KenC Posted March 3, 2023 Share Posted March 3, 2023 HI, trying to revive a garage stored OS 46FX . On the advice of a few smart members I put oil in the carb and around the rotating joint in the prop shaft. I warmed the engine with a hair dryer to help it all to flow. The oil was rocket oil out of my fishing tackle box, so nice thin and fast. She now turns over and I can hear her suck and a reasonable compression. Not all good news though , the card is locked and even pressure on the throttle arm wont move it. It was oiled in the big revive, but to no avail. Also the plate that holds the remote needle at the back of the engine is broken ( as they always do on a regular basis) . OS do have a new card , £50 from RipoffMax , but no rear needle holder plate. Also the screw that holds the carb assy is solid . Would a 46 LA carb work , they have built in needle. Which knight in shining armour can rush in and lighten my dark moment ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Lumsdon 2 Posted March 3, 2023 Share Posted March 3, 2023 Gentle heat (boiling water) should free the carb, dont force it but it will eventually free up. The remote needle can usually be moved direct to the carb so back plate not needed? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted March 3, 2023 Share Posted March 3, 2023 New plates easily made outa some ali, take carb off and soak in some fuel, it'll come free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenC Posted March 3, 2023 Author Share Posted March 3, 2023 (edited) Thanks gents, but the screw holding the carb is solid ..... Might pour a bit of kettle water over it to dee if the heat helps that part loosen Edited March 3, 2023 by Martin Harris - Moderator Removed disguised word - please note this is against forum rules. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenC Posted March 3, 2023 Author Share Posted March 3, 2023 35 minutes ago, Simon Lumsdon 2 said: Gentle heat (boiling water) should free the carb, dont force it but it will eventually free up. The remote needle can usually be moved direct to the carb so back plate not needed? Mr Lumsdon , pucker up ya beauty 🙂 It worked. after a few slow flows of very hot water from the kettle it started and then moved. I have now drained it and added more oil for it to soak up overnight . Will replace all tubing and the glow. What glow is the best for these ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted March 3, 2023 Share Posted March 3, 2023 Just a slight cautionary note here. If the engine was run on castor oil (likely by the sound of it) the oil will have got everywhere and you cannot flush it out just by squirting oil or solvent into the carb. This is a problem as the castor has likely stuck some or all of the balls in the ball bearings to the ball cage within the bearing so although the engine feels smooth to turn over it is possible the balls in the bearings are locked up solid. If you run the engine like this you score the balls and once they finally break free they rotate and completely shred the bearing. In extreme cases the cage can fail under the stress and drop steel fragments into the crankcase. These are pulverised by the conrod and the engine is completely mangled. My advice in these cases is always to strip the engine down to its bare components to inspect, clean, and replace parts as required. For about a tenner you can get some new bearings for the engine (r6z front and...6902 rear?? dont quote me, i cant remember the sizes) from simplybearings.co.uk and under an hour will have the engine stripped, cleaned, new bearings, and back together. At the very least whip the backplate off and take a look. Ideally, get it all apart and rotate each bearing in place with your finger. If they feel gritty at all just replace them. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wills 2 Posted March 3, 2023 Share Posted March 3, 2023 R6 and 6902 bearings are correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted March 3, 2023 Share Posted March 3, 2023 3 minutes ago, Richard Wills 2 said: R6 and 6902 bearings are correct. Phew, i was doubting my own engine nerd powers there for a moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenC Posted March 3, 2023 Author Share Posted March 3, 2023 Does anyone have an exploded drawing of this engine, I fear Jon's familiarity is leagues ahead of mine. In the old days Just Engines would do a revival service on these, but I fear that was before the change of ownership. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted March 3, 2023 Share Posted March 3, 2023 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenC Posted March 3, 2023 Author Share Posted March 3, 2023 (edited) Interestingly the front and rear bearings from RipoffMax are £30 ish each , and the carb assy is £50 and a new 46AX ll is around £135 ! Well done on the views Denis . Edited March 3, 2023 by KenC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenC Posted March 3, 2023 Author Share Posted March 3, 2023 Jon when I look on Simply bearings there are several choices for the types you suggested.... this is where I drown ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted March 3, 2023 Share Posted March 3, 2023 Have a look at the engine first Ken, my moneys on someone buying an FX won't have fed it castor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted March 3, 2023 Share Posted March 3, 2023 I have rebuilt many engines for clubmates and some of my own using the simply bearings value budget range. They work just fine and as most model engine bearings rust out before they wear out i would not be concerned. https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p155886/R6ZZ-Budget-Metal-Shielded-Imperial-Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearing-3/8x7/8x9/32-inch/product_info.html https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p170037/6902-Budget-Open-Type-Thin-Section-Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearing-15x28x7mm/product_info.html If you want to order the branded skf or similar they offer those as well. While Richard has confirmed my dim recollection of bearing sizes if there is ever any doubt just measure the old ones and put the details into the search page on SB's website. It then spits out the right one for you. As for justengines, i do not know what sort of services they currently offer but one email or call will have an answer for you. The first port of call though is to whip off the backplate and take a look inside as this will give an immediate indication of the overall condition of the engine. You can also remove the head to inspect the liner for the dreaded OS plating issues fx 46's suffered from. This is about 10 screws and very quick and simple. If you then go to remove the liner be sure to mark all the parts for orientation, especially the rod and piston assembly. If you do start stripping it down use a good quality allen key or screw driver bit with a good sharp end on it. DO NOT use ball ended drivers. The number of engines i get back for service with broken ball drivers in bolts....sigh. If the bolts are mega tight try a sharp tap with a small hammer on the head of the bolt. This will help move them. Heat wont work as the ali egine expands more than the steel bolts so heat makes the fit tighter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted March 3, 2023 Share Posted March 3, 2023 5 minutes ago, john stones 1 - Moderator said: Have a look at the engine first Ken, my moneys on someone buying an FX won't have fed it castor. Possible, if so its stuck with rust which is worse. But even contest 10 has enough castor in it to cause an issue. As you say though, having a look will tell the tale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caveman Posted March 3, 2023 Share Posted March 3, 2023 Ken, Model Fixings supply bearings for RC engines. I've recently refurbished an ASP 46 and OS FS26 with bearings from them with no problems. The OS page is here, scroll down to the OS 46FX row. GDB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted March 3, 2023 Share Posted March 3, 2023 1 minute ago, Caveman said: Ken, Model Fixings supply bearings for RC engines. I've recently refurbished an ASP 46 and OS FS26 with bearings from them with no problems. The OS page is here, scroll down to the OS 46FX row. GDB Not use them myself but another valid option 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenC Posted March 3, 2023 Author Share Posted March 3, 2023 Thanks Caveman , their section is so easy to navigate to the bearing for the engine , but their prices are more than double the other crowd. I am going to try and use their selection to navigate the other crowd as I am on a budget, with many things to sort with this return to flying. If I get lost I will dig myself out with £ 🙂 Thanks for the link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenC Posted March 3, 2023 Author Share Posted March 3, 2023 Thanks again Jon , if I can get it open and off the mount in the aircraft, I will give it a try. Where is your club ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan W Posted March 3, 2023 Share Posted March 3, 2023 I wouldn't spend any money on bearings until you have stripped it all apart and checked the condition of the cylinder bore. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenC Posted March 3, 2023 Author Share Posted March 3, 2023 More gaskets anyone 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenC Posted March 3, 2023 Author Share Posted March 3, 2023 Jon If I remember back 20 years, I think I used to run the 2 stroke engines on Model Technics Dynaglo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted March 4, 2023 Share Posted March 4, 2023 Wasn't dynaglo a blend of synthetic and castor? As everyone says, get the backplate off and have a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted March 4, 2023 Share Posted March 4, 2023 (edited) Take of the backplate, if it's black and rusty = synthetic oil, if it's brown and sticky = caster. A shame that I can't find their old site it had details and % of all of their mixes . Dynaglo has some protective EDL and Castor oil. https://www.r-models.eu/reservoirs-durites-carburants-et-accessoires/329-carburant-dynaglo-pour-moteur-glow-avec-5-de-nitromethane.html Edited March 4, 2023 by Paul De Tourtoulon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted March 4, 2023 Share Posted March 4, 2023 8 hours ago, KenC said: Jon If I remember back 20 years, I think I used to run the 2 stroke engines on Model Technics Dynaglo yea thats not ideal. better options available these days that is for sure and i would recommend this if you dont have fuel already. https://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?keywords=laser 5&sort=1a&products_id=85093 the only thing to watch is you do not buy the laser 5 pro/low oil version as that will not work. The one linked above will as its got the higher oil content your engine will need. 9 hours ago, KenC said: Where is your club ? Near Potters bar, just off the m25. not flown since october though for one reason or another. Hopefully next weekend, weather is pants today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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