Manish Chandrayan

Bates design calls for single piece wings, top and bottom. Builders modify to thier own convenience. I would say, persevere with correcting the issues you come across, it will be less time taking compared to building one from start. I am sure, in the end it will be rewarding when it takes to the air

Strange! Maybe the builder did mod the plans. I have not come across a DH 89 at 113" and I had been looking for long prior to getting the plans/short kit and moulded parts for the Bates design

Hmm! Plans from both Bates/Sweitzer and Martin Tuck are 96". Have you measured the span as 113" or going by what has been mentioned?

That DH 89 is a good acquisition. If th surfaces and thrust lines are true it should be a keeper👍

Be interesting to find out what 2K product have you discovered that does not attack the enamel finish. My recent attempt to use 2K PU clear was a disaster. Good thing it was only on the wheel pants of a Goldberg Chipmunk. Thereafter I tried brushing 2K epoxy paint thinned with epoxy thinner on a repaired cowl of Extreme Flight 30cc Edge and could see the original paint starting to streak with the brush stroke. I suppose the Epoxy thinner was the culprit.

Thanks Jon👍

120 crank shaft is M7 and 120R M8 Since we are talking Enya engines on this thread, guess it's fine to ask for some advice regarding Enya parts. I need to replace some O rings on my 120R. Sizes I know are JIS P6 and P12. What material should I choose? Silicone/NBR/FKM?

EKP Supplies have 4BA grub screws

Thanks Danny, Regarding the tail wheel unit, if I decide to go your route (at a later date) I would slip on a piece of brass tube with the end notched to take the wheel yoke and lips folded over. That way, not only will the wires be butt joined but be strengthened by the surrounding brass tube and filled in silver solder.

Thank you Eric. That confirms my thoughts as well. The base being larger is meant to go in the flaps that are thicker than the control surfaces. The flap hinges don't inspire confidence. I will have to do something to them. What have others done? That is other than using fuel tube/tie wraps as keepers

Hello, need some help with the Seagull Chipmunk assembly. This is regarding the supplied 7 numbers G10 horns. While 5 are of same shape and size, 2 are taller than the rest. Where do the two taller ones go? Flaps I suppose?

Is this the copy from SA or original Laser. Never have seen that box and hence the query. The AGC sales sticker on the box does look genuine

That round nylon centerline marker used to be included with Goldberg kits. If yo have built one of CG kits in the past, you may have the gadget lurking somewhere in the shop. Only downside being the thickness of wood it can be used is limited. The 3D printed one that Ron showed can be made smaller (or larger) per need and be used with a ball point pen (if one does not want ink mark on wood use one where the ink has dried or run out). You get a nice scribed, grooved line to begin cutting the wood

Bert, if you have been cutting all that by hand, I bow to thee👏👏 I suppose you will pin the inserted metal part to the strut and not just rely on glueing it all together

Thank you Peter. Greg's Vulcan definitely looks superb👍

Lovely looking Vulcan Peter. Did you do a build log here for this one? Any flying videos?

Falcon props being lighter will definitely show increase in rpm over the composite APC or even the wooden Xoar props. And those extra revs translate to performance increase . I have witnessed this when on my 35/50 cc petrol powered models I changed from Xoar to Falcon

Aidan If you intend to use the stand for glow fuel with any amount of nitro, you may consider 2K Poly coat (if not already done so). All other Poly coats will eventually break down with nitromethane.

Looks lovely,👏👏👏 does it not? Well worth all the trials and tribulations. That is what scale modelling is all about 👍

I say, please lay the colours on. Beautiful models and pictures 👍

For glow fuel with nitromethane content, only coatings that are 2K and catalyzes instead of cures by evaporation of solvents will be truly fuel proof. Every other coating will only be fuel resistance to varying degree. And many 2K will react with other non 2K coatings. I believe the solvents/thinners used for the 2K coatings are the culprits. Yet to try the water borne 2K PU and see if that reacts with oil based enamels that I normally use for color coats. I suspect it may not react at all, but I may face challenge in terms of water borne coat adhering to the oil based enamel layer.

One of the best 20 odd US $ I spend annually to be a site supprter

Will do that over the weekend and see what results I have👍

Thank you👍

Frank, Checked the Tx and oh yes!, there is this function. Never used so never knew the Tx had such a function. Thank you for that👍 That also springs an idea in my mind that I need to try out to solve the issue at hand. Will let you (and others) know how that goes