Levanter Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 I am with Ron. I have the KS230 (since the year dot) and more recently FET. I have many other Proxxon tools so I am a fan. The move towards building model boats justified the FET with the much higher capacity, carbide tipped saw and bevel capabilities. I cut my own planks from Mahogany, teak and other hard woods and that makes it work hard. Used also for household stuff. The drill and the disk sander are great. I wouldn't be without them. Levanter 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 Just a reminder to anyone who is thinking of buying a band saw or a rotary table saw : BEWARE they dont take prisoners and can bite. They also continue to rotate for a while when switched off. Think safety as blood stains the Balsa 😉. Seriously though please take care as even a flourescent light can make the blade apper stationary. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 31 minutes ago, Ace said: +1 for a bandsaw with a tilting table as ED. Changed my blade for a 1/4 x 14/16 tpi (std 6-8 tpi !) which I find leaves a clean cut without leaving a fuzz on balsa. Still cuts birch ply quickly. When cutting strip I attach a 1m length of straight planned wood to the fence so feed is absolutely straight as is the follow through. For triangle stock you need to start with an oblong which allows for the blade width which is near as dam it 1/16th. Even cuts trailing edge which I also use as wing rib packers when building which is great for building in washout when placed at an angle. As there is no gauge on the fence I have a selection of accurate Beech lengths that I use to space the blade/fence, this ensures consistency. A quick check in a piece of scrap - adjust as required and away you go. Chinese for £60 - can't compete. Entry Proxxon - bandsaw out performs for me. Fancy Proxxon at £400 ish (£300 form Germany + import now?) - definitely a bandsaw. Not mine but something like this. That all said if space is at a premium you can't really hump/store a bandsaw under the bench. That attached saw is very similar to my table top Band saw. Different brands are just a different colour but most likely from same factory in China. The only things ive had to replace in the 10+ years apart from consumables is a tyre on the top wheel as they can perish . I wouldnt hesitate to buy another . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heather Posted April 27 Author Share Posted April 27 36 minutes ago, Ron Gray said: I must admit that I paid closer to £300 for mine and from memory it came from Germany. Was that a few years ago before the hyper inflation and when we were still in the EU. Best I have seen is £420, but also seen Microlux/Micromart model that looks very similar for £325. Moot though as both out of my league for the use I would get out of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heather Posted April 27 Author Share Posted April 27 1 hour ago, Ace said: +1 for a bandsaw with a tilting table as ED. Changed my blade for a 1/4 x 14/16 tpi (std 6-8 tpi !) which I find leaves a clean cut without leaving a fuzz on balsa. Still cuts birch ply quickly. When cutting strip I attach a 1m length of straight planned wood to the fence so feed is absolutely straight as is the follow through. For triangle stock you need to start with an oblong which allows for the blade width which is near as dam it 1/16th. Even cuts trailing edge which I also use as wing rib packers when building which is great for building in washout when placed at an angle. As there is no gauge on the fence I have a selection of accurate Beech lengths that I use to space the blade/fence, this ensures consistency. A quick check in a piece of scrap - adjust as required and away you go. Chinese for £60 - can't compete. Entry Proxxon - bandsaw out performs for me. Fancy Proxxon at £400 ish (£300 form Germany + import now?) - definitely a bandsaw. Not mine but something like this. That all said if space is at a premium you can't really hump/store a bandsaw under the bench. How big/heavy is that bandsaw. I don't have a permanent workshop so what attracted me by the mini table saw was being able to store it away in a draw or cupboard when I don't need it and that it does need much table space on the rare occasions when I would need to use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 Mine Band saw is about 30 in tall and from memory weighs about 15Kg ish . Not too heavy to lift about. I have taken mine into the garden to cut longer pieces than my workspace allows . Forgot to say that it also has a facility to connect a vacuum to stop saw dust going everywhere although you will have to make up some sort of adapter as it too big for normal vac cleaners 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 10 hours ago, Nigel Heather said: How big/heavy is that bandsaw. Mine is also the same size/weight as ED's. Looks identical to the silverline so probably made in the same factory, purchased 15yrs ago for £69.95 and would buy another tomorrow if it packed up. It is a bit of a lump to move around. Mine along with the disc/belt sander are linked to the vacuum using waste pipe. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyinFlynn Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 On 26/04/2024 at 10:59, FlyinFlynn said: As for accuracy or rather the claimed lack of accuracy of the cheap less expensive Chinese models how accurate do you need to to be? The only place I can see where cheaper materials between the two will make a difference will be in the bearings and the blade. The blade is replaceable and you would need to use it a lot for the bearings to become an issue. I take that back.. there is somewhere else you might find the reason for the cheaper cost... the machining of the blade shaft! This one is going back, a 3 mm kerf is a bit out of order! VID_20240511_092340.mp4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Dance 1 Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 Flynn, that's called a wobble saw,used for cutting dados in furniture making, not often needed in modelmaking and also illegal to use in the UK. 😀 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Billinge Posted August 1 Share Posted August 1 I have a seppach bandsaw which is nice for the cross cuts and for following a curved line; but no good for ripping nice straight lines lengthwise on a bit of wood or ply. Even if you set up a fence.... The blade has a tendancy to wander off, so like ripping a nice straight bit off a plank, it's rubbish for. Shame; because it wasn't cheap. KB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted August 1 Share Posted August 1 I bought a steppach.... terrible, went to landfill I suspect after taking it to my council tip ..... just don't go there. False economy ..... pay the extra and get something decent..... I can't give an example because I didn't bother replacing it..... if you are looking for smaller hobby grade bench tools ....... proxxon...... simples. Toto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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