Wing glassing on a 1/5 scale electric model

[KenC]

Firstly any tips on this process , and opinions on the extra weight when intending to electrify a largeish model . Secondly is there any advantage to Zap Epoxy , or will any vanilla form do ?

[Andy Stephenson]

Ken,

 

You will need a low viscosity Epoxy like EL2 from Easy Composites...

https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/el2-epoxy-laminating-resin

Ordinary epoxy glue is far too viscous for the job.

They also supply lightweight glass cloth specifically for wing skinning.

There are a number of how to videos online, someone here should be able to direct you to.

[KenC]

Thanks Andy I have  thin cloth that came with the kit, So will look at the chemistry you suggest. 

 

[Bruce Collinson]

Zap skinning epoxy is good kit.

 

BTC

[Jon H]

I thin my glass resin about 50% for the first coat. Apply with a stipple action and and brush using the least amount of resin i can. Once done, gentle heat with a heatgun to evaporate the thinner and kick off the resin. 2nd coat similar deal but a bit less thinner. 

 

This way adds very little strength to the model but i only use the glass as a base for the paint. The structure is strong enough on its own. 

Edited April 13, 2023 by Jon - Laser Engines

[KenC]

After looking at the easy composites stuff, 500g for £12.50 +v  and the Zap at £26 for a 300g kit  I would ask why the Zap is almost 3 times the price?

I am wanting to glass a seven foot skinned wing to allow for its transport in a car , and to reduce the issues to its surface. Is painting the only option after glassing , or can you cover over this stuff. 

[John Stainforth]

Bucks-composites, Kingfisher Aviation and FighterAces are amongst the best in the UK for providing glass fibre and suitable resins. Phil Clark at FighterAces also provides very useful advice; and FighterAces are the UK distributors for the excellent, but expensive Klass Kote epoxy paints.

[Don Fry]

3 hours ago, KenC said:

After looking at the easy composites stuff, 500g for £12.50 +v  and the Zap at £26 for a 300g kit  I would ask why the Zap is almost 3 times the price?

I am wanting to glass a seven foot skinned wing to allow for its transport in a car , and to reduce the issues to its surface. Is painting the only option after glassing , or can you cover over this stuff. 

Zap make nothing. They repackage stuff. Price, think brand names, think target customer, how cost adverse are they.

And the likes of firms supplying hard nosed customers can dream.

Mind Zap normally package in smaller packs. You can cover over glass. Be aware, trapped air bubbles are your enemy. 

[Andy Stephenson]

5 hours ago, KenC said:

Is painting the only option after glassing , or can you cover over this stuff.

Putting iron on covering over an impervious surface is likely to not come out very well as it would probably result retention of air bubbles. You can get epoxy colour dies which will help in producing a background over which trim colours can be painted.

[Paul De Tourtoulon]

Don't "fiddle" with resin, use the proper stuff no thinning just lay up epoxy resin, get yourself a small roller to even out the resin and do it in a draft free room at a minimum of 20°c.

 

Under the glass cloth where the hinge line is, I use tear cloth ( translation of 'tissue d'arrachage ) this is used as the hinge.

 

I paint over it with 2 pot polyurethane car paint.

 

[Engine Doctor]

Zap finish epoxy is my go to now on the rare occassions when i glass a model . You can get cheaper from the likes of Bucks Composites . Its ok but needs a stable temp to cure properly. If your working in an unheated garage and temp dips very low at night it will stop the cure . The Zap cures quicker 

[KenC]

Thanks for the replies. I guess the spray paint is far less expensive for an electric model as it does not have to be fuel proof.   I selecting between 20 to 30 minute pot life  and 60 to 90 minute, which would those experienced users select for and overall quicker or slower cure ?

[Andy Stephenson]

If you can vacuum bag the layup, the epoxy sets properly at the surface rather than leaving a sticky finish. Epoxy cures better in the absence of oxygen. This is only an option on foam core wings.

On pot life, the longer the better as you don't want the epoxy to start thickening before you have finished evening it out.

[KenC]

From all said, I think this will sit until the warmer days with still air.

[Engine Doctor]

As suggested for skinning go for a longer set /pot life .