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Warbirds Replicas Tempest - A VLOG


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You know I knew I should have videoed that bit but only thought about it afterwards! The wings come with pre cut slots which go through the top veneer and about 2/3rds of the foam. I just used my razor saw to cut through the balsa LE and TE then the remaining foam and veneer. I was going to use my panel saw (similar butchery to that which Richard adopted) but decided that the razor saw would be a bit more subtle! A hacksaw blade would also do the job well. Regarding the angle for the dihedral, tbh I did it by eye, I placed each cut section flat on the workbench with the end over the edge then used a sanding board to sand back to an angle on both mating surfaces. It doesn’t need to be too much, in fact I overdid it on the first one so had to sand it back a bit. I try to get the best fit that I can between the finished mating surfaces but if you use Goriila Glue brown (the foaming one) then it doesn’t matter too much if there is a bit of a gap (no more than 2mm?). If you are using a non foaming glue such as epoxy then you want a good close fit between the panels.

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Thanks Ron.

 

This is probably the most (only)  scary part of the build. 

 

Wouldn't it be easier to cut the veneer for the dihedral braces while each wing is in one piece? Do you know if it's full depth (both veneers), or just one?  I haven't opened my box yet....

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I think people may have felt a bit apprehensive about positioning the cut but the wings already have that in place, through the top veneer and 2/3rds through the foam core so it is an easy cut to make, don’t be afraid of it. The sanding to an angle is also really easy, you can do it like I did or as Richard did with the sandpaper on the board, holding the wing at an angle and caressing it backwards and forwards a few times on the sand paper (I must admit that I prefer my way!).

 

The dihedral braces are full depth, one just behind the LE (where it meets the foam core) and one further back approx mid chord. You can form the cuts for these (they are only thin ply) before you cut the wings, after you’ve cut them or as I’m going to do, after I’ve joined them. I will do a vid including this bit of work but I plan to use a long thin bladed knife (old kitchen knife) to slice right through the wing then use a hacksaw blade following the slice to form the slot. I will then glue them in place with Gorilla Glue brown - simples!

 

Like most WR kits (well maybe not the Mustang) don’t overthink it coz that’s the route to madness. You’ve got to remember who designed this (I mean the boys, not Richard and defo forget Paul - Paul who?) and I suspect they were under the influence of something at the time anyway.

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Posted (edited)

Hi Ron, 

I recon the piece I thought was  for the underside of the front of the wing goes under the cowl between F2 and F3. 

The motor support blocks are on the 6mm laser cut sheet 

20240521_231943.jpg

20240521_234653.jpg

Edited by Eric Robson
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Posted (edited)

Yes, that’s where I felt it goes as there is no other place for it!

 

Those 6mm pieces are the ones I had in the box but didn’t find them, hence my note in the latest video! Did you find the 2 blocks that go at an angle either side of the motor support thrust strut at the top of the fuselage, between F1 and F2?

Edited by Ron Gray
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My thoughts on the small blocks are to fit them ar the bottom, forward of the longer two to beef up the support for the cowl. From what I can remember Richard added the ply piece at the top as F1 broke away on a heavy landing. Adding the blocks to the bottom between F1 and F2 would be more beneficial.

It still leaves the area under the front of the wing from F3 back to fill. There is enough offcuts to do this but nothing included in the kit.

I have a funeral to attend today so not much chance for progress and heavy rain all day, the joys of an English summer. 

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The smaller of the 2 block pairs go at the bottom between F1 and F2, that’s how Richard built his but he also retro fitted, along with the strut, 2 pieces diagonally either side of the strut to further beef up the top. I don’t think those are in the kit so I’ll raid the s rap box!

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On 21/05/2024 at 14:21, Ron Gray said:

Part 7 - Bits and pieces

 

 

where do you get those extra fast Perma Grit sanding blocks from Ron? I could only get the ultra slow version. Probably needs an hardware upgrade 😃

  • Haha 1
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