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Panther Trainer Autogyro


Richard Harris
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Andy,

Thanks for the info thumbs up

Barry,

Welcome to the forum, if you check your PM's I answered all your questions last weekthumbs up, there is a section on the forum for new members to intoduce themselves. Always worth while doing this as you are sure to get a warm welcome from other like minded fools.

Alan,

To add a little more to the good info Andy has already given the 3mm ply which makes up the tongue can be made from either. I have made 2 models and one was Lite ply and the other Birch ply, neither have failed after a good 12 months testing with no wear apparent (and they have been abusedsmile p)

I have often thought of using FG sheet to face each side aswell and maybe the use of falnged bearings, but the method and materials stated (bothe materials) has been tried and tested.

A few more links for supplies of Fibre Glass sheet, 1.5mm/1.6mm/ 1/16" thickness's all work well.

The first is some PCB board which comes coated with copper on one or both sides, I have used this with the cpper still on and it works fine. Just use a scriber to mark out the triangle and the job is a 'good un', it can be cut with a hack saw, guilotine or tin snips very easily then just filed to shape.

PCB

The second link is a gent off Ebay, he really is quick at delivering and you do a get alt of FG for your money. Interestingly, he also does thinner stuff which is good for Crane Flies and Fire Flies.

Ebay FG sheet

I have been up the field this afternoon and my friend that some of you are sure to remember, David Vaughan, has just started building a Panther. He is quite excited it and says it makes a refreshing change.

Rich

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Hi Richard,

Started building Panther because it's an unusual project.

Had a few problems so far with the plan/write up and pic in RCME.

Thought you might like to know.

1/ Mast. Plan and write up states Hard Balsa sandwitch. Pic in mag states Ply core??

2/ Mast top tongue. Liteply on plan. Ply in mag. Hole different location on either side of plan??

3/ Servo positions. Top serveo mounting lug fouls on LMS2 (servo hole needs to be lower)

4/ LMS2 and UMS2 reversed on either side of plan.

Nearly finished mast.

Finding building and understanding plan bit difficult. Hope Fuz is more straightforward.

Not moaning just hope I may be able to assist others.

Regards j3hne

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There's been talk on this thread about bending the top decking around bottles and similar. I did it another way. I laminated two layers of thinner wood, and each layer bends easily. The first layer is stuck as normal, and when dry the second layer is attached with an Impact adhesive. Here's my attempt at the mast decking. Only problem I had was that the wood was not a uniform thickness even though the pieces were cut from the same sheet.

p1020582.jpg

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Nice idea. When I did mine I just planged it using 4mm thick by 3mm wide strips and good ol fahsioned Balsa Glue. When you sand it down the friction warms up the glue and it mixes with the balsadust and makes a really lite weight filler. I have used this methos on many compund curves with great success.

Tim

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John,

Thanks for the 'issues' regarding the plan, your info is sure to help others. However, if anyone does need a photo or explanation on anything regarding the Panther just ask away. I did submit quite a few photos but only a handful got printed, so I have plenty to hand. As for being complicated to build I think is more me and my writing than the actual putting together that is the issueembarrassed. The fuselage is the easy bitwink 2

Robert,

I like it!, I wonder whether 2 laminations is infact stronger than one piece?

Crack on Boys!

Rich

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Hey Chaps:

I have had the privilege to build the Panther early on and with the help of Rich I did a build log on the R/C Groups on the other side of the Pond. I have opened that blog again and invite any and all who wish to view it to do so. Both entertaining and informative. for those of you looking for a video on how the Panther handles in the air and narrated by the author go to POST #49. Any and all Questions should be addressed to Rich not me because I don't want to give out misinformation and this is Riches Rodeo not minethumbs up . Rich was bound and determined to help me get into the air and never let me give up and never gave up on me. The result is one very happy camper with several autogyos and flight under my belt Yup I'm a gyronaut for sure.

Bill

**LINK**

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Hi Richard,

I hope you don't think I'm 'Nit Picking'

If I find something amiss I want to tell others to help them with their builds.

Must be very difficult to draw a plan and get it 100%

Hope my feedback is useful.

Updates would be great.

Ps. Enjoying the build and will recommend it to others.

Regards j3hne

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John,

You are not 'Nit Picking' at all, if there is in issue with something I am sure every builder would like to know from someone who has first hand experience with the magazine build. This also goes for different techniques in building, I for one am learning a few of your tricks and I am sure others are too! That's what makes these forums such a great thing, bouncing different ideas off each otherthumbs up

Feedback whether good or bad is good to hear and I do appriciate it.

Rich

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Rich

I think it would be the right move to get David to print an adendum to the plan in the next issue, and then to corect the plan before it went on sale later. Not everyone has access to the internet and/or uses forums. It would be good to get this sorted out before the woodpack is available (I am thinking of the RPG woodpack) . It would not be a good thing if the woodpack had the wrong bits in. Most, if not all, experienced modellers would find away around these issues but it would be good to have it right first time.

Tim

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Rich

I had a good look at Mud Duck Bill's vids, it looked to me as though there wasn't any form of breeze/wind, as he was trying for a take off in either direction, surely this was a disadvantage and reasons for Panthers lack of lift?

I can see now after reading Tim's post it would be right to make the necessary corrections.

Terry

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 26/02/2013 14:38:07

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Hi,

Found the bit about blind nuts. (sorry)

Will fit before gluing in plate.

Fuz is 80mm. You suggest 75mm centres for undercart bolts.

This leaves 5mm on each side. Bit of a squeeze?

Think I'll use 40mm bolt centres. This will allow blind nuts to clear triangle fillet.

Cheers j3hne.

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Can anybody recommend the power set up and where to buy from ( battery, esc, motor, prop, spinner,prop adapter etc.)

Also, I have bought some of the bearings for the rotor head. Had to buy a pack of 10. If any body wants to buy a few (at cost price + postage) just let me know.

Question for Malcom. In the photo above, it looks like you have fitted tail wheel. Could you please share the details?

Gary

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Thanks Guys for the compliments, much appreciated. It makes the last few weeks worth it!

A couple more photos before the big cover up,

img_0685.jpg

A couple of things I did differently as seen in the photo. I went for large round ventilation as its easier to cut (drill) than slots.

I have gone with a built up tailplane, mainly because I like when the Sun lights them up!, but it also saved about 15g on the weight which was about what I have added by using a rear mounted rudder servo, so hopefully cancel each other out.

img_0686.jpg

A close up of the Cowl - just because i'm so pleased with how it turned out - the first one I've ever carved! (only been modeling 25yrs, still learning)

img_0689.jpg

An inside view (not pretty). I made a duplicate F1 and cut away the centre section, I fixed this to the main body with captive nuts and it screws to the model from inside the battery bay. I then built up the balsa blocks on to the F1 frame - It meant I had something solid and tangable to sand the shape, rather then a pencil line or paper template.

The ventilation air inlet is a buckle, I'm embarrassed to say I was in a dress making shop and saw them.

The tail wheel is just a standard tailwheel I had lying around, I need to make the plate to fit on the bottom of the rudder as I've lost the original.

Erflog,

The Undercarriage, I have to admit, I bought from dbsportandscale.com - they make custom undercarriages - minimum charge is £10 + p&p so I got this for £13. Just send them dimensions for a quote, they turned round very fast. (I did also get some Dural from them so I'll make the next one!)

Malcolm

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Thanks Rich.

I am getting on with the build (slowly). Not too many problems - same things as other people have spotted on the plans.

One thing I am unsure about is the rudder servo as it seems to be boxed in with no access after completing the build. I may put it on the outside of the fuz or in the same area as the mast (a bit tight in there though).

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