Martin Harris - Moderator

Let’s get back to talking about IDS and splines - or has this thread run its course?

Let’s not labour this point. I don’t see any racial discrimination here - just an observation on quality of some of the cheaper products from China - which I’m sure all of us have experienced.

This was my solution to a not particularly efficient “silencer” inherited with a part built Black Horse FW190 which came with a 26cc petrol engine. There was a small reduction in outlet area but the effect on noise was dramatic - and sound quality much enhanced, disguising any 2 stroke howl to give a very pleasant tone. Internal details

If it’s water mist then I believe it’s a valid method which limits access to oxygen and removes heat - two of the three vital components for combustion.

https://www.modelflying.co.uk/code-conduct/ A thread has just come to my notice which was started with a quote from a private message sent by me in my capacity as a moderator. This is clearly in breach of the code of conduct, and I would encourage all members to take a few minutes to read it (link above). The thread has been hidden until the moderators have a chance to study its contents.

There's an envelope icon which should display a "flag" when you have a message - just click on that. You should also get an email with a link to the PM. No donations necessary - this is a mutual help and discussion forum...but you're free to give something to a worthy charity if you feel that way.

PM sent.

Hi Halsey - duplicate post removed. Please be aware that all items for sale require approval from a moderator before they become visible to the forum - this is a measure to reduce scamming attempts from rogue users...certainly nothing personal!

Link from Andy's suggestion for cowling

While I agree that there’s always an element of risk in model flying and unnecessary legislation or condemnation of activities involving informed participants isn’t appropriate, it does remind me of a very similar model being demonstrated at a public show a number of years ago. Having taken my family, I was acutely aware of the potential danger and more than a little concerned (and I still remain to be convinced that the flight line distance adhered to display rules). With that, and a highly skilled but incredibly high risk full size helicopter display, I resolved not to take them again.

It’s a hard “two stick” product, similar to Milliput and forms a mouldable putty so sadly, totally inappropriate for this type of repair, I’m afraid.

If anyone knows of a product that would withstand the heat, pressure and vibration to make a permanent seal in this situation, I’d love to know more about it!

n an earlier post, I mentioned that I might do a redesign of the case to incorporate the charging module/display from the disposable vape. I’ve finished my “production” version which seems to function well on the single vape battery (650 mAh LiPo) and now shows the battery state for about 10 seconds after power on (and about 4 seconds after switching off). An evening’s continuous use reduced the state to 90% so even if it isn’t happy at lower voltages, there’s a decent usage time (not yet established) and it recharges quickly (and can be used during charging) from any USB source. Displays after powering on The internals The vape to look for! Power supply connection details If anyone wants to copy this, the new STL files are attached. Case.stl Base.stl Cell Support.stl Bezel.stl

Cost? This is a free forum comprising many model flying and building enthusiasts who will be happy to share the benefits of their experience. Welcome Clive.

Try to get cold airflow over the ESC as well. Make a small air scoop if necessary - and make sure there’s a larger exit - ensuring a good path over the ESC’s heat sink.

You can, but it’s more efficient to reduce the load by using either a smaller pitch or diameter, appropriate to the model.

There are a lot of variables but could you borrow a few props for testing from fellow club members? Many long established modellers are likely to have a stash - redundant IC props would give you some ball park indications too.

A 5mm shaft suggests a reasonably capable motor. Power capability of a motor relates closely to heat generation/dissipation. With no motor information, you could adopt a trial and error process, gradually increasing prop size and/or cell count, monitoring motor temperature after short - then longer - runs. For safety, the motor shouldn't get hotter than you find comfortable to touch. Work from behind the prop, as you would with IC and disconnect the battery between "finger" tests... A Wattmeter is invaluable for experimenting with motor and battery combinations so beg, borrow or buy one if at all possible!

Hope you're planning to stick around on the forum - would you like to change your name to something less specific?

Yes - a couple of lessons to be learnt here. One is to read the thread title more carefully and the other is to post important info about a question in the original post! Well spotted though Brian. If the 7c can’t be programmed to reverse surfaces in its elevon mix (I would think just a matter of setting direction(s) from + to - or vice versa in the mix) and a physical reversal is impractical, then it may still be possible to obtain (or build) an electronic servo reverser. You might also bear in mind that some servos operate in reverse rotation e.g. Hitec do (or did?).

Hmmm - still ok on the other models? Sounds like memory corruption then. Perhaps clear the memory and reprogram from scratch? However, it doesn’t make sense that swapping the servo connections didn't make any difference!

I don’t know whether channels can be reassigned on the 7c but you could just swap the servo plugs in the receiver channels. Is this a new radio or have you bought it second hand? Maybe the internal connections have been swapped?

Which receiver channel do you have each function connected to? Futaba usually uses 1 for aileron and 2 for elevator.

A few words of praise for HobbyRC - I ordered a couple of ESCs and a programming card from them yesterday, just before their 16.00 cut-off deadline. 19 hours later, they arrived safely. Refreshingly, the P&P charge for 24 hour tracked delivery was only £2.95 - quite a contrast from a well known and often recommended supplier who added postage on each individual item on a recent order - totalling just under £8 for a similar sized - but standard service - package a week or so ago. I do find some supplier’s postage charges so annoying that I will abandon an order and look elsewhere when I come across these hidden added premiums.

Slow blow fuses use a "blob" of solder as the fusible link, situated between a spring on one side and a plain wire on the other. They are obvious with clear glass types but are usually prefixed with a T for identification whereas "standard" fuses will be marked with an F, e.g. F1A for a 1 amp fuse. Rather than a thin fuse wire melting instantaneously when too much current passes through them, there is a time delay while the solder heats up before melting - when the spring pulls the connection apart with a large enough gap to prevent the possibility of a sustained arc. When a lamp filament first passes current, its relatively low resistance can blow a fast blow (ordinary) fuse but once the filament is glowing white hot, its resistance is much higher (this is where the specified wattage is quoted) so that the current reduces sustantially. It's very quick but if you've picked a value of fuse based on the lamp wattage (i.e. by calculating the current at a particular voltage) then you might have unexplained fuse failures.