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Using a socket driver to engage with prop nut


Andy J
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30 minutes ago, john stones 1 - Moderator said:

 i use this on my engines. Its even been used to turn a dle55 and didnt mind. Just be aware that you will weld the switch on regularly if you use a 6s lipo. 

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2 hours ago, Mike T said:

Mick Reeves does it: starter  (scroll down to 'biplane parts')

So I copied it to use on my 1/4-scale Pup:

 

 

(there should be a nice pic here, but forum software says "no".  Just imagine a geared starter with a 19mm socket pushed into the rubber cone.  Plenty of grip, plus a little 'give')

 

 

“Add Files” and choose photo.EB6DBAE9-1FDD-4E8B-90EE-F5EBEC5EC94B.jpeg.49ae4d1bbfddea6e210524a7d6e09e50.jpeg

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My 6s lipo is over 25v when fully charged so a pair of 3s will be the same. The starter itself can handle it, but you will weld the switch if you arent careful. The trick is never to stall the thing as that really draws the current. Still, mine welds itself on 1 out of 3 starts i guess so i just whack it with a stick and that sorts it out. On occasion i have really welded it and have to take it apart to fix it. As 6s gives enough power for 60cc engines you could drop to 3 of 5s without too much issue. Just note that the rpm is going to be low with the gearing so lower voltage will output lower rpm and this can be a problem for small engines that idle faster/cannot push the starter faster than it wants to go. 

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19 hours ago, Andy J said:

Thought I had seen one on the MR site could not spot it when I looked as went to the accessories page a couple of days ago. Do you find it does any damage to the prop nut Mike?

 

Its all a bit bizarre regarding the starter. Fitted a three inch spinner yesterday and the cheap and tatty 12v starter easily started the engine on a 11.2V 5000mah lipo. Tried the larger geared starter from JE using the same battery and it would not even get the prop passed TDC.  Not at all sure what voltage is the JE starter should run on as unsure which of the two types he sells as I purchased it was some years ago.  Even looked last night for a 4S lipo to see if I can speed it up, but given a lipo will be at least £60 think I will just stick to my cheap and tatty 12v job.

No damage to the prop nut Andy.  The socket is a good fit on the bolt and the initial start up 'kick' is absorbed by the rubber insert.  With a weak start battery (typical flight box 12V 7aH) it may need a helping hand (literally) over the first compression, but plenty of torque with a car/leisure battery.  In short, the battery's ability to deliver current is key.  Today, forum says "yes":

 

 

 

IMG_20230221_150253.jpg

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