Kim Taylor

ARTF - Almost ready to fix 😀 I don't think Max Thrust are worse than any others - except maybe Multiplex But tbh I'd always give any 'plane a once over before committing aviation, just for my own peace of mind. Kim

You could build it flat, but it'd look better with a few degrees of dihedral - flat wings tend to look 'droopy' (I would have said anhedral, but I can't spell it) 😉

Same here Chris As per Geoff, I emailed customer services and got a reply yesterday saying that the order would be despatched in two or three days. Still not holding my breath - luckily Kim

Yes, my 3S & 4S LiPo's are showing in stock also - waiting with baited breath - but still not holding it!! 😀 Kim

Usually turning the engine the 'wrong' way using a spanner on the end of the crank (assuming you can see it) will release a jammed starter motor. Could also be a faulty solenoid - is the starter a per engaged type (integral solenoid) or bendix type (separate solenoid wired to the starter windings). If the latter, short across the power in & out terminals with a screwdriver or similar to isolate the fault (see Ron's post above)- if the starter turns, it's the solenoid at fault, if it doesn't, it's the starter motor. hth Kim

I think that any of the tx's that have one of the 4 in 1 modules either internally or in an external port will 'do' DSM2. I know my TX16S Mk2 will. So anything FrSky or similar could do it with a 4 in 1 in the external bay. Kim

Can I just stick my head above the parapet here and say that, in my opinion, this model doesn't need 1kW to fly it in the manner that (I think) Nigel is intending to use it. My one, although it has a motor capable of producing circa 1.3kW, is propped down to (iirc) 750W and it does everything that I (a sport flyer) need it to do. It will fly a conventional (not 3D) aerobatic schedule and is unlimited vertical. My motor is 470kV and the battery is 6s 3000, but that's only because I had them 'in stock'. It would fly perfectly happily, and with the same energy capacity on a 700 - 800kV motor and 4s 4500 LiPo, and would do everything that a 'sport' flyer needs and more. If Nigel wants it to do 3D aeros or fly an F?? schedule, then all of the above is probably nonsense, but you wouldn't be building a Gangster to do that, imho. As an aside, you'd have difficulty fitting a large enough prop to absorb 1kW. 12" is the practical maximum (without modification) 13" can work on a billiard table smooth strip. Like I said, just my opinion👍 Kim

Doesn't make sense, simple as that. I've never used 4-Max, so won't comment further but I've got a couple of Overlander Thumper motors, and they seem to do what it says on the label. Kim

Look at the relative weight of each of the motors - if the motor is heavier, then it's likely that it can take the extra current. There is a school of thought that rates motor power by weight. Personally, I'd rather rely on the published performance data, but hey - maybe I'm wrong.🤔 Wrt the 4-Max motors, there seems to be a rather large 'hole' in their range, insofar as there are no 40mm dia motors, which normally fill the gap between about 500 - 800 watts. In my 'lite' I've got an oversize motor, propped down to about 750W (bear in mind I estimate it weighs nearer 5lb than 4). I used this because I had it in my spares drawer and I'm too cheap to buy new bits when I can re-purpose old ones.😀 In your position, I'd be looking at a 4050 case size motor of 700 - 800kV if running 4s. Prop it to 700 - 750W with something like a 12x8e (guessing - someone with ecalc may feel like chipping in). The 4lb published weight is - how should I put this - ambitious!! There's plenty of evidence in this thread to suggest that 5lb is a much more likely outcome, once you've got a sensible powertrain installed. Just my opinion, ymmv. Kim eta Meant to say, prop clearance on anything larger than 12" is going to be marginal on anything other than short, smooth grass or a hard runway. I have used a 13" previously, but it's not ideal!!

Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about weight, unless you're trying to use a 'lightweight' power train. The wing area is enough to not have to actively lose weight. The manual does leave quite a bit to the imagination, can't comment on the motor mount as this must be a fairly recent addition, mine (built 4 or 5 years ago) didn't have it. Also the kit was the kit then - no options for with or without accessories. Did have a spinner included though, along with the now 'extra' bits & bobs. I just mounted the motor on standoffs directly to the bulkhead, and assumed that any side / down thrust was built in to the design. Obviously it's easy enough to adjust with the mounting method I used, but I don't recall ever having to do anything in that regard. Kim

I don't think overall that it added any weight, as I was able to do away with the weight I'd had to add to the tail end to balance it before I modded it. Either way, if it did add weight, the wing is so big it can carry it without any problems. The nose wheel - Gangster is spot on - bend the supplied leg at right angles near the top, and use saddle clamps into the bulkhead. Kim

As per Gangsters comment above, I built my Gangster 63 Lite with a fixed nosewheel because: 1. Like the OP I converted mine to 'lectric and therefore didn't use the engine mount. 2. With the battery in the way, there was bug... I mean very little room to run the linkage and the whole thing became a monster faff, so I left it. Best of luck with the build OP. It's not the best resolved kit I've ever built, but it flies nicely once you get it built and set up. Make sure that you read this thread - there are a number of builds and a lot of good tips in there. I sheeted mine all over with 1/16th balsa, as it looked like a starved horse with the ribs all sticking out, and I felt that it was all too flexible as standard. You may disagree, of course. Have fun😀 Kim

According to the book of words it does. https://spektrumrc.com/ProdInfo/Files/SPM8800-Manual_EN.pdf That is for the original DX8. If it's the gen2, then there's a charging plug in the back into which you plug the supplied wall wart type adaptor. Kim

I wouldn't be getting too hung up on expo at this time, on this model at least. As long as you don't have excessively large control throws - this isn't an aerobat or 3D model after all, you shouldn't need it on day one. If, later on you increase the throws to make things more 'interesting', then maybe that's the time to think about damping the response around the centre stick position. Just my opinion, ymmv. Km

Hi Toto What's being suggested is a 'cross' groove in the clunk to prevent the possibility of the clunk attaching itself to the back or the sides of the tank by suction, preventing the fuel from flowing. Imagine that you're looking at the clunk from the rear, looking directly up the 'ole, the grooves should form the shape of a cross (or X) across the diameter of the clunk. Easier and quicker to do than to explain. Make sure that you clean any swarf away THOROUGHLY, then clean it again before re-fitting. Stay well Kim eta: Beaten to the draw by Nick

Forgot to add - free shipping too. Very few UK shops or online traders will do that to here (IOW) for kits, etc. For LiPo's - forget it. Kim

Nothing to do with us in the UK, but just seen that the 'deadline' for RID in the USA has been postponed for 6 months. https://www.faa.gov/newsroom/faa-extends-remote-id-enforcement-date-six-months As discussed earlier in the thread, delay in processing applications for approved sites and introduction of RID electronic packages being cited as the reason Kim

Well, for better or worse, I've ordered some LiPo's - sorry to UK suppliers, but the price they're on offer for is mental. Back order, due late October, paid by credit card as 1. I've got no money at the moment and 2. Security, should it all go wrong for any reason. Watch this space - hopefully it all goes well. 🤔 I'll report back as & when. Kim

Toto, just a thought. I've scanned through the build thread for the Arising Star and couldn't see how, and where you've got the receiver mounted. It needs to be in as much 'free space' as you can get (bearing in mind the 'aerial' is built into the case and it needs to be isolated from the airframe vibrations (much more important with an i/c engine, rather than an electric motor. Could be you've got the above covered, but thought I'd mention it 'just in case'! Hope you get to the bottom of it. Kim

This happened at my club quite a few years ago now (before my time as a member). We also rent the field from the local council and as far as I know all representations had to be via them. Took a while for the legal eagles to sort it out, and once they'd gone, the clean up bill was considerable (not sure if the club footed all, or part of this). Security was increased (better lock on gate, extra security bollard (you know, the unlockable fold down thingy's). Biggest take home is LOCK THE GATE. Make yourselves a nuisance at the council to speed things along would be my advise. Kim

If starting from scratch, I'd agree. Toto already had some 6S packs, so I guess that's why he went that way. Way back on page 2 / 3 of this thread, I suggested motors for either a 4S or 6S setup (800 vs 500kV) in response to a way oversized suggestion from elsewhere. At the end of the day, the motor / esc / lipo he has now will fly it fine - he just needs to select an appropriate prop, which I would suggest will be a 12x6e. With the clearance he has now, plus the extra half inch from the bigger wheels, it'll be OK I'm sure. I've flown off grass with less than that with no issues at all, other than a green stain on the prop tips.🙂 Kim

A bit prosaic compared to some of the lovely models in previous posts, but the one I miss the most is a kit built Sig 4 star 20. 48" wingspan, loads of power and endurance on a cheap 3s setup and lovely flying characteristics. Could drop that thing in on a sixpence. If / when Sig start producing kits again, I'll get another. Lost the 1st to a radio problem (honest guv'nor). Kim

Don't sweat it, Toto, all is not lost. Maybe a day or two reflecting on where you are will be time well spent. Wrt the motor in the Domino, don't worry, all you've got to do is prop it right and it'll fly perfectly well. Would it have flown on an 800kV 4S setup - yes it would, but there's more than one way of skinning a cat, as they say. In my opinion as often as not, what drives a model shop is selling what they've got in stock, not necessarily what would be 'best practice' (not saying that's happened here, btw) You need to be better informed BEFORE you squeeze the trigger on that purchase, to make sure you're getting what's best for YOU. I reckon that 12x8 will fly it fine. If it's a bit close to the deck, put on some of those bigger wheels you've got to give it a bit more clearance. Look on the upside - with that prop and your 6S 5000's (iirc) you've got the potential to stay airborne for a good long time, rather than having to land after 8 minutes or so. I used to fly a Wot4 on a very similar setup to what you've got. It had a 13x6.5 prop on it and the meter (from memory) showed around 800 watts. Flew beautifully. I used the self same motor / battery in a Wot4XL but this time with a 15x8 prop showing around 1300 watts, flew just as well as the little one. The point is, electric motors are flexible in use, as I said above, just prop it to the power you need and that's all it'll produce. Soon enough, these hiccoughs will be behind you, the weather will improve and you'll be thinking about taking your A cert.😃 Kim

Hi Toto If you have a look at Aidans' Spacewalker thread from a day or two ago, he has a video posted up which clearly shows the engine intall as he taxis out. The good thing about 4/ exhausts is that they're much smaller than an equivalent 2/ and they can (usually) be rotated around so that the exit the cowl inconspicuously. It looks to me as though the only cutting required is to allow the cylinder head to stick out of the side. I assume that there's a good reason why he hasn't fixed the engine inverted (maybe he just has a preference not to) which I think would mean little or no chopping of the cowl. Just what I think I can see from the images, you'd need to check. A 4/ is definitely the right engine for the job, if you're going i/c, the lower pitch noise is much more in keeping (imho). 😉 Kim

If you look up the records, there's been a bit of 'coming and going' of directors recently. Mr Moss seems to have recently resigned as Co. Secretary but stayed on the board. The latest news is (I guess) post all of the above. Kim