Chris Walby

Looks a great candidate to be bottom of the list! Could it be any less well known, difficult to design, build and probably fly + expense 🤣 Unless anyone can find anything more obscure?

Just interested and so if you had a model with Elevrons you would see a log of aileron and elevator stick movements, but not the combined TX signal to the RX?

I know its a bit galling to have packs that have one duff cell and even worse when you have only got a few cycles out of them (6S4500 first flight that the edf over discharged in 2 min 15 seconds, gutted as it was £60), but is it worth the time, effort and risk? Assuming you get the packs apart without damage , then identify the duff cell and replace/swap then get it all back together without incident what will be the resulting physical size and weight? I have some 3S2200 models where the battery compartment is quite tight physically so a chunky one might be a tight fit. Oh and don't forget if its heavier you will have to put it in a different position or retrim the model if you forget. Most trainer type models are very tolerant with C of G, but even then I would rather be just flying then retrimming to get it back to where its was. Another factor and been caught with old lipos is the inflight one cell death! No fun while flying around as the ESC goes into low voltage cut off, but a right bummer having just taken off as you then try and nurse it back over the hedge to get it back to the landing strip! PS If you do lawn dart the model due to battery failure/dead stick...what's the model worth?

I think Richard has it right for the size of the model as 3 piece wings need bracing/wing tubes, electrical connections etc for little gain + if the front fuselage is part of the wing then its minimal wiring for the tail section. My Tigercat has a three piece wing and fuselage with non detachable tail feathers and its a right pain as there are a load of wires to connect up and worst of all... the tail feathers take up a disproportional amount of space for transit or storage. IMO its a low stress area behind the TE on the fuselage for the joint and almost all of the electrictricky is housed in the wings and front fuselage. If I have understood his design correctly then Richard has fully exploited the benefits of strength and simplicity of the foam/veneer wing with very little impact on overall weight. The BH Mossie has detachable wings so needs a wing tube, fuselage fixings, battery to ESC leads, ESC throttle, aileron and flap servo connects on each side that need to be connected every time its assembled or packed away. Its not like the the Mossie has a fuselage that protrudes beyond the nacelles anyway + all of the heavy bits are located in one section.

£1.35 - £0.99 = £0.36 saving for a few hours of running - the cost of possibly screwing up your DIESEL heater (unless the manufacturer calls it a kerosene heater), but then with everything you'll find someone who has done it and never had a problem, so crack on and see what happens.

At least I can hear it even if I can't see it 🤣

Well dressed like that I am not entirely surprised, was it the hat or the side arm that swung it? Planked or foam core with veneer, I know which one has my money on being the heaviest 😉

Great turn out today with early mist, but ended with clear sky and a bit of sunshine for those that stayed the 5 hours. Maiden the WR Tempest and new to me Ultra Z Astro + WooHoo and Can Doo (long time in the hanger!) all given a nice outing.

Maiden time! CG at 85mm and a load of lead so AUW is 3Kg Before and after quite a bit of left swing on the take off roll and it needed some elevator and aileron trim but nothing that made it too hard to fly until trimmed out Does not fly heavy with neutral stall and still needs me to slow it more on the landing as i did a novice bounce but no damage. Pilot painting, cockpit detailing and a couple of other bits to do. Thanks Richard, team and all those that chipped in with the build, cheers an another great keeper roll on Buckminster!

Hopefully with the Mosquito there will be plenty of versions to sell like the PR, fighter, fighter/bomber, bomber including night version, maritime, Tsetse and High Ball versions. Then once we all have one each of those there are the limited edition special operation versions and then the lastly the 4 blade version for carrier landings that Winkle Brown used. The never have too many Spitfires quote could be replaced with "have you got all the Mosquito versions"

Nice to see they supply a spare prop that you will need as opposed to only having one prop and spares on back order for months. Flight report please once the weather has improved, cheers

I would discharge and dispose, but I have heard that some of model boat boys would link/remove the duff cell and use it with a reduced cell count. They are less concerned with power to weight ratio or pulling high power from the battery pack. Did you charge it in balance or standard charge mode...before it gave up the ghost?

If you have checked all the hinges, control horns, pushrods and clevises then it could be a servo. The foam RIOT has quite a coupled rudder so worth checking the rudder servo and the aileron ones. From experience not just check them for a few seconds, but for minutes. I have a model with brand new servos and everything checked out on the ground and it flies well, but would occasionally would do something rather odd. In the end it was sitting on the bench (with the prop off) and I just kept stirring the sticks and after a couple of minutes (nothing before that) a servo would make a un-commanded movement and then recover, then return to its usual duties for an other 30 seconds to a couple of minutes and then do it again. Just one faulty servo but it took a lot of finding. My son had a model that flow many time suddenly developed un-commanded aileron servo movement, that turned out to be a servo plug to Y lead connection. As the lead flexed the servo moved with no command input change, just unpluged it and plugged it back in and it was ok until we sold the model a few years later. Again with the the model restrained or the prop off run the motor and watch to see if either the aileron or rudder servos move when no commanded.

No axe to grind as I only have my late wife's Ripmax Spitfire so only gets taken out on high days or holidays. Rather have a Hurricane...oh I already have a WR one of those in a box! Perception is Shopping trolley undercarriage, so less robust Habit of nosing over The elliptical wing is not very friendly for the beginner Every rivet counter is an expert on the Spitfire Not looked, but assume there are plenty of ARTF Spitfires about If enough people wanted a Spitfire I would probably join in, but happy with something less main stream.

IMO its not the warbird that is the issue, but the edf which is the problem. Cost of edf, ESC and battery become a major cost. To achieve an edf model that can be build by a multitude of people with different skills and maintain a very good power to weight ration would be near impossible (that's why there are not many about). If you look at current foam edf's they tend to be fixed UC on the smaller model or larger and have heavy retracting UC, but just go along to a days club flying and you will see a few UC failures The other factor is that there needs to be a minimum number of orders to make it viable

I have elevator and aileron rates on one switch, but there is no coupling between them and I run a 3S2200 (lasts a long time). I also have my prop on a prop-saver as I pulled the motor /bulkhead out of the model a couple of times, but then a gain I am probably running a lower KV motor and much bigger prop (which reminds me the bearings need changing!). IIRC it takes a circuit or two to get back into the groove as it just flies differently (not good or bad, just different!). compared the traditional wing layout. I'll bring mine along on the 29th.

Why do you think model aircraft would cause hearing loss, I thought it was more about the duration of the loud noise than the actual loudness e.g. attending a lot of concerts or exposure over a long period of time.

Not forgetting my control surfaces have much smaller surface area (standard design) than yours Elevator maximum 41 degrees High rates 125% expo 45% Medium rates 100% expo 45% Low rates 40% expo 30% Aileron maximum 25 degrees High rates 125% expo 40% Medium rates 100% expo 35% Low rates 55% expo 30% IIRC I fly on mid rates, sometimes on high, but I think with a small control surface area and high deflection it can induce turbulence/stalled air flow hence why mine does not like being pushed very hard. IMO I would go full rates, 60% and 30% initial launch on 60% just in case its its rather feisty you can switch to low rates! PS I could not see any reflex on mine.

Nice looking wing profile there 🙂

IIRC and as mine has very small control surfaces I would say less is better as mine is stable until its going fast or some nut is wiggling the sticks!

Big thanks to Richard and the team for all their advice and kits over the years as its very much appreciated. Looking forward to flying the current build and when the Mossie comes along in due course. The two edge sword of more obscure models vs how many are made will inevitably be sold needs support from us the builder/flyers so that Richard can make it worthwhile putting all the effort to a new model. The Tempest and Bf110 are good examples where personally did I really need one, but with the reassuring knowledge that there is building support and that they fly well was a great incentive + using existing batteries is a bonus. Perhaps the question should be to Richard as to what he would like to model/build next and we and we collectively support him and the team with buying/building and flying them? Merry Christmas and best wishes to all

I would use the warped parts as patterns to make new ones unless where the warp is won't effect the build/alignment of the model. I don't think you can bend ply back as I would have thought that it would either spring back or delaminate.

Hi, I glued my battery box in and had to make a box under the motor for all the lead I needed to put in there. I can only think that my tail wheel is made out of depleted uranium but its good news its got a lifty wing! Suppose I should finish the hatch and go fly it

How puffy is too puffy is not really a measure of lipo condition or if its about to fail (generally they just give up rather than catch fire). So just keep using them until you notice performance is declining (or when the total capacity has dropped by 10%, but you need to know what the original capacity was, not what is stated on the side of the lipo). This is quite easy if you are giving the lipos a hard time e.g. edf or flying the Cougar hard. IMO I have found the cheaper lipos are ok if you are using them in light load applications (e.g. high wing trainers) where only a small percentage of the C rating is actually used. Worth reading George's (4-Max) comments regarding lipo performance and voltage sag and as a observation I have found that Purple power lipos don't tend to puff. I have been using GNB lipos from Hobby RC, they perform very well in tough applications and are generally slightly larger capacity for the same physical size + slightly lighter (handy if you go the next capacity up and its the same weight). GaoNeng - GNB Batteries | HobbyRC UK PS the original Cougar had a single wing so no spar to get in the way + if you had made a motor extension box (with door) you could have put the lead in there to give yourself a bit more room. On the subject of battery fitting, I appreciate comments made by our safety officer regarding connecting batteries from behind the prop or always maintaining your arms away from the prop arc at all times. Personally I prefer model benches that restrain the wings ( like the IC benches) or have the tail restrained with a ground anchor.

I have bought items from MotionRC EU and paid at point of purchase and no more (if items are below the limit), they just get delivered as with everything else. Surprised a unpainted pilot was that expensive or perhaps the French have a different rule for importing.