richard dalgleish Posted October 18, 2024 Author Share Posted October 18, 2024 Quick update, working on the fin and the rudder. Again, typical BT construction. More to follow. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard dalgleish Posted October 30, 2024 Author Share Posted October 30, 2024 Rudder almost finished, I'll Dremel out the centre core before covering. Onto the fuselage formers next. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan Posted October 31, 2024 Share Posted October 31, 2024 Just started my own build today from Brian Taylor 60" FW190 A4 plans so I'll follow yours with great interest! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Nolan Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 I have just started to build the Hawker Typhoon purchased from Sarik and would like to join in on this very informative group. I am a retired commercial pilot and have built a Sig Kadet and a 6ft Piper Cub. I am most interested in building scale RC models 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard dalgleish Posted January 11 Author Share Posted January 11 Been a while since I posted, being working on the fuselage. Ive decided to mount the servos above the tank and as far forward as possible as I need to get the tank as low as possible, it will mean having a cut out in the leading edge of the wing to the clear the tank. More to follow. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 You, have the brass servo spacer / rivets the wrong way around on the two outside servos. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard dalgleish Posted January 11 Author Share Posted January 11 6 minutes ago, Paul De Tourtoulon said: You, have the brass servo spacer / rivets the wrong way around on the two outside servos. Good spot, just testing to see if anyone notices😀 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Nolan Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 Richard, I have just purchased the Brian Taylor Typhoon kit from Sarik and have studied the plans. Has Brian or anybody else produced a building instructions document? If I have any specific questions about the construction can I ask them on this forum? I have tried a number of times to contact the company Unitracks who make the retractable undercarriage. Do you have a current email address? I have purchased the Saito FA 125a 4 stroke engine for the model. Do you know of anybody who has used this engine in a typhoon? Thanks Mike Nolan Sydney Australia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Bradly Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 (edited) Mike, start your own thread on yours and it will get followed by others. Ask away about anything, people are always keen to offer their wisdom. I can't comment on the BT Typhoon specifically, but i have built or at least have 3 or 4 BT plans. (And have built a different designer's Typhoon). I'm not aware of any specific building instructions document. Other builders threads will be about as good as you will get, there will be several on rcscalebuilder.com All the instructions needed for a reasonably competent/experienced/enthusiastic builder are on his plans, as this is the modeler who he aimed his models at. If this isn't you, don't for one second let it put you off, just study things a bit more, and ask plenty of questions! I don't know if unitracts are in existence anymore, others may comment. Unfortunately, re-engineering to accommodate different retracts is a common occurrence. Re the Saito, a great choice. Edited January 12 by Dale Bradly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard dalgleish Posted January 12 Author Share Posted January 12 10 hours ago, Mike Nolan said: Richard, I have just purchased the Brian Taylor Typhoon kit from Sarik and have studied the plans. Has Brian or anybody else produced a building instructions document? If I have any specific questions about the construction can I ask them on this forum? I have tried a number of times to contact the company Unitracks who make the retractable undercarriage. Do you have a current email address? I have purchased the Saito FA 125a 4 stroke engine for the model. Do you know of anybody who has used this engine in a typhoon? Thanks Mike Nolan Sydney Australia Hi Mike There are no build instructions with any of Brian’s plans, you’ll find all the details and info on the plans. Most people swap out the balsa wing braces for plywood and swap the balsa spars for hardwood but apart from that just follow the plan. As far as I know Unitracts are no longer in business, so you are limited on choice of retracts, ideally they should be 96 degree units, the closest you’ll get off the shelf is 95 degrees. On my first Tyhoon I had some custom made, I’m just trying to decide whether to use them again or buy some Electron units. As for your engine choice I think the Saito will be underpowered, my first Typhoon started life with a Saito 30 petrol then I swapped it out for a Laser 155. I’m using a Laser 155 this time. I have seen them flown on Laser 150s and 180s. Bear in mind the all up weight will be about 16lbs if you can keep the tail end weight down, my first one was 17lb including nearly 3lb of lead, saying that it flew great and landed at walking speed. Regards 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Nolan Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 Dale and Richard, thanks for your replies. I have another question regarding the typhoon which relates to wing rib 5. On the plan view of the drawing, it shows the ply doubler on the inside of rib 5 and the bottom spar passing through the ply doubler. However, the ply doubler as supplied by Sarik in the kit does not have a cutout on the ply doubler for the spar. see attached pictures. The drawing also shows a second rib alongside of rib 5. Can you comment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Nolan Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 Dale, Richard, the drawing that shows the 1/4" by 1/4" front and rear top spars is joined at the centre by a splice joint. Am i correct in assuming that this joint is required to allow for the fact that the wing ribs do not have a uniform thickness, and the splice joint allows the spars to angle down towards the wing tip? The written comment on the drawing says" Top spar (similar for rear top spar" see photo. A second question relates to the 'Hard balsa dihedral brace' which is shown on the drawing as being installed between Rib 6 and 4 passing through rib 5. I dont see how this is possible so obviously i am wrong or the drawing is. Can you advise? see photo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard dalgleish Posted January 13 Author Share Posted January 13 Back on topic, Fuel tank cradle/support installed. The remaining fuselage formers traced and marked out. More to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard dalgleish Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 Fuselage formers cut out, thought I would weigh them before cutting the centres out just to see how much weight saving there is. More to follow. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 (edited) Answer is about half. That another 20g, not only. The second sentence is a philosophy. Edited January 27 by Don Fry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Nolan Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 Richard your photos are of great assistance. Have you built the wing yet and will you be posting photos of it. regards mike nolan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard dalgleish Posted January 30 Author Share Posted January 30 9 hours ago, Mike Nolan said: Richard your photos are of great assistance. Have you built the wing yet and will you be posting photos of it. regards mike nolan Hi Mike i haven’t built the wing yet, but I will be posting pics. i have a load of pictures of my first Typhoon. PM me your email address and I will send you pictures, if you want me to. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Freeman 3 Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 Richard, I see you are a true scratch builder with cutting your own parts, do you use the pin method for marking the wood. The half formers on the plan make it hard for me. I do not mind cutting the parts but find the marking the wood the biggest challenge. I have a Traplet short kit for this plan, Tony Stephenson gave it to me when our house was destroyed in a fire. Still on my must build list 11 years on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard dalgleish Posted January 30 Author Share Posted January 30 3 hours ago, Chris Freeman 3 said: Richard, I see you are a true scratch builder with cutting your own parts, do you use the pin method for marking the wood. The half formers on the plan make it hard for me. I do not mind cutting the parts but find the marking the wood the biggest challenge. I have a Traplet short kit for this plan, Tony Stephenson gave it to me when our house was destroyed in a fire. Still on my must build list 11 years on! Hi Chris I find the best method is to trace the parts, prick through with a pin and join the dots. The band saw makes light work of the cutting out the parts. The good thing about cutting your own parts is that you are in control of the wood quality, and it doesn't take that long to have a set of parts cut out. Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Rickett 102 Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 That's interesting Richard, why do you prefer the pin prick method instead of good old fashioned carbon paper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard dalgleish Posted January 30 Author Share Posted January 30 24 minutes ago, John Rickett 102 said: That's interesting Richard, why do you prefer the pin prick method instead of good old fashioned carbon paper? Hi John I don't think I have ever tried the carbon paper method, I do quite enjoy the pin pricking and dot joining.😃 Can you still buy carbon paper? Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 I did try photocopying, then ironing the ink on the balsa,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 I photo copy then cut the item out and Prit stick it on the balsa, if it is too big for the printer I trace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Rickett 102 Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 Richard, I've a box of A4 sheets, enough to last until I'm 999 which is unlikely, pm your address and I'll send you some. I must have had this box for 30 years and despite building many models in that time, have only worn out a few - they last forever. My thoughts are that tracing through using carbon paper will only introduce one error, whereas the pinprick method could introduce two, one if the pinpricks are not exactly in the centre of the line and another when the dots are lined up with the french curve. If you use, say, a red or green ball point pen, you can see on the plan all the lines that you've covered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Nolan Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 (edited) Richard Thanks for the offer to send the Typhoon pictures. Thank you Mike Edited January 31 by Martin Harris - Moderator Removed email address - we normally advise using PMs to avoid security/spam issues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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