Big T Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 The STL files for the blades are in the FILES section of our private facebook group RC Model Autogyros Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joakim Karlsson 1 Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Oatham Posted June 16, 2021 Share Posted June 16, 2021 On 29/01/2021 at 18:37, Richard Harris said: Joakim, As Tim suggests the wooden blades are straight forward to construct though the 3D printed versions seem to fly just as well. Here is a video taken at our one and only get together last year, there is a Panther taking off at around 2.43 which has printed blades designed by Ian Smith. These are made in segments attached onto a carbon spar, the MK1 versions taped together but I believe the latest interlock together. If a blade gets damaged the segments can be replaced quickly and easily, its all very clever. The tri plate is easy enough to make yourself, I print out the triangle onto paper and spray glue it onto the GF sheet, then cut out using tin snips before filing and sanding to shape. Aluminium for the UC can be bought from DB Sport and scale. Rich Hi Rich, I've just got my shiny new 3D printer (Artillery X1) and fancy having a go at printing some blades for my Atom and Panther models. Where can I locate the STL files suitable for these models? I've looked at the 'Files' section for the group but don't see them there. The ones that you say interlock sound interesting. Any advice on the printing side would be appreciated, for example which type of material etc. Many thanks Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted June 16, 2021 Author Share Posted June 16, 2021 5 hours ago, David Oatham said: Hi Rich, I've just got my shiny new 3D printer (Artillery X1) and fancy having a go at printing some blades for my Atom and Panther models. Where can I locate the STL files suitable for these models? I've looked at the 'Files' section for the group but don't see them there. The ones that you say interlock sound interesting. Any advice on the printing side would be appreciated, for example which type of material etc. Many thanks Dave Dave, I think there are STL files on our FB group for blades, there will also be a simple model on Coolwinds site free to print shortly. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy J Posted December 11, 2021 Share Posted December 11, 2021 Panther is now receiving some attention after a long lay off in the build process. Got to the stage where I need to build a rotor plate. Thought I had some 1.5mm fiberglass board as detailed on the plan, but the borrows appear to have taken it. Do have some thin aluminium plate, so could I use that as a substitute material? Thickness of the aluminium is in the region of 1mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outrunner Posted December 11, 2021 Share Posted December 11, 2021 Andy. I don't think aluminium will work as it needs to spring back into place, aluminium wont spring back if you push it too far. Epoxy glass board us completely different properties. I'm building an autogyro at the moment and I got some epoxy board from Leeds model shop, my usual source Malcolm from Coolwind seems to be having a break at present. Hopefully Malcolm will be back soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy J Posted December 11, 2021 Share Posted December 11, 2021 Yes did look at the Coolwind site and saw that they are currently closed. Plenty of 1.5mm board on ebay, but most of it appears to be located in the far east. Will try a further search using 'epoxy glass'. Did think aluminium was not suitable as previously I had seen post that suggested the plate needs to flex slightly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outrunner Posted December 11, 2021 Share Posted December 11, 2021 Model shop Leeds have some epoxy glass sheet in stock with all the sizes you need, I've just got some from them, very reasonable postage charges too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted December 11, 2021 Author Share Posted December 11, 2021 Andy, Just had a quick search and found this https://www.hyperflight.co.uk/products.asp?code=FG-SHEET-15&name=glass-fibre-sheet-1-5mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy J Posted December 12, 2021 Share Posted December 12, 2021 Thanks Richard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy J Posted December 15, 2021 Share Posted December 15, 2021 Order placed with the LMS given they do indeed have cheap postal rates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codepox Posted December 17, 2021 Share Posted December 17, 2021 I bought this Astroflight gearbox on Ebay, it was sold a 710 Superbox, is it the right gearbox to build a panther? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted December 17, 2021 Author Share Posted December 17, 2021 That's the big version I think, its more than strong enough for the Panther Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codepox Posted December 18, 2021 Share Posted December 18, 2021 The shaft is 1/4", is the smaller version more appropriate for the panther, do you have a part number or a picture of the smaller version? I am looking for aluminum for the undercarriage, 6082 seems hard to find here in the USA, is 6061 OK? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codepox Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 I read in the thread that the left/pitch servo needs to be lowered. Has someone a picture or can describe the problem? Does the servo needs to move to the right or just down, by how much? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted December 24, 2021 Author Share Posted December 24, 2021 14 hours ago, codepox said: I read in the thread that the left/pitch servo needs to be lowered. Not heard of that one and I know to a lot of Panthers that have been built. As long as you have free movement of the servo arms and control rods then it will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codepox Posted December 24, 2021 Share Posted December 24, 2021 I found this post on page 10: Quote Rich, I slight problem with the Pitch servo location. I think it may be worth moving its position down the mast by a few millimeters, as I'm finding that the mounting lugs are very close/clash with the Lower Mast Support. I'm going to have to relieve the Lower support a little to clear the servo lug, Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codepox Posted December 28, 2021 Share Posted December 28, 2021 After reading the all thread, I have compiled this list of errata building from the plan, hope this helps other also. - Head support brackets (Tongues) Birch Ply wood preferred over Lite Ply - Left/Pitch servo lower by ~5mm, mounting lugs too close to Lower Mast Support - Hatch Base H3: 20mm too long, side view is correct - Pivot head hole 15mm from the top instead of 20mm, side view is correct - Under Carriage aluminum drill hole 30mm from center, 35mm on the plan is incorrect - Engine right trust 2 degrees not mentioned on the plan - On the side view, the labelling of LMS1 and UMS2 are reversed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy J Posted January 7, 2022 Share Posted January 7, 2022 Well my Panther has now moved on in the build process with the fuselage now complete but after covering all three blades with old Solarfilm I was far from happy with the covering quality of application so ripped it all off and I am currently proceeding down the path of simply painting the blades. However the reason I post is that I am concerned the the rotor head mount is insufficient to take the loads induced by the blades having only holes at the rear for two M2.5 screws. There is insufficient metal to drill a third hole at the front so do you recommend that I engineer some form of shaped clamp at the front? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted January 7, 2022 Author Share Posted January 7, 2022 Andy, I have my gearbox mounted the opposite way around to you with an extra hole drill in the centre of the two existing holes. If you are going to keep yours mounted the same as it is I would certainly add some form of strap at the front as its likely going to be forced upwards in that orientation. Nice job by the way! Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted January 8, 2022 Share Posted January 8, 2022 I dangled 21 kilos on an Hk 2.2mm servo screw and still did not break ( shearing force ) the main problem is vibration so get those blades properly balanced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy J Posted January 8, 2022 Share Posted January 8, 2022 Trying to get the blades with 0.1g of each other by adjusting the amount of paint applied. At the moment the error is 0.5g across all three blades but yet to complete the painting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted January 8, 2022 Share Posted January 8, 2022 Are you putting the paint on in the right place, cross balancing on a knife blade ?. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy J Posted January 15, 2022 Share Posted January 15, 2022 Paul, the blade pivot hole was positioned on the chord balance point prior to covering which I subsequently removed. Had not given any thought to this aspect so will do a quick check now that the blades are painted. How citical is the blade chord balance point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted January 15, 2022 Share Posted January 15, 2022 (edited) Since I have balanced my blades this way Helicopter and Auto gyros I haven't had any vibrations in them, I started around 1990 doing this before then ( 1985 ) all my twirly machines just seemed to shake themselves to destruction, ? Edited January 15, 2022 by Paul De Tourtoulon , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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