Nigel R

Silicone grease could cause issue with the feedback pot, if it gets in it. You need something ok for electrical environments, and nylon, like, Electrolube SPG. I've no idea what's in hitec grease, but you certainly don't get much of it for your money!

That seller has been on ebay for a long time, selling pretty much only engines. I suspect he may sell more engines than you think.

SLEC are great. The one or two minor errors in my entire order history have been sorted, instantly and without quibble.

Wrong (inserted from above): Right (inserted from underneath): See: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/blog/tips_on_rc_servo_installation_and_setup/?___store=en_us

Self tappers in a glass nylon mount, for me, every time. Quick and easy and stay firmly in place. One caveat, use decent screws, not ones made from cheesium. Oh, and, correct clearance hole. But. I wouldn't change what you have, no point.

George always appears to specify small batteries aimed at short flights. YMMV, quite literally. Never in a month of Mondays will you see 920W from a 40 2-stroke on a standard silencer with a 11x6 prop and 10% glow fuel. A 0.40 will show about 600W, or 0.75 shaft HP. It's been done to death before, but the published figures for two strokes are likely to be ridiculous nitro content fuel, tiny prop, and unrestricted exhaust, in order to get the biggest number possible (before the conrod gives up). Start propping sensibly with regular fuel and a decent silencer and a very different picture appears. 125W/lb isn't underpowered, either, and I say that as someone who generally attempts to fit a fairly spicy motor to my airframes.

Try this - https://web.archive.org/web/20190820062937/http://godolloairport.hu/calc/strc_eng/index.htm

Exactly what I was suggesting doing. Apologies if my post wasn't very clear! Although I would use 1C and expect about 80% capacity to show on the discharge cycle. Decent manufacturers do provide discharge curves for various different load currents and they are repeatable. If you go from those, then the figures are not optimistic at all. If you expect the nameplate capacity at max discharge then you will be disappointed, and the datasheets for nimh cells indicate the capacity is nominal at 0.1C (or similar low discharge). I've not seen a credible manufacturer claim anything but this.

Every so often, you could use a multi charger to run a charge/discharge/charge cycle test to see what state the pack is in.

I like trikes, so I would stick with that. Flexi cables can sneak around all sorts of obstacles if you did want to retain steering. But. A fixed nosewheel is never really a problem - I can't remember the last time I had steering, either nose gear or tail wheel, and don't really miss it, after all, "build it to fly". That said I fly from grass fields. YMMV, etc.

Proper shop, proper brand, proper kit, happy punter.

Definitely list separately.

Can you post a photo of the complete model? At this point I'm assuming it is a high wing trainer type... but pictures and 1000 words etc. It would help anyone on here to know what you have. I think you'll want to change some or all of the pushrods / closed loop and clevises as well, sadly. Again, picture of the whole thing will help.

I'd agree with kc, the formers look too weak to me. And cutting holes in things is generally (a) a lot of work, and (b) not worth it. Formers can be made from four short strips of balsa, two upright, two across - you get the grain going in the right directions that way. Plus they can be knocked up from scraps. The shaped top deck formers I'd just cut from sheet wood. Keep it simple, is a good mantra. Don't gold plate it!

Judging by the rust around there I'd agree with getting rid of the existing servos and radio. I guess this has been kept in a damp garage or shed?

That makes one hell of a good noise.

www.dspowerservo.com They do indeed make 9g servos... 😈

I would list the ED tuned pipe separately. If it is an ED pipe, it certainly does not match the FS-20 and is its own auction - they're of some interest to collectors I would say. Can you post a photo of it to help confirm what it is? The Q40 may go for reasonable cash if new in box. 40 FSR probably the least valuable. But you never know. I think you have 4 decent auctions there. Very approximate guesses: FS20, new in box might be £200+ Q40 £50? 40 FSR £50? The ED pipe might get £50 by itself. Definitely a "right buyer" required though. Might want to do a fixed price on this one and just wait. Take those numbers with a massive pinch of salt!

Would it be cheaper to look into getting a few compatible (say Lemon) DSMX receivers? Rather than a whole new TX? That said, I don't know how shiny the models are you're talking about, and whether you'd be happy with a compatible RX in there rather than 'official' brand...

Welcome to the forum Planesky. What are the three engines? On my part, I have simply listed engines in 10 day auctions, and received quite reasonable money for them. I've had no problems with the buyers of any of the IC motors I have sold.

Yes, in a word. Well, actually, you don't have to accept them, you can return the defective products.

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Which is precisely why you can actually buy a tx with all the features it has, for the price you can - nobody in this hobby would ever buy a tx with software built to safety crit standards, it would make a 2 grand Jeti look like a complete bargain.

Probably thousands and thousands of hours behind the scenes making the diagnostic software and working on the upgrade.

I imagine they encode a unique TX ID number in their permanent storage. The TX software version may form part of that ID number. That might be deliberate. Couldn't agree more. At the flightline - check all switches / dials in correct position, check controls move as expected, and only then go.