Engine Doctor

Hi Gliggsy. Ask ten people and you will get ten different answers. Why not look at what other members of your club fly and see what excites you. The only drawback I can see is the size you are looking at . Not many I/C models of that size around unless you want to build from a plan. As said earlier the OS la 10 and 15 are very easy to use engines and they are quiet so shouldn't upset any neighbours . Good luck and welcome to the wonderful world of IC.

I'm a great fan of YS engines as they are so powerful and reliable. You say that you ran it up on straight fuel ! Ok for on the ground stuff but YS's need 20% nitro fuel for best performance and reliability.I run mine on 20% nitro with a 17% synthetic oil content from Southern models .Model Technics also do a Beckrah YS brew but its very expensive . I have a YS 63 that's been in a Majestic for 10 years with regular use and the only maintenance needed has been one set of bearings. Are you conversant with the plumbing requirements of the YS ? and did you get a check valve with the engine? Another requirement is a good quality fuel tank as they will pressurise the tank to 10 to 13 PSI. Do use and enjoy it you will not regret it as they are brilliant engines. ps £65 was a bargain

Hi . When you strip and clean the carb make sure you dont forget to remove the screw in fuel nipple . The chamber behind that will hold bit of debris . Its often overlooked as the nipple appears clear and blows through ok but when reassembled the bits move and block the jets , so remove and clean .Its happened a few times at our club when a member has said they have stripped and cleaned the carb but it still plays up. Its now the first thing I check. The last engine that had this problem was a Saito . When checked it had some pieces of stuff that looked like carpet fibers !! A decent filter clunk like a sintered metal clunk( by Ripmax or Du-Bro) will prevent this .Hope you get it sorted .

The sintered clunks are I believe made from bronze and are far superior to gauze or felt filters .They are also made from stainless steel but not for our use at the moment unless anyone knows differently. I fit them in all my models including the petrol jobs. My glow models use either 10% or 20% nitro . The ones in the filler tank show no signs of corrosion or green discoloration after some years of immersion so obviously no problem . Whatever the engine manufacturers recommend they dont fly the models that get air leaks in the fuel line and go dead-stick ! So its continued use of sintered clunks for me. As said aluminum pipe are a must these days as the modern brass degrades very quickly with our nitro fuel.

Hello Tony . I found this in one of my old post. It would probably have  been quicker to re-type it ! Any way I hope it helps E.D.  The main needle setting you mention (2 to 2 1/2  turns open) is a starting point . First start your engine and open to full throttle . If the engine is spluttering and moking well slowly close the main needle ( screw it in) a couple of clicks at a time and allow it to settle until peak revs are achieved.Continue to screw in one click at a time until the motor revs start to drop then screw out to the the setting that gives the highest revs again and the two further clicks so that the engine doesn't run lean . Now close the throttle , engine should idle smoothly . Allow to idle for a about 15 seconds and open throttle smoothly and fully. If the engine hesitates and splutters with plenty of blue smoke then the idle mixture crew needs screwing in 1/8th a turn at a time to weaken the mixture (stop the engine while you adjust this) . If when you open the throttle the engine dies suddenly with a sucking noise and little or no smoke from the exhaust then the mixture is lean and the idle mixture screw needs screwing out to richen the mixture. Continue to do this until the engine goes from idle to full throttle without any hesitation. Once set the needles shouldn't need a lot of adjustment or fiddling with. Occasionally the mixure may need a small adjustment if the weather conditions are damp or very cold etc. Good luck hope you get it sorted . Regards It may help you to keep your glow on for the first adjustments at idle until you get the mixture setting close. When it will idle ok try removing the glow and if it stops quickly it is probably still too rich . Remember to only adjust the idle mixture screw a tiny amount at a time as they are very sensitive, some engines more so   Don't run you engine at full throttle with the glow on as this can damage your engine or cause it to throw a prop.  Edited By Engine Doctor on 22/06/2014 11:20:18 Edited By Engine Doctor on 22/06/2014 11:21:03

I second the bottom end needs adjusting . Its been covered many times on here so a search should find it . default settings by manufacturers are just to test that an engine runs satisfactorily and need adjusting as the engine parts bed in. Perhaps the moderators could find one of the many "carb adjusting" threads and make it a "sticky" at the beginning of the page. I have typed this out numerous times .   Sorry forget the search option as I have just tried various wording in the search with zero results  ? Suggest going back over the postings and you should find an appropriate thread. Edited By Engine Doctor on 22/06/2014 10:51:30

Hi . You should use a filter as bits of dirt etc will get into and block carb . The best option I have found is the sintered filter clunk. It replaces the standard clunk and will not allow any air leaks etc . Also use one on the filler pump to pre filter the fuel when filling the tank. Ripmax and Dubro supply them .

Another person did take over from John but The business failed for some reason. No contact numbers on site . What happened to all the spares is any-ones guess . You can often find model engineers at swap meets and the like who make spare parts for old engines ,often better than the original . Nothing seems to come up on google either. I often find the bits I need at swap-meets from sellers who specialise in old engines .Or buy an old scruffy motor for spares on e-bay .

Hi Crosswind . Yes the inlet make up a lot of the noise from a petrol engine . The rear induction are easier to quieten the the port induction type . If you intend to fit a cowling or part cowling then the following may be of interest . While fitting a DA 50 to my mustang I was worried that the stand off mounts were too short an that the close proximity of the fire wall would affect carburation . I overcame this by cutting a large hole in the firewall using a Hole cutter saw in a drill . I then used the plug removed as a former to roll some 1/64 ply strips approx 2in wide around its edge a couple of times . Using some thick cyano to laminate the ply . This formed a sort of drum that was then glued into the hole. This effectively set the firewall back into the fus where the cab would have been . This removes any chance of forien objects being sucked from the fus or fuel spilling into the fus . It also made the induction very quiet once the cowling is fitted without moving the engine too far forward . Sorry if the pic is not clear but its the best one I could find from the build. I also made an in cowl silencer pics in link. It hasn't flown yet ( well overdue ) but tests on the ground are very quiet compared to usual large petrol powered models Edited By Engine Doctor on 04/06/2014 11:48:04 Edited By Engine Doctor on 04/06/2014 11:49:30

Dont worry about the clacking from the valve gear , its normal for a Saito. Just check valve clearances as loose clearances will make the clacking sound worse. I think the previous post is describing the camshaft  position relative to the crankshaft this usually described as "valves on the rock " One opening and one closing but as said should be equal. Your description suggest the timing is wrong as the change from exhaust closing to inlet opening should be at TDC . Re -check and re set . When checking after setting turn engine slowly and gently if you feel any solid resistance STOP turning or you run the chance of bending a valve .  E.D. Edited By Engine Doctor on 30/05/2014 10:45:58 Edited By Engine Doctor on 30/05/2014 10:51:27

Just to second that . Those needles are now unobtainable unless your very lucky to find some in old stock tucked away somewhere. The newer carb is a straight swap but probably costs more than the engine is worth. On your pic of the fuel inlet to the carb , it appears to be set up wrong. Try running it and if it idles and picks up ok then leave it; but if idling is a problem the loosen the two black screws slightly and turn the brass unit so that the inlet nipple (where the fuel tube pushes on) points at the front mounting hole on the crankcase.

I have to agree with Allan Bennett . The Wots Wot is draggy like all bipes and a 40.2 s would really struggle to fly it. An electric set up equivalent to a 60 2s or 70 fs would be far better.

Hi Cliff It does sound as if the CG is a bit forward . The hunter is a bank and yank sort of model . The elevator will keep the nose up but as said the rudder will try to pitch the nose down .Rather than mix elevator get used to doing it on the sticks and it very quickly becomes an automatic response . You should only need rudder on the hunter for knife edge flight if you have enough power or keeping a roll axial which will also need elevator . The trouble with mixing is that different stages of flight need different control input . For instance when landing the ailerons are just needed to keep the wings level . The last thing you need is the elevator messing up your landing approach. If you do put any mixes in make sure you can switch them off during flight if needed.

Thanks for the response and help. I will stay with the 70 mm fans for the moment and have a look at the wemo fan .

Hi Braddock VC Sorry about the AC B6 it was for a secondhand one . This one is new and only £17-98 posted http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/iMAX-B6-AC-B6AC-Lipo-NiMH-RC-Battery-Balance-Charger-Discharger-Blancer-UK-New-/271500916298?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3f36b7364a E.D. Edited By Engine Doctor on 22/05/2014 15:50:21

A club mate came to the field this weekend with two Zagi type models with an EDF's mounted on them One 70mm the other 90mm They were lash-ups as he was testing them.The thrust was brilliant They sounded just like a proper turbine but not as loud and had no trace of the electric motor buzz that EDF's usually have . He is running 10 blade fan on the 70 and 12 blade fan on the 90. He gave me a 10 blade fan to try in my Habu . It sounded better but not quite right but the drawback is that it draws 80 amps . Can anyone suggest a motor suitable for a 4s set up that would spin the 10 blade in a Habu or a fan/motor unit that would sound right . Thanks

If model is very fast or twitchy then finger and thumb but easy slow flying models just thumbs ..

Hi Braddock VC . Have look at the Imax B6 on e-bay They charge all types of battery inc lipo, li-ion , Life, NiMh Nicad,Lead acid. Can run on mains with adapter or from car battery. Excellent charger can be found on E-bay from this Portsmouth based seller for £13-98 inc postage . http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IMax-B6-Digital-LCD-Screen-Lipo-NiMh-battery-Balance-Charger-Adapter-/151084132241?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item232d50e791 LMS sell them for loads more . I have two in the workshop with a power supply also found on ebay for £5 inc delivery .and another kept in the car just in case. Hope it helps I forgot to add that there is also a model with built in mains unit that will also work from car battery for around £21-16 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IMAX-B6-AC-B6AC-Lipo-NiMH-3S-RC-Battery-Balance-Charger-OO-/181293294029?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Battery_Chargers&hash=item2a35ec21cd Edited By Engine Doctor on 21/05/2014 20:29:45

I take it we are talking about methanol powered two strokes exhausts .I never use gaskets as they always compress and allow the exhaust to loosen. Silicone always come off or goes soft so a waste of time . I have now used epoxy for years without any problems . A couple of points to remember though. Make sure the joint is a reasonable fit . Make sure that the bolts and threaded part of the silencer and one face of the joint are lightly oiled. and only apply a thin bead around the exhaust port on the clean side of the joint. Clamp up and leave to set . never had one leak of gas or oil . They come apart easily when required ,sometimes the silencer may need a sharp light tap to un-stick the joint. Its not suitable for four strokes as they have much higher temp exhaust and a proper copper washer should be used . Petrol two strokes do need a proper exhaust gasket as they also run at higher temp . The gaskets are usually an alloy with gasket material on both sides. They are very good provided they are re-tightened after a good first run ,preferably when hot .

Keep it lite . OS 32 sx /SC36 or similar on a Weston throttle pipe will have loads of power and use a 11x4 prop . Gp 42 is a bit of a plodder but will fly it OK .

I have had that in the past . Checked my e-bay mail box and no matching message . I reported it to e-bay but dont know what they do about it , if anything. I have also had spoof Paypal messages . Always check you account and never respond to an e-mail .

Hi If you use the broom stick dont forget to put a chicken finger (Thick rubber protector) on it . If you dont and you engine kicks you could end up damaging your prop ! If your model is fitted with a spinner its also easy to back flip that and no stick is required.

Hi Dave . Its not actually a Raduga as these were earlier engines and actually have some value to collectors ,be it little unless its the diesel version. The pictured engine a early MDS . Very crude castings and carb. They ran OK provided you didnt ask too much of them and they were a so and so to set up as the carb is hit and miss. The letters on the side should look like MAC but were later changed the our alphabet and MDS . Prop is too small for this as its a 40 size engine .10 x 6 was the size recommended for these . The 60 was a big lump with a bolt on front crank housing . Again not a power house but would run ok but broke easily if over revved . Just had a closer look at pics and it doesent have the MAC on the side , that makes it one of Ripmax's early imports of MDS , Definately a 40 though. But 99 p starting bid plus the postage is probably all its worth . Don't go over a tenner though. E.D. Edited By Engine Doctor on 05/05/2014 11:45:19 Edited By Engine Doctor on 05/05/2014 11:50:52

Google Ripmax Zephyr and you will get the spec up on their add. They suggest a 10x5 prop link address attached **LINK**

Medway MFC are having a swap-meet / bootsale at their Stickfast lane flying site near Sittinbourne Kent On Sunday the 18th May 2014 .nearest post code ME9 8QE . Starts at 10 am (9-30 for stall holders/sellers) £6-00 a boot / Stall . £1 entry for Buyers . ALL proceeds go to the kent, Surrey and Sussex Air ambulance . To-date we have collected around £10,000 towards this vital charity. Please come along and sell those unwanted items or find a bargain. Tea bar available . Weather permitting ,have a fly after the sale ends -BMFA cover essential and must be shown. www.medwaymfc.org.uk . Hope to see you there. Edited By Engine Doctor on 01/05/2014 16:11:52