David Hazell 1

I consider SuperPhatic to be completely different to aliphatic resin. I use both. I love SuperPhatic for joints where wicking helps - i.e. wing ribs to spars. I use aliphatic resin for anything where I'm joining long lengths to other long lengths. Like say adding triangle to the bottom of a fuse side etc.

I covered my A10 in supermatt 42 micron (I asked for 38, but ended up with 42, ho hum). I _expected_ the paint to adhere really well, but it really doesn't, it's flaking off all over the place. I use a cloth dampened with isopropyl alcohol to rub over the whole model to ensure dust free, but it wasn't enough. Expect to have to properly key any lam film no matter what the finish if you don't want paint flaking off. I will make sure I go the extra step next time!

I did a build log of my A10 build on google photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/vECz78aDhvmBczh68

Brilliant! Let me know how the maiden goes! I too had to perform extensive surgery on the back end to get the servo moving freely, but luckily it didn't end up with a burnt out servo. Having a rudder definitely helps me though as mine is a tail dragger and I can get it pointing the right way whilst gaining enough speed for take off. I will hope to fly it again this weekend, weather permitting.

Sounds a whole lot nicer too...

It sounds absolutely EPIC. Out of interest, what's the power like compared to the 2 stroke petrol engine you had in it?

I tried to get mine to rotate off a grass strip the other day. Mulch on strip not good for edf! The mulch clogged a fan and snapped the central mounting screw on one of the fans! I think I had it screwed down a bit too tight which probably weakened it. I've replaced the m2 screw with an m2 allen (all I had). I can't realistically balance the cone and fan now (access issues!), so it might be waiting to shake the plane to pieces. Waiting for less wind before I try again!

VID_20230415_173026.mp4 Did a quick maiden - worked a treat! I didn't have the guts to fly it myself, I got my mate Toby to do it as he's an awesome pilot. I didn't get the whole flight unfortunately.

a couple of these: https://uk.banggood.com/QX-MOTOR-50mm-12-Blades-Ducted-Fan-EDF-CW-CCW-with-QF2611-3S-4S-Brushless-Motor-for-RC-Airplane-Jet-p-1569275.html?rmmds=detail-left-hotproducts&cur_warehouse=CN&ID=51187045905&trace_id=c8441680542047345

Loving your work. I made the mistake of gluing everything into the engine pods and have no access now which was the wrong move. I discovered my 950g thrust 35 amp edfs are only pulling 22 amps so I guess only making 600 odd grams of thrust. I've finished my plane for all intents and purposes now, only remains to get it maidened! I'll post pics of the finished model soon.

Needs to be flown with a transparent as glass cowl like the bonnet in Grease, to show off the beautiful power plant.

Make it scale and stick the leg on the right hand side?!

Lovely lovely work there!

What do these symbols mean? I can't find anywhere online that tells me!!!

"Spared no expense!" (Richard Attenborough in Jurassic Park) !!!

Do you dilute the isopropyl alcohol in water? I've read somewhere else that it's still effective at 10%, but I guess it wouldn't evaporate so readily.

That's a beaut!

Looking brilliant!

So I have almost finished the build, covered her with matt laminating film and about to airbrush as scantily as possible. Without paint or battery, she's up to 1114g! I don't know how people get their weights so much significantly lower than mine! Maybe I use too much filler! I mean I have an extra 30 odd grams of weight thanks to fitting rudders but that's not even close to @Colin Low 2's final weight!!! I had thought about sticking a 5000mah battery in the front to make sure she wasn't tail heavy with all that rudder servo action going on at the back, but I think I might have to stick with 3300mahs instead!

Lego jig for fin attachment and nice angles!

There's an angle gauge for N2 angle...

KInda sad I missed getting involved in this build. Such a beautiful aeroplane!

Oh I glued it to the fan using superphatic (my favourite wicking adhesive). Superglue would work just as well I should think! I then passed the whole fan unit through the constructed engine pod and secured it from behind with hot glue.

What do you mean by bell housing? The only hot glue I used was to secure the EDF units (and then only on the back of the hole and against the edf, and then to secure the acetate thrust tubes to the EDFs. I made a bit of a pigs ear of the hot glue work, but it is all hidden away now. Completely not serviceable at all if/when a fan goes bang! I've added the fillets to the engine housing now. Looks very Starship Enterprise indeed! I also decided to copy you and and my cooling exhaust slots under the engine pod former. Bit of a thin slit which I might well need to increase in area but it's certainly going to be well hidden: I'll feather it all in to be smooth tomorrow. I'm approaching the point where I need to start covering the fuselage soon. I will add some cockpit detail and some of the more obvious sticky out bits (like the long rectangular bit on top between the engine pods, the radar sensors on the tail, the little nobbles on the either side of the nose. I don't want to go over the top because it's really not that accurate a scale model, what with the lack of flaps and "proper" undercarriage. I will know when I've gotten far enough for my liking. As it is, I'm not adding all the ordnance rails to the wing, so maybe I just need to dial it back and accept it as it is! oh and I'm going to copy this paint scheme (no need for weathering!): https://www.thedrive.com/the-war-zone/41483/behold-the-awesomeness-of-this-black-a-10-warthog

Notice the way the rear engine pod vac form is only symmetrical side to side, not top to bottom. The plan does show this pretty well, hopefully you can see that from my pictures.