Nick Cripps

Remove all the screws and the canopy then put a drop of cyano in each screw hole to harden the threads. Leave it for several minutes until the cyano is completely dry and then reassemble. No need for glue, the hardened threads in the balsa will be more than adequate to retain the canopy.

It looks to me that the connection on top of the aileron is cosmetic only, and probably just a short length of elastic to mimic the pull-pull arrangement on the full-size.

Andy, can you please explain why I was able to renew my CAA registration when renewing my BMFA membership in December yet there are several of my club fellow members who are currently unable to do so? This is despite the CAA expiry date being the same (21st February).

Merry Christmas to all on the forum.

Hanky Planky? I've got one of those... except Nigel Hawes called it the "Smart Dart" 😁

Looking on the BMFA's club finder here, there are 7 clubs within 20 miles of Exeter. Not the best time of year to be doing it but spend a few hours visiting a few of them and have a chat with some of the members there. If the clubs are anything like my local club, you'll find plenty of people of a similar age to you who will be only too willing to talk to you and share their experiences. What have you got to lose?

Mine arrived this morning. Yet to read it.

Looking forward to it, Steve. Where does it figure in the build queue?

Sorry to hear your sad news, Jon. My condolences to you and your family.

Just to expand on item 2: the charger has a power output of 55W which means that the maximum current you can charge a 3s battery to will be 55/12.6 (Watts/Volts) = 4.36A. As Frank says though, most people limit the charging rate to 1C (ie 2.2A) which helps to extend battery life. You might find these guides on the 4-Max website here useful to expand your knowledge on the care of batteries and electric flight in general.

Live long and prosper!

Top man!

And if you need more nose weight, put a chip in its beak!

I must give that a go. There is a video describing this process on the Ghost Squadron website here. I've also had some success using contact adhesive. Run a bead of contact adhesive along the top of each rib, place the sheeting on top and move it around a bit to spread the glue a little. Then put aliphatic glue along the spar and LE and, once the contact adhesive is dry, press the sheeting in place and add pegs/pins. This is very much a one chance process though so you have to be accurate!

Still watching from the sidelines, EB.

Which switch is damaged? It may not be an essential one for your early stages of learning if, for example, it operates one of the auxiliary channels such as retracts. Alternatively, give Al's Hobbies a call in Milton Keynes. They have an ex-Spektrum technician who does their radio repairs and may be able to do a while-you-wait repair on your broken switch.

Interesting that the history mentions previous owners included Derek Knight and David Pridham. I wonder if these are the same people who run KP Aero and produce small free-flight equipment?

Velcro!

I think I'm right in saying that the K&S tube sizes and wall thickness are designed to fit inside one another as you step up/down in tube diameter. That means that you would need 5/16" diameter piano wire for a sliding fit. Doing some simple sums confirms this as the wall thickness of 0.014 is a touch under 1/64 so with an od of 11/32, subtract 2 x 1/64 and you get 5/16. Note also that 5/16 is just under 8mm so if the fit is a bit loose then go up to 8mm. Have you got any suitable size drills to test in the tube? As for suppliers, there are plenty to be found using your favourite search engine.

And me...

A former Hobbystores employee told me that he has half a dozen buried under his patio!

Thanks, ED, more useful info. I replaced the ASP with a new SC91FS bought at Don Valley earlier this year (for a good price!). I have to say it runs very well with a steady idle, good pick-up and plenty of power.

Hmm, what size are Laser crankpins? 🤔

I'd assumed that the pin would be hardened and then ground to diameter for the big end?

Thanks, Jon, I'll look into that.