cymaz Posted December 23, 2023 Share Posted December 23, 2023 (edited) Well, my poor Wot4XL is nearly 10 years old. It’s had a hard life, been a test bed for a few engines and been the go to plane in the winter. The old thing has been the first thing to fly at a new venue as the handling and characteristics are so reliable. Now it’s time to see what all this abuse has done to the airframe and see how the general build has coped with the stress. I plan to strip the old tatty covering that’s now gradually peeling off the balsa and recover in white nylon and dope. As everything will be accessible I will re-hinge with Robart pin hinges and add flaps....because it’s mine and I can 😛. So what to begin with? Something easy like the wings. And for those who’ve always wanted to know what the build quality was like...here you go... The only thing that needs a minor repair is a loose wing tip Edited December 23, 2023 by cymaz 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted December 23, 2023 Share Posted December 23, 2023 The covering seems to have come off cleanly, which is surprising in my experience but the structure looks very good. I wonder what my own Wot4 balsa ARTF is like under the covering. It's not as old as your XL but it's proved to be sound so far. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted December 23, 2023 Author Share Posted December 23, 2023 I recovered a small artf Wot4 years ago. I’m glad I did some of the balsa was almost see through it had been sanded that hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted December 23, 2023 Share Posted December 23, 2023 2 minutes ago, cymaz said: I recovered a small artf Wot4 years ago. I’m glad I did some of the balsa was almost see through it had been sanded that hard. Keeps the weight down 🙂 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted December 23, 2023 Author Share Posted December 23, 2023 (edited) Productive afternoon ripping the covering off, sanding and generally making a mess. The fuselage is interlocking ply sheets. Nice touch that a piece of hardwood in the vertical stabilizer I’m in two minds about putting a hatch in the front. I’ve not needed one up to now. Anyone think it’s needs a top hatch behind the engine?? Also programmed the radio for flap servos. Edited December 23, 2023 by cymaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted December 24, 2023 Author Share Posted December 24, 2023 Oh dear...and I thought it was going well. A bit of a panic moment. The green covering on the underside is stuck directly onto the fuselage. In my defence I tried everything to get every bit off. Doing the first thinned coat of thinned non shrinking dope the green decided to let go and smeared over the bottom of the fuselage. Some liberal applications of non bloom thinners has wiped 90% of it off, the rest has gone deep into the balsa grain that sits just behind the uc plate. Hopefully with the nylon a base coat of 2k paint it shouldn't be very noticeable, it’s on the bottom under the wing seat at least. Need to order some pin hinges and ca hinges, more dope, 3mm push rods. The rest should be in my junk drawers. I think I’ve got enough nylon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted December 26, 2023 Author Share Posted December 26, 2023 (edited) After looking through other Rc forums (😷) I found a couple of useful tips. I made a small jig to get the pin hinge constant and in line. The small notch underneath will hopefully work to keep the hinge at a correct distance from the hinge line. I hope the hinges turn out like this below... I will need a bit of practice on a bit of scrap Edited December 26, 2023 by cymaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outrunner Posted December 26, 2023 Share Posted December 26, 2023 25 minutes ago, cymaz said: After looking through other Rc forums (😷) I found a couple of useful tips. I made a small jig to get the pin hinge constant and in line. The small notch underneath will hopefully work to keep the hinge at a correct distance from the hinge line. I hope the hinges turn out like this below... I will need a bit of practice on a bit of scrap Interesting jig cymaz, can you explain how it works as I'm a fan of pin hinges but it can be a challenge to get them in-line. My favourite method is to clamp the leading and trailing edges together before they are built up and drill through both of them at the same time and I end up with perfectly aligned hinges. Wouldn't work for Fowler flaps though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted December 26, 2023 Author Share Posted December 26, 2023 (edited) Yes, you’re correct Fowler flaps are probably not the correct term. I have the Robart jig for pin hinges, an excellent tool, also it’s worth getting the different size drill collars. I’ve done a few pictures to try and make my explanation more bearable. Where you want the centre of the hinge is marked by a line across the hinge line. The notch on the bottom of the jig keeps the holes the same distance from the edge. The centre is marked on the jig. After drilling the hinge is placed into the holes so that the pin is in line with the hinge line Edited December 26, 2023 by cymaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outrunner Posted December 26, 2023 Share Posted December 26, 2023 Thanks cymaz, looks like a great idea 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted December 26, 2023 Author Share Posted December 26, 2023 The RB 319 drill jig is a must Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted December 27, 2023 Author Share Posted December 27, 2023 (edited) While waiting for some bits to arrive, I might as well rough in the flaps. No servo reverse needed as Hitec and Align servos moves in opposite directions to the signal inputs. The pushrods are the old aileron rods. Horns were saved from a crashed model. Small ply plates face the horn bases top and bottom No going back now... Edited December 27, 2023 by cymaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted December 27, 2023 Author Share Posted December 27, 2023 I made a tiny sanding block for the ply pockets. Very easy to get the depth just right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted December 28, 2023 Share Posted December 28, 2023 On 26/12/2023 at 20:38, cymaz said: Yes, you’re correct Fowler flaps are probably not the correct term. I have the Robart jig for pin hinges, an excellent tool, also it’s worth getting the different size drill collars. I’ve done a few pictures to try and make my explanation more bearable. Where you want the centre of the hinge is marked by a line across the hinge line. The notch on the bottom of the jig keeps the holes the same distance from the edge. The centre is marked on the jig. After drilling the hinge is placed into the holes so that the pin is in line with the hinge line Can you show the hinges inserted (Into the blanks as drilled)so that a newbie , like me can further understand the concept please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted December 28, 2023 Author Share Posted December 28, 2023 Of course, may be a day or so, waiting for my orders. Also need to pick up my Robart drill jig from a mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted December 28, 2023 Author Share Posted December 28, 2023 (edited) I've roughed in one of the flaps to see how it works and where I can still measure. Balsa blocks were glued into the wing TE to provide a lot more support for the hinge. I may add some brass tube to re-enforce the gluing area. The jig worked well. The wing TE went as planned, the TE of the flap surface had a strip of wood clamped as a packing piece. this meant that the drill entered just at the LE bevelled edge, keeping the knuckle right on the hinge line. Edited December 28, 2023 by cymaz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted December 29, 2023 Author Share Posted December 29, 2023 Productive day....now stuff is arriving. Servo hatches and support frame should done. Beginning to put in the ailerons and the port flap. I’ve added a picture of some servo covers I’ve found that will do for the flaps. I’ve no idea who made them. They’ve been in a draw for years but now have found a home. Does anyone know who might have made them?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted January 9 Author Share Posted January 9 Rudder and elevators are now covered with nylon. The fuselage is ready to cover but it’s now too cold at the moment to work in the garage. I now have plenty of dope and thinner to complete everything.....when it gets above 1c 🥶 in the workshop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 4 hours ago, cymaz said: Rudder and elevators are now covered with nylon. The fuselage is ready to cover but it’s now too cold at the moment to work in the garage. I now have plenty of dope and thinner to complete everything.....when it gets above 1c 🥶 in the workshop Time to get a diesel heater ? ☺️ Keep nice and toasty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted January 9 Author Share Posted January 9 Not a lot of room left for a heater😳 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted January 23 Author Share Posted January 23 Recovering the XL has now recommenced. I’ve not been entirely happy with the underside of the elevator but at least it won’t show. Hope to get all the tail area finished today. The fuselage sides and that bit is almost done. Pictures to follow in the week 📸 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted January 23 Author Share Posted January 23 Well, here we are. Progress has been excellent today. As the photos bear out, elevators installed and pinned ( not yet glued ). Rudder will be done soon, already to go though. The pictures are before and after plus detritus..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 Fuselage ready for painter Anthony @ AJS Bodyworks to do his magic. I saw him earlier in the week, and asked if couldn’t do it. He agreed, so it’s base coat 2K white and with whatever he then decides to do. “ Flames !! It’s got to have flames” ... That will be interesting to see what he does! Now only the wings to start on 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted January 28 Author Share Posted January 28 For those who don’t know and who’ve never used nylon and dope, even thin diluted layers are important. 50/50 thinner and dope over about 4 coats. Then increase the concentration to about 75dope/25 thinners over the next 2-3 coats. You should end up with a varnish like shine ..... This then leaves a good layer for when you cover in nylon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted February 4 Author Share Posted February 4 Once the nylon is placed onto the frame, it’s just a matter of liberalsoaking dope thinner through the fabric while gently rubbing into the layers of dope. The dope then softens and comes through the weave. As the thinners evaporate the dope hardens sticking the nylon onto the frame. The trick is to rub the thinners as it’s flashing off....and... keep the cloth in place, straight and not introduce creases. Wearing a face mask is essential that filters out the vapours. It looks loose in an open frame.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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