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Slec Sky 40 and Vintage Glider


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1 minute ago, Rich Griff said:

Very good fuel economy, much better than glow, slowish speed model, not much engine speed/thrust needed to keep the Vs Electra, or super 60, or any other vintage style model aloft, so even for say a 15 mins flight ( or more ?? ), not much fuel needed so no need for a large fuel tank, so fit a smallish tank.

 

You will probably never run the paw absolutely flat out for long, if at all. You don't want to rip the wings off or have them "clap" ?

 

Learn how to start and run the paw.

 

 

 

Okay, sounds like some sound advice. Thanks 🙂👍🏻

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Posted (edited)

Managed to get a bit of a bargain, I needed a brushed ESC anyway and picked up this for £20 

 

Does anyone else have a Great Planes Electra? Any advice on what kind of battery/motor I should be looking at?

 

Also need to source a canopy and the covering is a bit ropey and I need the practice so I might recover it, similar colours as it's quite a nice design.

 

 

IMG_20240312_230327.jpg

IMG_20240312_230401.jpg

Edited by Hoochykins
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Posted (edited)
On 11/03/2024 at 14:16, Hoochykins said:

I have purchased a PAW 19 MKII for £60 with carb and muffler 😁

 

Now what do I put it in??

 

I am in the process of building the SLEC Coyote and it looks like I will be getting a Sky 40 so will go glow for that.

 

I want something vintage and large, a large glider or slow trainer kind of model. I do have to bear in mind the Coyote is only my first build using plans so if I will need something that isn't too challenging...

s-l1600.png

 

 

Received the engine today but it won't fully turn over, it's not locked up and I can move the crankshaft left and right and feel compression but I can't get it to turn past top dead centre. I didn't want to mess with the compression screw as I know it can jam if it's moved to far one way. 

 

I take it I should be able to turn the engine over fully? I mean if I can't how am I meant to start the thing...

Edited by Hoochykins
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Ignore me, I didn't realise how much compression these models have, once I stuck a prop on it turns over fine. Think it was just a bit too concerned about damaging it and didn't have any leverage to turn it past TDC only using the crank and my fingers.

 

Should I be worried to turn the compression screw to much in or out in the fear of getting the contrapiston stuck up or down?

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I would leave the compression screw where it is until you have the engine securely mounted in a test stand, a supply of diesel fuel and a suitable propeller. Also bear in mind that the silicon fuel tube which you can use on a glow engine will melt if introduced to diesel fuel. I believe that tygon tube which is available from anywhere which sells garden machinery is suitable for both diesel and petrol engines but I'm not certain because I've not run a diesel engine for many years. Whatever you do, don't try to start it with an electric starter.

 

For good starting techniques please refer tothe links in my post of 5th March.

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These have higher compression compared to glow and I'd be surprised if you could turn it over without a prop on! I wouldn't screw the comp in any further but you won't do any harm by unscrewing it. I'd leave it exactly where it is as there is a chance its at its last good running setting and if so will save a lot of grief trying to get close again, especially if you're new to diesels. Instructions usually tell you to increase compression from running setting a little for starting but none of my engines are exactly the same. Some like to be slightly under and some slightly over. I think you have to learn the feel of each engine, which is of course part of the fun! Tuning requires balancing compression and fuel mixture so is an iterative process. 

 

It probably took me 2 or 3 sessions of several hours each and a very worn out arm to get my first diesel running and learn the necessary 'flick' technique. Perseverance (or sheer refusal to be beaten) is the key!

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3 minutes ago, David Davis said:

I would leave the compression screw where it is until you have the engine securely mounted in a test stand, a supply of diesel fuel and a suitable propeller. Also bear in mind that the silicon fuel tube which you can use on a glow engine will melt if introduced to diesel fuel. I believe that tygon tube which is available from anywhere which sells garden machinery is suitable for both diesel and petrol engines but I'm not certain because I've not run a diesel engine for many years. Whatever you do, don't try to start it with an electric starter.

 

For good starting techniques please refer tothe links in my post of 5th March.

 

3 minutes ago, Dave Brooks said:

These have higher compression compared to glow and I'd be surprised if you could turn it over without a prop on! I wouldn't screw the comp in any further but you won't do any harm by unscrewing it. I'd leave it exactly where it is as there is a chance its at its last good running setting and if so will save a lot of grief trying to get close again, especially if you're new to diesels. Instructions usually tell you to increase compression from running setting a little for starting but none of my engines are exactly the same. Some like to be slightly under and some slightly over. I think you have to learn the feel of each engine, which is of course part of the fun! Tuning requires balancing compression and fuel mixture so is an iterative process. 

 

It probably took me 2 or 3 sessions of several hours each and a very worn out arm to get my first diesel running and learn the necessary 'flick' technique. Perseverance (or sheer refusal to be beaten) is the key!

 

Cheers guys. Was a bit concerned it has been screwed down all the way and the top piston got stuck down.

 

I've seen not to use a starter so that's all good. I'll get all my bits ordered and make up a test stand to get the motors running. It sounds like I've got some calibrating to do.

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I will be buying the below, didn't know if you guys had any input in good brands to use or places that sell all the gear for cheap to avoid me buying from multiple websites (less shipping costs)

 

Glow/nitro fuel
Diesel
Fuel pipes (nitro and diesel)
Fuel tank
Glow plug igniter
Glow plugs
Propellers
Test bracket (universal engine holder)
Engine mount
Covering (LighTex Pearlescent Purple and white)
3mm black striping tape

 

Or if I have missed anything glaringly obvious?

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43 minutes ago, Hoochykins said:

I will be buying the below, didn't know if you guys had any input in good brands to use or places that sell all the gear for cheap to avoid me buying from multiple websites (less shipping costs)

 

Glow/nitro fuel
Diesel
Fuel pipes (nitro and diesel)
Fuel tank
Glow plug igniter
Glow plugs
Propellers
Test bracket (universal engine holder)
Engine mount
Covering (LighTex Pearlescent Purple and white)
3mm black striping tape

 

Or if I have missed anything glaringly obvious?

 

Worth a try for all of your bits and they stock diesel, in my experience a reliable retailer who won't rip you off https://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=291_836

Edited by PDB
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Just a heads up Hooch. In the olden days Solarfilm used to react to diesel fuel causing it to wrinkle. I believe that Oracover/Profilm will resist diesel fuel. Best check that the film you intend to buy will be compatible with diesel fuel.

 

Solartex is compatible with diesel fuel.

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Sorry I should have given more info, the covering material in the list is to finish my current model, got a bit of a mixture of items in the list for various models.

 

Glow/nitro fuel
Diesel
Fuel pipes (nitro and diesel)
Fuel tank
Glow plug igniter
Glow plugs
Propellers
Engine mount

Test bracket (universal engine holder)

 

SLEC Coyote will require:

Covering (LighTex Pearlescent Purple and white)
3mm black striping tape

 

Didn't know if you guys had any strong recommendations on covering, I know it's a preference thing but I didn't want to spent £30 for covering at this point, wanted an in between that had some stretch as the Kavan film I used with the Vintage Model Club Basic Cub had zero stretch and had a white base layer which showed through at the edges once heated.

 

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I am pretty set on building the Super 60 for the PAW 19. I have compiled the below list of items:

 

Glow list (SC 25a)

Glow/nitro fuel

Glow plug igniter

Nitro fuel pipes

Glow plugs - From what I have read they need to be medium hot/hot, loads of numbers though, not quite sure. This is for the SC 25a.

 

Super 60 (diesel)

Propeller (would make sense to get the right size for the Super 60 and the PAW 19, saves buying one for testing the engines and another for the Super 60)

Fuel tank for the Super 60

Engine mount (not 100% this will fit the PAW 19)

Diesel

Diesel fuel pipes

 

NA

Test bracket (universal engine holder)

Test bed fuel tank

 

 

I am not sure on a few things like the glow plugs and fuel for each (as there are different ratios of mixes). Have I missed anything or made any big mistakes? If not I will get it all ordered.

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Does anyone know which glow plug is best suited to the SC 25a - looking online I am thinking get a hot and a medium but then there all these numbers and also T and B so not entirely sure.

 

Super 60 with PAW 19 - what propeller size would work best?

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3 minutes ago, Dave Brooks said:

Specs including recommended props and other instructions are available on PAWs website but if you want a simple recommendation I use 10 x 4 props on my PAW 19s in similar models and they work well.   

 

 

2 minutes ago, David Davis said:

A 10x4 or 10x6.

 

I know the upper limit and lower, just didn't know what would suit the Super 60. Thanks guys!

 

Just the glow plug now, thought that bit would be simple...

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22 minutes ago, Andy Stephenson said:

Make sure you get a genuine one as there are fake ones about...

 

OSNo8Plugs.jpg

 

They will bloody counterfeit anything won't they. I'll grab them from model shop Leeds so they should be all good. I'll keep an eye for that stamped logo 🙂

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I'm having a bit of a dilemma with the SLEC Coyote too, I'm not sure if to go motorless for a slap soarer or go with the electric motor design.

 

I do want a slope soarer but with my flying hours at zero I think it would be best to with something slower until I have got some flying in.

 

Are there any quite easy quick build slope soarers that are quite good for training? I don't want a RTF or a foamy, something that won't take weeks to build as I can see myself having a few brushes with the ground.

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3 hours ago, Hoochykins said:

 

They will bloody counterfeit anything won't they. I'll grab them from model shop Leeds so they should be all good. I'll keep an eye for that stamped logo 🙂

The problem is that even major retailers may have fallen into the trap of the counterfeit product. The illustration on the Leeds website clearly shows the wrong type of plug. To be clear, I'm not accusing them of selling fake plugs, it may be the case they just found a library picture on the web and unknowingly put it on the website so check them carefully wherever they come from.

 

OSNo8a.jpg

OS8.jpg

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