Tim Mackey Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 The odd thing is that solarlac doesnt appear to be available in olive drab! That poses a problem if I want to just paint the rear end Also, its not available in the tan either, although that could always be mixed up I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly P Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Tim - Depending on results from my testing of the Tamiya Acrylics and the airbrush I might be able to get a good match in Tan - I do have some I think (at work atm) so might already have one that matches without having to mix, failing that I have heard that the B&Q water based paint sprays OK, and they can do that handy colour match thing.... Again I would get a small pot and test first. Olly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Olly I have been spraying with B&Q emulsion/acrylic amongst other paints (Crown, etc) and art paints from tubes. I used to use "Windscreen Cleaning Fluid" for dilution. I have since changed to "Windsor &Newton Flow Improver" and water which is significantly better. I have used straight water, but found that over thinning was required, and very careful stirring/mixing to produce a homogenous mix. Both Windscreen and the Improver makes life much easier. I do use F&W inks, which spray well, no thinning etc. I know there are many other manufacturers, some favoured just because they are obscure in their origin. F&W are mainstream, mainstream cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gilder Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Personally Tim, I use acrylic waterbased paints for my airbrushing. (just doing the F16 with them) followed at the end by a coat or 2 of acrylic varnish. May need a few coats but looks good after! Dave (tx on top of a hill dept!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 To summarize. 1) Id like to be able to utilize the two rolls of olive drab I already have. 2) Id like to avoid covering the tail end other than painting 3) How the heck can I ensure a perfect match of the olive drab tex with paint. 4) Im rubbish at covering, especially paint, so Marty is my painter. Afterthought: I could apply tex all over the fuselage, including the rear, but leave all the fin and taiplane as it is ( polyC and f/glass ). The whole fin is black, and the undersides of all the tailfeathers are also black, so they can be painted. The top surface only of the tailplane can be covered with the olive drab tex, and can be painted after, that shouldnt add too much weight. Wadya reckon? Wings will be tex all over and camo painted. Edited By Tim Mackey on 18/05/2012 14:59:12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly P Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 I'd take an off cut to B&Q and get a colour match done, then get it sprayed on. A small pot should be enough to do the tail. perfect match might be difficult, but it should be a good match, especially by the time additional colours go on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 tim- it'll be cheaper to cover the new model in ten pound note's.... ken anderson ne..1 .. TM fan club dept. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Spray/airbrushing uses far less paint than brushing. I think Olly is suggesting that B&Q type paint pots are also far cheaper than products targeted at modellers. Perhaps the most expensive are the acrylics from tamiya, Revell, Humbrol. Are they better than B&Q, probably better milled/ground. Not in the same league as artist materials for colour stability and fineness of pigments etc. I have used all, in my opinion for RC model aircraft, that fly, rather come out once every Blue Moon, Match pots take some beating, though do need thinning more than Tamiya/Humbrol/Revell pots. Varnishes do change there hue (even if clear) with age. For a RC model, it probably just does not matter, they do not live long enough. For some aircraft the varnish does help catch the finish, where a lacquer has been used on the full size aircraft. Again artist varnish is possibly more stable than Ronseal, Poly C, but I personally would not bet on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly P Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Indeed, Cheaper is one word, but they have the advantage of that colour match capability and this means for Tims Tan 'tex they may hold the answer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Although you can get colour match via B&Q type outlets, I am not sure it is necessary in most cases. One thing that many do not recognise, the apparent shade of the top coat is very much affected by the base coat colours and top coat film thickness. I am suggesting that either a white or grey undercoat can shift the hue quite a lot, an advantage and a potential problem. I am a strong fan of Artist materials, especially student ranges, high quality, cheap, although not colour stable, quite often. Yet how often does a model last +20 years, and stand for days in direct sunlight? I do think a problem that Tim may encounter if different substrate is used, is that getting an apparently consistent colour hue can be a challenge. Of course if a heavy base and top coat is piled on, the issue is minimised, though weight is increased. Tim would worry about this, philistines like me would shrug our shoulders and say, the full size had varied shades to (not necessarily like mine). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 He He, just remembered this old thread - hard to believe this project has been dormant for almost 4 years. I have just had so much on in the personal department and latterly a lack of building mojo due to tiredness from work. However, things are looking brighter, if not necessarily quieter, so hopefully a resurrection is on the cards. Its cetainly not dead - spent far too much money and time on her, and Im still dead keen to see a few buffs together at the big rock, hopefully later this year - but dont shout at me if it is later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 It would be great to see this one back on the stocks - more power to your elbow Tim! BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Meade Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Oh my good gravy....get on it Timbo! Daily.updates now I hope...?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 I'll give you the next 60 or so daily updates now Andy - its akin to the famous pub sign " Free beer tomorrow". Edited By Tim Mackey on 05/04/2016 18:58:59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Good to see you getting back in the saddle Timbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Jones Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 'eck I thought you'd finished it ages ago! Not that I have room to talk, unfinished models all over the pleace . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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