Chris Walby

Don't worry Bucksboy, wait until he sees mine as its the normally non photographed version of red 23...it would be easier to say what is right with it than what's wrong with it and in the spirit of stand in the next field scale I don't care! When I am flying it and it is a very pleasant model to fly its that which counts!

Last visit to Laser Engines to collect the first and last production V 310 pair. Thanks to Jon for the final push which just leaves me to do this pair justice in a suitable model (DH).

IMO better to fit and glue the captive nuts in rather than trying to pull them through as there is always a chance of stripping the thread or the captive nut falling out the hole (been there and got both prizes!). I have even resorted to gluing a piece of balsa over the top of the captive nut where it will be near totally inaccessible.

A great idea, all that money going into developing battery technology with the benefit that the cost will come down for those that don't fly infernal combustion.

C of G is 78mm and I think my dolly presents the FW at a high AOA. Anyone post a side on photo of the dolly or dolly/FW on it for comparison please? Its all part of the fun anyway.

Its my own decision (fault) for picking a lower KV motor and as Dave B1 is using 14x8.5 I recon that will work with mine better than the pitchy 13x10. I can't really go less pitch on the 13 dia as it just won' produce enough thrust. If that does not work then I'll just put a higher KV motor in NP. It didn't drop a wing on the first 2 flights so I still think is a case of me firewalling it and pulling it off before its ready or on Saturday the wind was gusty and turbulent across the runway so perhaps that. Plus more of my own doing is the lack of finger holes for a self hand launch as I prefer the under arm technique, but didn't appreciate the diameter of the fuselage. If all else fails I do have a RX with "safe/gyro" but having had a self-inflicted afternoon spent explaining to the CAA and BMFA that I had lost my model, I limit its application to the models that actually need them (hand launching my 2.7kg SU47 that has a tipping point between stall and climb out!) The other thing to mention...it was no drama at all. it dropped its wing tip by a few inches and a spot of aileron had it back on the straight and level. Personally I don't think I'll fit retracts to either, because it will just add weight that they don't need in flight. I have touched wood just in case, but I haven't broken that many props on belly landers and probably as many with nose overs anyway. Its easy to fly and if I stop messing around it would probably launch itself without any drama!

News update, 2 more flights off the dolly, and it seems to drop the left wing (my fault for rushing the lift off and gunning the throttle!) but aileron authority is great so easily corrected! Getting her dialled in and over the next few weeks will try a little lead reduction and perhaps a 14 inch prop (currently 13x10 so thought a 14x8 would be good). Disaster with the attempt of camouflage so will have another go in the week. The red chin does really stand out in a really grey sky so happy with that on mine. John is shifting the battery further forward and then sorting his C of G, then it will be ready for a maiden! James is to too far behind

The photo does not do the weather justice although we did have a few spots of rain, wind was down the runway/over the gate. The Red Sparrows (Red Arrows edf hawks) team were demonstrating just how big the sky can be when trying to fly in formation 🤣 Two maidens of which my OV10 was one, flies as nice as the P38

Spektrum no longer supply this as a spare part, but there are plenty of third party one's on the internet or old stock about! I have used non OEM on my DX8 as eventually the UJ on mine give up. From what I can remember its not a difficult job, just take a few photos as you get the case off and start undoing stuff, its more around cable routing etc that's important. Worth doing a range check on a known good model before flying just to prove its working ok

I would like to thank Jon and the rest of the guys at Laser engines (past and present) for all their help and assistance over the relatively short period I have been involved in the hobby. Wishing Jon all the best in the future with his new job. Personally Jon and Laser Engines will be greatly missed, but time waits for no man and the hobby is in decline whether we like it or not and IC will be hit the hardest. Great Engines and great service

I would put it wherever it gets the C of G in the right place! From what I have heard this model benefits being as light as possible so sticking the battery in one place and then adding lead serves no purpose. Even if you up or down the battery size that is better than adding lead....but lead and the right c of g is better than no lead and a c of g that is way out!

Not sure why IC props are less efficient, but would say if its a hand launch or nose over with power on then more likely to bend the motor shaft if using an IC prop.

All the best for a quick recovery there Matty and count your blessings, my late wife had her TIA at the age of 27 (apparently not that unusual according to the specialist).

IMHO I think you are missing the point Stu as there has been lengthy discussions about why Richard has selected electric (cost, direction of the hobby etc) and why the FW is kept light (no UC, flaps etc) as it produces a well flying model. By all means add IC and anything else, but you risk increasing the wing loading. Not a problem as plenty of warbird models have high wing loading and poked tiger attributes to follow! We have come full circle where models for IC where designed to withstand the vibration of IC and now IMHO we have designs for electric and would require beefing up for IC. My justification is that traditional kits when fitted with IC balance up and so does Richards with electric..which means he has designed the tail to be proportionally lighter so we benefit from an overall lower wing loading (oorr he is clever!). On Leccy's point could any of the scrap be cut or fashioned to provide a jig for sanding? Richard, could you please slow up a bit...you are going to embarrass us amateurs 🙂

I discussed this with George at 4-Max and suitable solutions for me is to use a high current UBEC or power distribution boxes. Both or these are supplied from 3S2200 lipos which has a couple of advantages. Firstly I use 3S2200 batteries as flight packs which means they get a good performance discharge (way beyond the sort of load a RX/servos would exert in normal use) so I know they will perform when I need them to. Secondly with a high current UBEC I won't get a brown out on the RX if a servo fails or jams as the UBEC can supply more than enough current. Works for me, but I am sure there are a few die hard that would argue differently.

Well I am doing Red 23's other aircraft...the one that there are no photos of! And the fuselage is grey...don't know why the photo make it looks brown! I'll start watching Ron's videos and others weathering techniques so I am ready when I get to that point. Rubbish weather today so I'll make a bit more progress later on. John's FW190 and dolly are finished and James is somewhere in the covering and painting stage.

Looking absolutely fabulous there Richard and you are way faster than me on the building board 🙂 I was going to hum and harr, but the realisation that I don't have anything with a clipped wing nailed it for me (easily convinced after flying the FW 190), Put me down for one and I'll see if James and John want to join in. Might have the FW190 finished in time to start Tempest at this rate!

I had the same issues with a Ripmax Spitfire so I used a thicker piece of ply for mine, hopefully I won't end up bending the motor adaptor with my big prop!

Its just so simple...not!

....its meant to be heading towards this, So I have a fair way to go.....unless apparently he had two aircraft and mine is the one that never appeared in any photos 🤣

Eric, I have since bent the tail wheel up as for the maiden it sat up with a high angle of attack. Good news it leapt off the dolly, just with the 13x10 prop I think it might be better letting it build the speed up more gently. Although saying that the take off roll was a lot longer on the second flight. I'll compare the photo with my dolly stance, but I would expect the full size let the tail lift before easing the mains off.

Always wondered who the puppet was and who the puppet master is....The Green man himself...or could it be Baron von Sweep? Not seen them for a few weeks guess they are wind tunnel testing the Tempest real dedication when you have that much fur!

Could be quite hard to fly scale as it just begs to be given a bit of stick + with no normal warbird bite I think I will set a rates switch for just that! Oh and the rudder in flight is nice, a bit of yaw but not much roll so need to experiment with that + the stall...what stall! Will even try spin at some point as I think that will have a nice recovery if its anything like the rest of the flight envelope to date.

With a couple more FW190 maiden today any ideas as to how many are ready to be scrambled for flight duties? And of course not forgetting the Best of British at Buckminster 27/28/29 September this year. I attended the Lindsay Todd "Renaissance" meeting a few years back (mass build) and it was great to see them turn up and chat with the designer. Lets hope we can squeeze a WR slot in. If I get the Tempest finished I could be tempted to find another stick wiggler to be employed

Very similar maiden to mine, I had a very grey sky and a rather grey model! With you on the spinner balance and mine was C of G at 78mm so all good. Second flight I tried inverted and it did not need much elevator so I think we are quite close there + this helps the leap off the dolly so win win. Agree with you, BIG THANKS TO RICHARD AND TEAM for all there hard work. Great flying model that is low cost and easy to build...with lots of bling if you want Just leaves me with all the painting and weathering to do.