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WOT4 XL recover and refurb


cymaz
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Well, my poor Wot4XL is nearly 10 years old. It’s had a hard life, been a test bed for a few engines and been the go to plane in the winter.

 The old thing has been the first thing to fly at a new venue as the handling and characteristics are so reliable.

 

Now it’s time to see what all this abuse has done to the airframe and see  how the general build has coped with the stress.

 

I plan to strip the old tatty covering that’s now gradually peeling off the balsa and recover in white nylon and dope. As everything will be accessible I will re-hinge with Robart pin hinges and add flaps....because it’s mine and I can 😛.

 

So what to begin with? Something easy like the wings. And for those who’ve always wanted to know what the build quality was like...here you go...

 

 

 

 

 

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The only thing that needs a minor repair is a loose wing tip

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Edited by cymaz
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Productive afternoon ripping the covering off, sanding and generally making a mess. The fuselage is interlocking ply sheets. Nice touch that a piece of hardwood in the vertical stabilizer 

 

I’m in two minds about putting a hatch in the front. I’ve not needed one up to now. Anyone think it’s needs a top hatch behind the engine??

Also programmed the radio for flap servos. 

 

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Edited by cymaz
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Oh dear...and I thought it was going well. A bit of a panic moment. The green covering on the underside is stuck directly onto the fuselage. In my defence I tried everything to get every bit off. 

Doing the first thinned coat of thinned non shrinking dope the green decided to let go and smeared over the bottom of the fuselage. Some liberal applications of non bloom thinners has wiped 90% of it off, the rest has gone deep into the balsa grain that sits just behind the uc plate. Hopefully with the nylon a base coat of 2k paint it shouldn't be very noticeable, it’s on the bottom under the wing seat at least.

Need to order some pin hinges and ca hinges, more dope, 3mm push rods. The rest should be in my junk drawers. I think I’ve got enough nylon.

 

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After looking through other Rc forums (😷) I found a couple of useful tips.

I made a small jig to get the pin hinge constant and in line. The small notch underneath will hopefully work to keep the hinge at a correct distance from the hinge line.

 

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I hope the hinges turn out like this below...

 

I will need a bit of practice on a bit of scrap

 

3C3F6FDE-5D79-4DC9-BDC1-A32D93FD505C.png

Edited by cymaz
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25 minutes ago, cymaz said:

After looking through other Rc forums (😷) I found a couple of useful tips.

I made a small jig to get the pin hinge constant and in line. The small notch underneath will hopefully work to keep the hinge at a correct distance from the hinge line.

 

099A5320-92CF-463E-BD81-F3C76112362D.jpeg

 

I hope the hinges turn out like this below...

 

I will need a bit of practice on a bit of scrap

 

3C3F6FDE-5D79-4DC9-BDC1-A32D93FD505C.png

Interesting jig cymaz, can you explain how it works as I'm a fan of pin hinges but it can be a challenge to get them in-line.

My favourite method is to clamp the leading and trailing edges together before they are built up and drill through both of them at the same time and I end up with perfectly aligned hinges.

Wouldn't work for Fowler flaps though.

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Yes, you’re correct Fowler flaps are probably not the correct term. 

I have the Robart jig for pin hinges, an excellent tool, also it’s worth getting the different size drill collars.

 

AC8A044F-B2AA-4410-A1A3-781856537AB5.png

 

I’ve done a few pictures to try and make my explanation more bearable. Where you want the centre of the hinge is marked by a line across the hinge line. The notch on the bottom of the jig keeps the holes the same distance from the edge. The centre is marked on the jig. After drilling the hinge is placed into the holes so that the  pin is in line with the hinge line

 

 

 

 

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Edited by cymaz
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While waiting for some bits to arrive, I might as well rough in the flaps. No servo reverse needed as Hitec and Align servos moves in opposite directions to the signal inputs. The pushrods are the old aileron rods. Horns were saved from a crashed model. Small ply plates face the horn bases top and bottom

No going back now...

 

 

 

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Edited by cymaz
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On 26/12/2023 at 20:38, cymaz said:

 

Yes, you’re correct Fowler flaps are probably not the correct term. 

I have the Robart jig for pin hinges, an excellent tool, also it’s worth getting the different size drill collars.

 

AC8A044F-B2AA-4410-A1A3-781856537AB5.png

 

I’ve done a few pictures to try and make my explanation more bearable. Where you want the centre of the hinge is marked by a line across the hinge line. The notch on the bottom of the jig keeps the holes the same distance from the edge. The centre is marked on the jig. After drilling the hinge is placed into the holes so that the  pin is in line with the hinge line

 

 

 

 

EC729579-83CB-4F37-A71D-FDD492D79C9B.jpeg

3645D6EB-1B27-45FD-AF77-6C8543BC8C0B.jpeg

34059E7C-3897-4785-97CC-89908D87D74C.jpeg

Can you show the hinges inserted (Into the blanks as drilled)so that a newbie , like me can further understand the concept please.

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I've roughed in one of the flaps to see how it works and where I can still measure. Balsa blocks were glued into the wing TE to provide a lot more support for the hinge. I may add some brass tube to re-enforce the gluing area.

The jig worked well. The wing TE went as planned, the TE of the  flap surface  had a strip of wood clamped as a packing piece. this meant that the drill entered just at the LE bevelled edge, keeping the knuckle right on the hinge line.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by cymaz
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Productive day....now stuff is arriving. Servo hatches and support frame should done. Beginning to put in the ailerons and the port flap.

I’ve added a picture of some servo covers I’ve found that will do for the flaps. I’ve no idea who made them. They’ve been in a draw for years but now have found a home. Does anyone know who might have made them??

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Rudder and elevators are now covered with nylon. The fuselage is ready to cover but it’s now too cold at the moment to work in the garage. 

I now have plenty of dope and thinner to complete everything.....when it gets above 1c 🥶 in the workshop

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4 hours ago, cymaz said:

Rudder and elevators are now covered with nylon. The fuselage is ready to cover but it’s now too cold at the moment to work in the garage. 

I now have plenty of dope and thinner to complete everything.....when it gets above 1c 🥶 in the workshop

Time to get a diesel heater ? ☺️ Keep nice and toasty.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Recovering the XL has now recommenced. I’ve not been entirely happy with the underside of the elevator but at least it won’t show. Hope to get all the tail area finished today. The fuselage sides and that bit is almost done. 

Pictures to follow in the week 📸

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Well, here we are. Progress has been excellent today. As the photos bear out, elevators installed and pinned ( not yet glued ). Rudder will be done soon, already to go though.

The pictures are before and after plus detritus.....

 

 

 

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Fuselage  ready for painter Anthony @ AJS Bodyworks to do his magic. I saw him earlier in the week, and asked if couldn’t do it. He agreed, so it’s base coat 2K white and with whatever he then decides to do. “ Flames !! It’s got to have flames” ...

That will be interesting to see what he does!

 

Now only the wings to start on

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For those who don’t know and who’ve never used nylon and dope, even thin diluted layers are important. 50/50 thinner and dope over about 4 coats. Then increase the concentration to about 75dope/25 thinners over the next 2-3 coats. You should end up with a varnish like shine .....

 

This then leaves a good layer for when you cover in nylon

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Once the nylon is placed onto the frame, it’s just a matter of liberalsoaking dope thinner through the fabric while gently rubbing into the layers of dope. The dope then softens and comes through the weave. As the thinners evaporate the dope hardens sticking the nylon onto the frame. The trick is to rub the thinners as it’s flashing off....and... keep the cloth in place, straight and not introduce creases. Wearing a face mask is essential  that filters out the vapours. 

It looks loose in an open frame....

 

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