EvilC57

I wonder how many times that’s ever happened.

They gave him a wedgie.

You could always turn the brightness down to make it more comfortable 😉.

I’ve successfully printed tyres using ColorFabb Varioshore TPU with an Ender 3 V2. The trick is not to print at too high a temperature. 200°C works for me, anything more makes the tyres too soft and spongy. And you only need a bed temperature of 30°C. I can’t remember my other settings (print/flow speed etc.), but I could look them up if you need to know.

The only odd thing I found about Tinkercad is the ‘hole’ or hollow object function. In other words you can take a solid object and make it hollow (or place a hollow object), it seemed strange to me at first, but actually once you get your head around it it makes sense, and is an easy way to create tubes/cylinders, or subtract a volume from a solid shape. I moved on to F360 partly because I couldn’t find any way to create a fillet or chamfer on an object in Tinkercad - someone will probably tell me you can do it now!

+1 for Tinkercad. I ‘learned’ 3D CAD on Tinkercad, which is more intuitive than Fusion 360 and not such a steep learning curve. I’m also now using F360 with Windows 10 and I find it exports .STL files OK (found under Mesh Tools). However if I want to get something done simply & quickly I go back to Tinkercad.

It’s a FlyCat46, and the instructions are available here. I had one about 10 years ago, which was very fast with an Irvine 46 in it (with a special ‘reverse’ exhaust for a pusher engine). The problems included the fact that it suffered from prop strikes on the ground when rotating for take off, and a tendency to Dutch roll. Being fairly slippery and with no flaps, it tended to come in hard and fast to land, which resulted in the inevitable bent retracts more times that I cared to remember.

Ditto.

From the post above ..... "Arrange a photo shoot for a new Facebook page. Wouldn’t work for us. It’s written in to our club constitution that we shall not have a ‘social media’ presence.

Obviously not just our club then. Of around 130 members, those of us who do fly regularly only ever see maybe 30 or 40 of them maximum. The other 90 to 100 pay their subs, but we never see them.

Have you looked at the Mobius action cameras.

Not quite dead yet. Our club has had several guys in their 30s and 40s join just this year, which i admit is unusual, but at least it’s happening.

That’s definitely not the issue with the Jetwing design. I’m sure the original broke up due to structural failure as described in my earlier posts. Mk2 has been subjected to several high g turns and full throttle (100mph+?) low passes without any issue at all. My main issue with the Jetwing is that you have to be VERY careful with landings as I’ve said above. Certainly not one for beginners!

I don’t think the specs of the motor matter too much JB. I’m thinking more of the physical interface of the EDF duct mounting into the mounting blocks in the fuselage. And the fit of the cowl around the fan outer (see pic below). I found that trying to get it to take off from grass can be a bit fraught with danger. I did manage it once with my original Jetwing, but subsequent efforts have resulted in one wing digging into the grass, and the model cartwheeling. There is very little ground clearance, so the wings have to be kept absolutely level on the take off run. The single main undercarriage is very prone to picking up grass and debris in the small gap between the wheel and its mounting too, which causes it to jam. I did try a mod with two wheels (one on each side outside the mounting) but it was no more successful, so I’ve gone back to one, which I just have to clear of debris between flights.

Yes it’s flown four times now. It flies well, but I would recommend you add the CF reinforcements I described in my previous post. They warn you in the build instructions that the model has a long flat glide slope, and to get the power off very early on the landing approach, indeed I’ve found I have to get the power off more or less opposite me on the downwind leg before turning into a long flat final. Otherwise it tends to come in too hard and fast - indeed, I had to replace the nose after attempting an approach which was too steep, and ended with the model bouncing and landing on its nose. I’ve also found it best to get a trusted club mate to hand launch it into wind for me while I hold some up elevator in. What’s the fan in your Vampire? Bear in mind that the fuselage section designed to house the EDF only gives the options of fitting a 70mm FMS or Wemotec Mini Fan, unless you’re prepared to modify the supplied .STL files to suit. With a modern fan you shouldn’t need to use a catapult. I’m not sure where you plan to fit the bungee attachment hook, as LW-PLA is fairly brittle without a lot of reinforcement, and I imagine any hook would just rip out under tension.

All searches I did for Spektrum H3050 came back as H3055 as I believe the 3050 is now obsolete, and I’m sure I read somewhere that the H3055 is a modern replacement for the H3050 - although I must admit I can’t find where I read it now. I’m surprised the servo type is so critical. And as I said in my OP, the severe shake started back in the spring BEFORE I replaced the servo.

I have a HH Blade 200S heli which is mainly flown indoors and has developed a severe wobble in roll (left/right cyclic), coincident with the roll servo packing up. Right at the end of our indoor flying season back in the spring, it started to wobble violently, forcing me to land. The summer passed by, and I remembered that I needed to investigate before our new autumn indoor season started. This was when I discovered that the left/right cyclic (Spektrum H3050) servo had packed up. I bought a current H3055 equivalent one to replace it, and successfully ran the Servo Neutral Position and Calibration procedures as per the manual, however it still suffers severe left/right oscillation on attempting to fly it. I see there is also a Gain Adjustment routine in the instruction manual. Should I need to run this too after a servo replacement, or is it more likely the gyro system has packed up too?

Hi Jonah, for wing type Elevon (and tail type set to Normal) with a DX8 you would usually plug the right elevon into Ch2 at the receiver, and the left into Ch3. You should be able to see whether the transmitter is sending the right outputs by going into the monitor (press the scroll wheel and scroll down to Monitor in the menu). This should show Ch2 & Ch3 markers both moving in the same direction together when wiggling the aileron joystick left & right, and show the Ch2 & Ch3 markers moving in opposite directions when moving the same stick (assuming you’re on Mode 2) up and down.

My modelling workshop is a lightly insulated 10x6ft garden type wooden shed. I find that two 120W tube heaters keep the inside at +2 or +3°C even when it’s -5°C outside (so paint, glue etc. doesn’t freeze). The only problem in recent years has been that with increased energy costs, I’ve been reluctant to put them on - moving some things indoors instead when it’s really cold.

Thanks! Yep, they have a real presence in the air, despite only being small. Mine’s so old it was originally fitted with NiCads, but it was transformed by modifying it for a (1600mAh 3S) lipo some years ago.

Interesting paint job Simon! I assume like mine, your wings are carved from a piece of 1/4” solid balsa sheet. I built mine in 2005, and I still fly it regularly now some 19 years later, although it did have a complete new nose grafted on following a terrible hand launch and subsequent crash about 3 years ago. Yep, they go well don’t they (mine has a Mega 16/15/4 and an APC 6X4 for propulsion).