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Keith Billinge

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Everything posted by Keith Billinge

  1. I do have a model covering iron I bough from Hobby King some time ago but I always use this. You can pick one up on Ebay for less than a tenner and they work great for covering. It's the Hinari travel iron.
  2. I buy the standoffs I need from firms on ebay. They are relatively cheap and you can get loads of different sizes. They come in aluminium and you can specify a larger diameter if you're worried about them being up to the job. I'm currently building a Wot4 and went for M5 Standoffs to accomodate M4 bolts and they work fine. I often include a hard rubber spacer behind the motor mounts but on the front of the standoff to give some vibration dampening. You can always add washers for more down/side thrust. KB
  3. The intersting thing about brushless electric motors is if you try and stall one by say...... feeding your fingers into the prop. As it slows, due to the resitance of said fingers, the electrical resistance of the motor goes up and the circuit (Via the ESC) compensates by instantly drawing more current and adding more force to the spinning propeller. This is due to Ohm's Law (V=I x R). Stalling an IC motor by feeding fingers in, is actually safer beacause onece you've stalled it; it generally stops.
  4. Yes It's nice on here, you have the freedom to politely disagree and know that people won't generally be baying for your blood and surrounding your house with a gang of villagers waving torches. Places like this, on the internet, are rare these days KB
  5. Trying to get my clubmates interested in a bit of streamer combat but there was no interest when I last suggested it. Makes me sad! It looks like a hoot!
  6. Is the STL file available for the 3D printed blades? Best Wishes Keith B
  7. Thanks for that Gents Six and a half quid for 50Meters.....Better than the crazy prices for covering film!
  8. I'm going to buy some brown paper but there's loads of choice on Amazon. They seem to vary from 85g/sm to about 100g/sm what would you suggest is a decent place to start? They also vary wildly in price. KB
  9. Dont forget the Swizzle Stick. A design by Peter Miller on these very forums. Easy to build and great fun to fly.
  10. Yes go on the Facbook group and the plans are available for all their models LINK Or I have also attached the OOWAH plan below. I have lots of flying wing type models and plank wings like this always need a very forward CG. I haven't flown the OOWAH yet but the CG looks about right to me. Oowah Plan-1.pdf
  11. Plan shows it 7-10mm in front of the main spar. Not sure what % that is....
  12. The Essex Balsa Dust Factory (AKA The Spunkwerx) has been working double shifts again....... The Oowah! Ready for flight testing, in case we ever get a weekend where it's not blowing a gale or not raining stair rods!
  13. OOOh nice model. But you could have all your fingers off at once with that baby...... Not terribly useful once you've built it.
  14. You could have the same argument about what's "Customary" and what's "Traditional". It's rather an arbitrary thing. KB
  15. It's a matter of personal taste. I just feel the controls fall to hand nicely on the zorro, but I realise it's not for everyone. It has the same number of channels and the same trims as a big radio. It's a great little package and the 4-in-1 module will let you bind to almost any receiver no matter what the brand or protocol. I'm still getting used to mine and I find EdgeTX a bit of a steep learning curve but You-Tube is your friend for learning anything these days.
  16. It's definately a matter of personal taste
  17. Rather than the Radiomaster TX16 I bought the Radiomaster Zorro. 99% the same functionality as the TX16 in a very much smaller and more ergonomic box. I also have a Spektrum NX8 but the receivers have got so pricey I am mostly playing with the Zorro. KB
  18. Alright you lot......If I cant have my Japanese plane I'd love to see an Arado Blitz Ar234 with twin 50mm EDF's A hand launch and belly lander would be fine.
  19. I really like the idea of something Japanese. The German, US and UK WW2 planes are constantly modelled, but there aren't many kits for the Zero or the Nakajima. Maybe instead of the Mosquito a Betty Bomber would be a better subject? I'd like the model to be a belly lander and of similar scale to the FW190. The Japanese had some interesting stuff with fixed undercarriage too. Torpedo bombers and dive bombers. There were also a wide range of colour schemes. KB
  20. I generally attach the speed flea to the battery balance lead after it's plugged into the plane. So I havenet noticed the problem you describe. Also the person that's worried about 1 second updates. That just the screen the thing runs ant some crazy Mhz speed to actually do the speed calculations, but only updates the scree every 1 sec. You pull the barttery and the speedflea out of the model upon landing and it gives you the max speed and the max altitude etc... The clubmate with the best eyes has to read it though. Because it's a bit crap in direct sunshine.
  21. Buy some silicon rubber spring substitutes and once you dial them in, they stay dialled. No more problems levelling the bed. Buy Here
  22. I have an Ender 3 V2 and it's cheap & cheerful. Not as fast as some printers out there but spares and upgrades are easy to source and the popularity of the printer means you can easily get help if you get stuck. There is a learning curve to owning and using a 3D printer. so. it pays not to buy one that only 4 people in Myanmar have bought. KB
  23. Once your sure they are discharged and safe; pop them into your local supermarket and near the checkout there's always a battery recycling thingy. They go to get a new life in a Tesla or something? KB
  24. I swear by my Speed Flea. Only 9g and it's great! Just plug into the balance lead on any lipo and wait for satellite lock. KB
  25. Welcome to the hobby. Be carefull it's very addictive! KB
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