Outrunner

I think you guys might be talking to a bot that posted at 04:45 BST yesterday morning and has not responded to your help and advice. Hopefully I'm wrong.....

I launch my DB Elf16 underarm, it's had loads of flights and my fingers are still intact.

I'm using the Lemon 7 and 10ch receivers and I'm very impressed. I usually only switch the gyro in for landing but even if left switched on they are very unobtrusive. They can be a bit fiddly to setup but the downloadable instructions are very clear.

Should fly nicely Toto, I've got the Glastar, the smaller version of the Tasman. It's my all weather flyer and it gets flown on really windy days. I do have a rate gyro fitted but I only switch it in for landing when it's blowing a hooley. I don't often fly ARTFs but I do like a foamy for flying in rough weather as they tend to bounce in a hard landing and easy to repair although thankfully no repairs have been needed, yet. Enjoy.

Have you tried a servo in the throttle port?

A friend of mine is blind, she often has problems getting around vehicles parked on the footpath both with her guide dog and white stick. Often cars park blocking footpaths so people in wheelchairs or pushing prams are forced onto a road. If you can't park on the road without blocking it, park somewhere else. I understand this is not an ideal world and sometimes you have to park on the pavement but I wish drivers would give more consideration to pedestrians. Perhaps we could have a driver aid that gives parking advice!

I've got a couple of those 7ch Lemons, set as protocol DSM, X2F, no flapping about at switch on. I find the instructions on the Lemon website very helpful, they do a quick start document a full setup document and telemetry document.

A self parking car hopefully wouldn't park on the footpath!

I've got some 7 & 10ch Lemon gen 2 receivers and there is no separate box required for the many sensors built in to the receiver. The only external parts are the voltage or current sensor cables and/or optional satellite receiver.

I'm all for the driver aids. I don't want to go back to the days of no power steering, no brake servo, no fitted radio and no air conditioning. I like all the automatic bits but funny enough I still stick to manual transmission. With all the help my car gives me I can concentrate avoiding the idiots on their phones.

Tissue applied with water based varnish over laminating film, very cheap, very light and looks great. Can't comment on the Laser 75 as I only fly electric these days.

You could use a brushed ESC

That looks like a really nice GJ Murat, it should fly well humming along with a nice quiet electric motor. How many cells do you intend to use?

Good point Don, I forgot David will be using an oily engine on his model.

Call me a cynic but I suspect Eze Dope is re-labeled water based varnish...

The laminating film/doculam that I've used has the adhesive already on the film, just heat it at about 105C and it sticks. I then shrink it at about 125C. I use water based varnish because it's cheap, you can wash the brushes in water and virtually odourless. Dope is not needed as there is nothing to shrink in the tissue and the laminating film is heat shrunk. Instead of tissue you can paint the film but watch the weight.

The other thing about tissue over laminating film is it's cheap, very cheap. You can get a lifetime supply of laminating film for about £20

If you use Lightspan don't forget to add the weight of the adhesive. My go-to covering is tissue over laminating film. It's very light, how light? I don't know. Some say that it's lighter than tissues and dope as you don't have to fill the wood grain and you don't have to seal the tissue with dope. I use cheap water based varnish of on my models, just one or two very light coats. I've used it on my Tomboy up to a Junior 60, very light and tough.

You set the tappets to 0.04, what units? Jon recommended 4 thou (0.004") or .1mm. your setting is neither.

Your nice circlip pliers will fit and remove good old fashioned cirlips like these, internal and external versions.

I just use some pointed pliers to fit e-clips, hold it in the groove with your finger and pop on with the pliers. PL3 tip above is a useful trick.

Nice circlip pliers Toto, are you planning on fitting an e clip with them?

If it's not on Facebook it can't be true 😂

Hi Jonathan, when I first built my J60 in 1996 she weighed 3lb 8oz without fuel as it then had an OS26 fs for power. About 20 years ago I removed the OS as I got rid of all my engines and went fully electric flight. First I fitted a geared 600 motor with 8 cell nicad but I don't know how heavy it was. I flew it for a couple of years then it languished in the pending hanger (loft) until 4 years ago when it came back into workshop. Unfortunately the fuselage was badly twisted so the Solartex was stripped off and the fuselage was straightened by removing and refitting some of the uprights. The model was recovered in laminating film and tissue fixed with water based varnish. The current brusheless motor was fitted with about 5 degrees of down thrust. I hacked a hole into the undercarriage former to enable a 2200 3s lipo to stand at an angle just behind the motor. She now weighs 2lb 14oz including battery. I'm not sure how I managed to lose so much weight but I think a lot of it was in the Solartex. There is some lead under the motor but only 2 or 3oz.

Maybe not produced as a model covering film but laminating film is cheap as chips and easy to use