March 14, 2023 Share Posted March 14, 2023 9 hours ago, David Hazell 1 said: What do you mean by bell housing? The only hot glue I used was to secure the EDF units (and then only on the back of the hole and against the edf, and then to secure the acetate thrust tubes to the EDFs. I made a bit of a pigs ear of the hot glue work, but it is all hidden away now. Completely not serviceable at all if/when a fan goes bang! I've added the fillets to the engine housing now. Looks very Starship Enterprise indeed! I also decided to copy you and and my cooling exhaust slots under the engine pod former. Bit of a thin slit which I might well need to increase in area but it's certainly going to be well hidden: I'll feather it all in to be smooth tomorrow. I'm approaching the point where I need to start covering the fuselage soon. I will add some cockpit detail and some of the more obvious sticky out bits (like the long rectangular bit on top between the engine pods, the radar sensors on the tail, the little nobbles on the either side of the nose. I don't want to go over the top because it's really not that accurate a scale model, what with the lack of flaps and "proper" undercarriage. I will know when I've gotten far enough for my liking. As it is, I'm not adding all the ordnance rails to the wing, so maybe I just need to dial it back and accept it as it is! oh and I'm going to copy this paint scheme (no need for weathering!): https://www.thedrive.com/the-war-zone/41483/behold-the-awesomeness-of-this-black-a-10-warthog What a really tidy workshop!!!. I wish mine was like that. Bas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted March 14, 2023 Author Share Posted March 14, 2023 The FMS units have a bell mouth which is not fixed to the fan as supplied. It fits in from the front and needs securing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted March 14, 2023 Share Posted March 14, 2023 Oh I glued it to the fan using superphatic (my favourite wicking adhesive). Superglue would work just as well I should think! I then passed the whole fan unit through the constructed engine pod and secured it from behind with hot glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted March 18, 2023 Author Share Posted March 18, 2023 Busy lately working on the nacelles which have given me a bit of a headache. The stringer length shown on the top view is not the same as on the side view of the same part, leading me to think that N1&2 were at 90 deg to the mounting plates, but they are not. I can get round this by angling the thrust tubes upwards from the fans. Got the shape of the front part done from some rather harder to work balsa than I would have liked but it is now ready to make a GRP mould from. The rear ones will be much more difficult since the only material I had left was blue foam. I have bent up the main u/c legs ready to fit and shall have to guess how far back these should go from the cg but may may a sliding mount rail so that it may be changed a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted March 18, 2023 Share Posted March 18, 2023 There's an angle gauge for N2 angle... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted March 19, 2023 Author Share Posted March 19, 2023 (edited) Oh, didn`t see that! Not too late to change them should I wish. Edited March 19, 2023 by Martin McIntosh 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted March 19, 2023 Share Posted March 19, 2023 Lego jig for fin attachment and nice angles! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted March 19, 2023 Author Share Posted March 19, 2023 Decided to move the N2s. First one took forever to debond but the other came off quite quickly. Managed to get the moulding plugs to a reasonable shape with a lot of effort. They are now covered with very light glass cloth, which when sanded down will become the basis for the female moulds. I can now sheet the nacelles. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted March 20, 2023 Author Share Posted March 20, 2023 I have covered the nacelle plugs with light cloth and am waiting for it to cure enough to sand down then start to make the female moulds. Basic u/c pods made and the first unit fitted. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted March 20, 2023 Share Posted March 20, 2023 Looking brilliant! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted March 23, 2023 Share Posted March 23, 2023 What do these symbols mean? I can't find anywhere online that tells me!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Williams Posted March 23, 2023 Share Posted March 23, 2023 Trestle point and sling point I think 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted March 24, 2023 Author Share Posted March 24, 2023 Having a lot of trouble with the nacelle grp mouldings. I have made very many similar items in the past but these are driving me mad. I would normally use a polyester gel coat over the polished plugs but although I have the tin of resin I searched high and low for the catalyst which came with it, so since it says on the tin to use 2% MEKP catalyst I tried the stuff which comes with U Pol and Halfords Fast Glass. Mistake! It appeared to set with a tacky surface as normal, but when I tried to get one out of a plug the stuff had not set at all and I had to get the thing very hot in order to pull off the glass cloth. Managed to recover the plug after much washing with every type of solvent I could muster so that I can start again. Thankfully I did not try this with the blue foam rear one since I have no more of it left and am making this by an old fashioned method. Will find out tomorrow if it has worked. Bashing on whittling away at the gear pods which will be covered before fitting; also nearly done the nacelle sheeting. Pics later if it all works out OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zflyer Posted March 24, 2023 Share Posted March 24, 2023 No 3d printing of thar component? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted March 26, 2023 Author Share Posted March 26, 2023 Great idea but the cost of one plus educating myself to use it precludes anything like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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