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Vintage Model Collection


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I have in the past used the washing powder and pan of water method. Strip of as many parts as possible, and bung the lot into an old pan filled with water and a dishwasher / laundry washer tablet. Bring to the boil, and watch the grime magically float off. Agoitate the more stubborn areas with an old toothbrush, and thenn let the lot cool off and dry thouroughly. Lube it all well with WD40 or similar, and wipe off the surplus. Reassemble, slosh a bit of 3in1 oil inside, and allow tghe surplus to drain off through the plughole - fit a nice new shiny glowplug, and its as good as new.
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Hi All,
 
Fairy power spray, works like magic. I use an old tupper ware box and iether strip the engine or just drop it in whole and spray the thing with power spray. Leave for about 15 minutes. take out the parts or whole engine and rinse off in warm water. For really stuborn grot do it again and scrub with a tooth brush. Leave to dry. Rebuild using afterrun oil !, you did remember to mark the position of the mating parts didn't you. or in the case of a fully built clean, make sure the glow plug has been removed, after run oil in the exhaust port and inlet, then turn over by hand and leave it for half an hour. WD 40's OK for repelling moisture, but if thats all you use it will still gum up again if left for any length of time, and 3in1 is a definated nono if you intend to leave the engine unrun for any length of time.Clamp it in the test bed and play. don't forget the after run oil before laying it up again.
Don't use any abrasives.
 
Cheers,
 
Chris.
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Thanks for the tups guys,Ive taken the head off but the piston is solid.,The engine has come apart quite easiy the back plate is stuck at present but Ill give it a soak tomorrow.All the other engines turn over fine.The models are built very well and feel a bit heavy.But I think they have been built  in a normal way for the age they are.Im missing the stays between the wings for 2 biplanes but I have the plans for 2 bipes as well.hoping thry are the right ones.One is for the Stringalong so that will not be a problemI ought to write a list of the models and work on them in that order but the Stringalong is the 1 I want to get done first,and my instructor wants me to do the roughest trainer first,so the trainer will be 3rd
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Ive removed the back plate and carb,now I need to soak it.Ive found a suitable container,the wheel centre from a Shogun.There is a bit of black in there but quite clean.Ivr removed the top,Ithink the next part would come off,it has 2 lengths of head screws,which indicates this,but I think this is what the piston is stuck in,so haveni tried to remove it yet.The carb is also seized as well.
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You got a really nice collection there mate, im still trying to get my cousin to hand over all his old gear! He has a lot of stuff he never flew including an interesting Bi-Plane (this is all a good 25 years old), He says can have it all but just doesnt seem to be "in" when i suggest i come round haha.
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Frustrating,when I unpacked everything it was a bit of a shockas to the task ahead,but once Id made a mental list today has been clearer.Model aircraft are built to fly.This is the direction yourcousin needs to think.Is he someone who built without intending to fly,or did he retire and just wont let go?
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Stephen,
 
Just looked at the pic's. The carb is a plastic Perry by the looks of it, be very carefull how you clean it. Years ago a mate of mine tried to clean a similar carb from a Veco 19 car engine, I think he dipped an old tooth brush in petrol and tried that way. The carb turned into a molten blob, a whole load of stuff that works on other types of carb may have the same effect. The rubber o rings are a pain as well.
 
Cheers,
 
Chris.
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Stephen & BB
Another tip NEVER use WD 40 on plastic parts (unless you know different 'cos there are many different plastics of course  ) I remember spraying the battery case on a Futaba Tx to prevent corrosion of terminals (back in the old days again) The whole thing changed shape under the pressure  of the sprung load .
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