jeff2wings Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 And here’s the second one I did in 2009/10 , from this..............to this........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 Doesnt sound like very mock combat Jeff ,it was perfect flying weather over the weekend,expected you to be doing its maiden flight,not allowed out i suppose!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff2wings Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 The tail chopping was the result of some “expert” flying , if you know what I mean I will not be ready to maiden Legonaire No 3 just yet Steve !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Hello Jeff.A very nice re-build ,re-cycling at its best . I see you call this legionaire three . Have you flown the scout seriese legionaire before? . if you have no problems but if you haven't then you may want to know that they can be a so-and-so for ground looping . I had all sorts of problems with mine some years ago.I powered it with a Enya 60 FS .Once in the air It was a peach to fly , but getting up to air speed was at times difficult . The cure In my case was to fix the wheels to an axle so both had to turn together. No more problems after that .Another thing that may be of interest is that the plastic flair use for the wheels can be adversly affected by painting with the wrong sort of paint. I painted thewheels on mine with solarlac silver to match the silver tex covering . All was fine for a while then the plastic degenerated to a sort of egg shell cosistancy and shattered down to the hub one day while taxying !So beware. I sold it at the Plumpton show some years ago after many happy flights .Let us know how your model ground handles . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff2wings Posted January 21, 2012 Author Share Posted January 21, 2012 Well I have had a few of the Flair scout series , magnatilla , puppeteer , Fokker D7 and Legonaire x 3 , the legonaire being perhaps the less easy of them to handle on the ground , however I think this is because most people do not add any side thrust ( 3 deg min ) , without it the plane will swing hard left .My first legonaire ( bob ) built in 1994 had a Enya 46 fs in it and I have just replaced it with a O.S 46 Ts due to the Enya getting a bit tired .Think I must have used the right paint on both sets of wheels as they haven’t collapsed yet !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 And jeff usually gets 1st 2nd and 3rd in the vintage scale,builds unbelievably brilliant models,flies perfectly scale,even using the throttle to make the engine sound like its being controlled by the pilot and is sickenly talented as a flier,,and is a really nice bloke to,and all the club foggies are in love with his wife. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff2wings Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 Thanks Steve , that last bit made I laffSo , the wings , well after a bit of thought I decided to scrap the lower wing as it was to damaged and I needed to increase the span buy one bay each side . I stuck with the original structure with 6x3 spars but from hard balsa , T.E. from medium wood and cut new ribs from 3 mm light ply and a larger L.E. from 9 mm sq wood , I did salvage the ply braces . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff2wings Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 Well have got back into the icebox or the garage as it’s also known as , and finished the lower wing off , apart from the increased span I have added sheeting to the L/E as this was a feature on the 27/28 Nieuports , saves cutting all those riblets ! I have now started on the main wing , the right hand panel was completely broken away as a result of to soft wood in the spars , L/E and T/E , so I dismantled the wing saving the light ply ribs , it was then rebuilt the only mod being to replace the T/E with a solid section instead of a built up one , the I did much the same with the left hand panel.....hummm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff2wings Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 Well it’s warmed up a bit today and I’ve got the calour gas heater going ( apparently it needs a gas bottle with gas in it so a bit more progress with the wings. I have decided not to fully sheet the center section so added some extra bracing with light ply where the servo box is located , also it means I can reduce the thickness of T/E cut out to improve the look. need to make a new ailron now that's more like it !! BTW this is not my normal build standard , very ruff n' ready weekend flyer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff2wings Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 I’ve also cut out F1 more to enable the engine ( O.S. 48 FS )to sit further back in the cowl , this actually puts the carb behind F1 in the tank bay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff2wings Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 A bit more progress , engine mounted , carb behind F1 not to much engine sticking out the front wings done apart from servos in top wing Suppose I will have to decide on the colour scheme now !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 Exellent wood working skills Jeff, if you dont mind me saying so. We have one of these at our patch, its battered and bruised with a warped wing and elevator. Its years old but its owner loves its flying qualities, and even handles the wind well. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Nice progress Jeff looking forward to seeing what colour scheme you decide on ,your choices are usually excellant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff2wings Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 Thanks for the comments FB3 but I think it’s my poor photographic skills that make it look good , not my wood working ones I am using a two servo setup instead of a servo in the middle with pushrods as on the two previous models , luckily I “found “ some new mini servos in my servo box that I forgot I had ! LoL , it will make setting up the differential easier . And as for the colour scheme it will be of the silver variety , but not the common French or British type Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Fairgrieve Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Polish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff2wings Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 Nice model Kevin ! no , not Polish or Russian but a bit further east Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff2wings Posted February 27, 2012 Author Share Posted February 27, 2012 The reason I’m going for silver is that I intend to use profilm rather than a solartex finish in the hope of a lighter AUW , also with the modifications I have made , I think keeping the back end as light as possible can only be a good thing Japanese N27 (Nakajima Ko .3 ) But this Turkish one looks good And this one as well !!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff2wings Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 Next job on the wing is to make the interplane strut mounting points , the original Flair ones are 1.2 mm steel plates with nuts soldered on ,some people have trouble with soldering and others with the plates pulling out although I never had these issues . So here’s an alternative way of making them Use 1.6 mm m/s plate Drill 2.4 hole and tap 3mm fold a right angel Cut out light ply anchors Slot and rebate Glue in position And there you go , no chance of your nuts coming adrift or the plates pulling out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Very helpful Jeff as ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff2wings Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 And here’s the finished servo box and strut mount with the sheeting in place for the covering to attach to , the only part of the servo that will be visible after covering will be the servo arm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff2wings Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 So onto the ailerons ( last bit of the wing build ) First draw out aileron Lower sheeting Add light ply ribs Add L/E & light ply tip Finished aileron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff2wings Posted March 10, 2012 Author Share Posted March 10, 2012 Well on the way now , added the strut mounting points to lower wing and replaced the twin dowel mounting pegs with a single central one , to do this I had to remove a couple of fuselage cross members to get access to drill the new hole .I then attached both wings to check there alignment for the interplane struts there ‘s a 20 mm difference in height ! After thinking about this with the help of a cup of tea I removed the 1/16 sheeting under the right hand strut so it sits on the hard wood mounting block in the wing .Bingo ! spot on both sides , with that sorted the u/c was straightened out and re-mounted and a quick “ lets’ see how it looks now” photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 that's almost too pretty to cover up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 Jeff 2 Wings Well if you use the antique linen coloured solartex at least you'll see some of the construction especially if the sun is shining.'tis what I used on the underside of my pupeteer with drab/olive green on the top surfaces. In someways I wished I'd covered it all over with the linen colour just so as to see the construction better. Myron YO13 colour scheme dept PS I think you might need a fin and a rudder & of course a nice smelly SC 52 Fs up front or similar (See mine on my album if you like ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff2wings Posted March 17, 2012 Author Share Posted March 17, 2012 You mean like this Or this You’re a very mischievous man Myron , it’s taken me ages to make up my mind and then you go and do that ......... however I’m sticking with the Japanese scheme , er, but that one with the black fuselage looks good with its skull & crossbones that’s very tempting , oh , and that one from No 1 squadron ......???! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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