FlyinBrian

Hobby King film is very very good for the price, if price is no object I would go for Oracover / Profilm Not yet tried the McGregor film Edited By FlyinBrian on 02/12/2020 23:16:59

Come to Daddy

Just renewed my BMFA and CAA with no issues

Yes please

Yes please!

My last Wot4 Foam-E cost me £130 delivered from Kings Lynn Model shop (21/2 tears ago) , excellent value I thought. It's now shown at £137.00 still VG value in my view.

Why not just use a wire joiner for the elevators as per most sport models. Depending on the elevator thickness say 14 or 12 gauge piano wire. I'd use a pushrod for elevator control and pull pull arrangement for the rudder

Try Servo Shop / Steve Webb

I have used a few Turnigy "Plush" ESCs and they seem v good

I second MattyBs choice of Turnigy Reaktor charger.   Details on converting a server PSU here Edited By FlyinBrian on 15/10/2020 18:08:38

Are you sure there should be two, on some engines the gudgeon pin can only be put in from one side of the piston, on the other side of the piston the hole has a step to prevent the pin going all the way through. If indeed you need two, and you have one of them do you know anyone with a lathe who can copy the one you have, I thing they are made from nylon but possibly something like PTFE.

I recently subscribed to digital (as well as print) but can not find how to read it online.

Review on Youtube here Review

"I can send pictures of this if it interests anyone." Yes please Graham - Love the colour scheme Edited By FlyinBrian on 02/10/2020 12:05:48

My favourite film is Profilm / Oracover but it is expensive. I find HK film nearly as good but the backing is a pain to remove. I never really liked Solarfilm but Solartex was excellent. When tacking down I use a medium heat (film should just start to curl when a piece is laid on the sole of the iron) Once I have secured all round I use a heat gun if on open structure DO NOT OVERSHRINK or it will loosen in sunlight. Heat just enough to get the film taut. On sheet surfaces start at one end and work your way along with the iron so as to push the air out as you go, again don't overheat and press the film down with a smooth cloth or tissue as you go. Some people use a sock over the iron to prevent marking but if you are gentle you should not need it.

Do you mean rudder or fin? If it is balsa to balsa then PVA, CA or epoxy will be fine   If you mean glue rudder hinges to the fin then CA or epoxy.   Edited By FlyinBrian on 02/10/2020 11:44:12

I emailed the seller saying his description was incorrect, he acknowledged my email and altered the listing.

Posted by Richard Clark 2 on 31/07/2020 07:08:36: Posted by Frank Skilbeck on 30/07/2020 22:31:42: Can't also help thinking that there is a niche in the market for good quality fibreglass fuselage with foam veneered wing gliders, a few years ago I picked up a part built Multiplex Fiesta, while it won't perform like a mouldie it does fly really well and just about always accompanies me to the slope.   In the '70s I used to fly typical .60 sized aerobatic models, I worked out that to get one into the air, say my "Super Star" cost me c £350.00. Inflation since 1970 means that 350.00 in 1970  is now worth over £5,000. Ok this included engine, retracts, and radio but it makes the Alpina seem a bargain Edited By FlyinBrian on 27/09/2020 08:51:16

I have one of the early JR DSX9 systems which used the Spektrum DSM2 protocol, it is now 11 years old, I have used JR Rxs, Spektrum Rxs and Orange Rxs all have been fine. No glitches or failures! The only crash I suffered was due to the Rx battery going flat in the air which can not be blamed on the radio. I checked the voltage after the crash and the battery showed 4.2 volts with no load. I have also been using a Futaba T14SG for almost 2 years with mainly Futaba rx but also a few FrSky rx. Again no issues at all. Our club uses Futaba, FrSky, Hitec and Spektrum kit and all seem to perform well. Ensure you install the equipment properly and use adequate capacity batteries and all modern kit works well.

If you set up your tx timer to run when the throttle is above say 20% and set it at 8 minutes you will get a 10 min flight time if you a/ fly at less than full power most of the time and b/ climb high and do some gliding for a minute or two. My Whizza is fast and climbs like a homesick angel but 10 min flights are normal with 20 to 25% left in the pack afterwards (4Max 2200 LiPOs)

Tony beat me to it, I have had two cowls from FG specialities, price is reasonable but shipping can be expensive - c $20 however will be cheaper than an original bought in the UK. I did not have to pay duty on mine.

I have found stock control at NEXUS and RC World Ltd to be very good, If it says its in stock it is! Even at shows NEXUS know what they have available, which is just as it should be, Paul will not even open up his stall until his stock control is online.

A petrol engine will need a good exhaust (canister) to be reasonably quiet, Probably cost c100.00 for header and can. Fuel cheap and easy to obtain, fuel consumption low. Four stroke glow, great sound reasonably quiet but glow fuel is expensive - normally run on 10% nitro so c22.00 gallon - on the plus side they are frugal on fuel. 500cc will last a 120 4 stroke glow about 15mins MVVS 30cc petrol two stroke- noisy if not on a pipe / canister. MVVS pipe and header will be over 100.00

Piano wire is no longer the cheap product it used to be, good stuff is worth the cost, The three suppliers mentioned above are good but beware buying on Ebay.

I always feel that a well repaired model is like having a FREE new model. I often leave wreckage in the corner of the workshop for ages while I cogitate how to repair it. Eventually it will get fixed (or dumped). I feel defeated if I have to scrap a model.