Daniel Cardona Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 Any way here's mine fitted with the Laser 80, the ARTF model i believe has a much wider cowl so a laser 70 should fit very nice. since i dont use pressure feed from the exhaust i was thinking to use a flexible exhaust, fabricate a nice P-Clip from a piece of brass and attach it to the undercarriage ply plate so to direct the exhaust better under the aircraft. laser's and acro-wot such good British combinations..love them! regards Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Allen Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 ASP 91FS, ARTF flew wonderfully, next one will be the XL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Allen Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 This is what happens to your stock ARTF Acro Wot if you don't replace the supplied metal U/C bolts with nylon alternatives...! Purpose of my session this afternoon, having finally fitted the cowling and sorted static balancing (30g to tail, 20g to port wing tip) was to settle trims and rates for both normal flight and with landing-flaperons. Patch has been a bit of a mess recently, with a labyrinth of mole tunnels and hills, plus winter mud and the residue of sheep-shit from their Christmas visit. Arrived to find mole-catcher had set first of his traps in southern half of N-S runway. There was still more than enough run into the gentle northerly for both takeoff and a careful landing, but I hadn't factored in the sudden dead-stick half way through the tank. Wasn't then ready - having safely cleared the trap marking-poles on my way in - for the excessive glide-speed without the slowing effect of a turning prop, and floated on fast beyond the north end of the runway. As she came down, at some distance from the flight-box, the undercarriage clipped a mole hill and ripped off in one clean snap, then she belly-landed in the soft grass. The damage is easily repairable (including getting rid of the funny rebate behind the cowling which is unnecessary for IC), and I'll fit new captive-nut and NYLON bolts! Edited By Jonathan M on 19/01/2017 23:09:12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 I m not surprised you ripped out the U/C looking at the state of the field. That's the scale equivalent of trying to land 747 on the Brecon beacons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Its not all that bad... I just ran out of the good bit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 I reckon the guy who made this one had burrowed all the way from Ayer's Rock... Edited By Jonathan M on 20/01/2017 07:40:44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Allen Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 The funny rebate behind the cowling is for two strokers, and I don't see any good bits in that field ;( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_B Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 I'm sorry to see your bent AcroWot Jonathan, but I'm not sure that nylon bolts would have prevented much less damage than what's already been done judging by the size of those mole hills! The possibility of deadstick issues is just one the reasons I've converted to electric power after using ic motors for well over 30 years of model flying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Posted by Bill_B on 20/01/2017 09:52:04: I'm sorry to see your bent AcroWot Jonathan, but I'm not sure that nylon bolts would have prevented much less damage than what's already been done judging by the size of those mole hills! Thanks for the commiserations Bill. I'm working on the theory that a more robust solid ply mounting which bonded to the fuselage nose area with, say, 4mm nylon bolts should result in snapped bolts rather than reconstructive surgery to the airframe. A properly designed 'weakest-link' (with a few spare bolts) should do its job whatever causes excessive shock to the undercarriage... a carelessly-heavy landing or an unfortunate clip of Pen-y-fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Sorry to see that too Jonathan. I have the Kit Balsa not ARTF Acrowot with an OS80(the one in my header!). I have had it about 2 yrs and it is flown a lot. It's a bit heavier than the ARTF but flies very well. The reason I built the kit version is that I could strengthen it properly especially the undercarriage. It's much easier when you have full interior access while in construction. I have seen loads of the ARTFs rip undercarriage. Mine as no problem if I have to put it down in the adjacent ploughed field 😳. By the way I don't believe dead sticks are a good reason to choose electric, I have seen plenty of electric planes having to make forced landings too😊, but that's another discussion. I'm a committed IC fan especially for this model. ( I do enjoy foamies and electric helps occasionally). I like the Acrowot so much I'm considering another for a spare. I'm actually now half way through my Wot4 kit which will be a great winter hack and great fun with its air brakes. If I build another Acrowot I might put them on that too and increase aelieron depth to compensate 😊 Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 20/01/2017 11:47:14 Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 20/01/2017 11:47:39 Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 20/01/2017 11:48:02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Nice plane too Daniel. Rather than flex exhaust etc, I would just turn the exhaust round and point it down running out through bottom of cowl. That's what I m doing in my laser powered wot4 and already do in my laser powered Wots Wot XL. Connecting extra pipeoutside the plane might be a bit messy and cause drag. Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 20/01/2017 11:54:08 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_B Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Posted by Timothy Harris 1 on 20/01/2017 11:43:20: ..... By the way I don't believe dead sticks are a good reason to choose electric, I have seen plenty of electric planes having to make forced landings too😊, but that's another discussion. I'm a committed IC fan especially for this model. Hi Timothy, I would have sent you a private message but your profile isn't public so I'll make a very brief interlude here: There are many other reasons for perhaps choosing electric power in the Acrowot (and other airframes), but eradicating dead sticks was one of my main reasons, not the sole reason. Also, I've been flying various electric powered aircraft for many years now and have yet to experience a deadstick landing. Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Looks like the I.C v Lecky debate is as tricky to eradicate as the moles are Stop making mountains outa molehills John...aka Jasper Carrot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Allen Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 As a matter of interest, if you leccify a standard/artf balsa Acrowot, where do you make the battery hatch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Philbrick Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 This is how I modify the U/C to prevent the problem of ripping the bottom out of the acro wot, wot 4 and any other model with a similar arrangement. I use 6mm bolts and a plywood packer that is also about 6mm thick. The reason for this is so that when the bolts break and the heads come off there is enough thread to be able to get the remainder of the bolts out easily. Also use a small amount of cyno to fix the t nuts in otherwise they will work loose and you will have to remove the tank to get at them. nearly every one in our club has adopted this method as once the undercart are ripped out the tank bay is usually fuel soaked and never glues back with any strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Philbrick Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 This is the way I have modified a crashed acro wot to be able to electrify it. I haven't got any further with it yet as I cannot decide what power set up to use. I have 6s packs available so any ideas would be great. Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_B Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Hi Glen, I posted my electric conversion setup a couple of pages ago, but I've reproduced here for you. Please note the original post mentioned an Eflite Power 60, this was a typo, it should have read 'Power 52'. "For anyone that's thinking of going the electric route, you may find that the supplied battery tray isn't of much use for a 6s set up (5s is recommended in the manual), and that you will most likely need to manufacture your own tray as I did. Also, as I elected to use an Eflite Power 52 the supplied stand offs were too long so I fitted my own adjustable units to achieve the correct spinner clearance . The AUW of my particular Acrowot with a 6s 4000mAh battery is 2.98 Kg (6.5Lbs) and has unlimited vertical performance using a Graupner G-Sonic 13" x 8" prop and an aerobatic flight duration of 5-7 mins, dependant on throttle use." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Thanks for that Glenn I was going to fit 4 or 5mm nylon bolts, but I'll go with your setup and pop into my LMS tomorrow for 6mm with matching captive-nuts. Clever idea the 6mm ply spacer. (My original plan for removing any broken studs was to heat up a parallel shank screwdriver and ram it into the stud fast enough to melt a slot!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Cardona Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Why not using some glass cloth inside and on the undercarriage ply along maybe with some doublers on the fuselage side, it should be plenty strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 Undercarriage area of the fuselage now repaired, strengthened internally and improved with a 6mm spacer according to Glenn's method. Also took the opportunity to fill in the cut-out for 2-stroke exhausts, then re-covered in Profilm black... because I didn't have any yellow to match. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Geezer Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 I did similar to Daniel to an artf Ripmax Wot4, light fibreglass epoxied to the ply floor and a couple of inches up the sides. Irretrievably damaged a succession of alloy and g/f undercarriages, but the fuze remained entirely undamaged.With hindsight if I'd used nylon bolts I wouldn't have even had to buy any replacement U/Cs either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 The new improved Glenn-system proved its worth today, when a dead-stick had me come down in the rough beyond the end of the runway. I was able to remove the stud just by turning it with my finger tips - after the intact bolt was losened and the 6mm spacer removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 Massive discovery today...! I couldn't understand why on previous flights my Acrowot needed 2-3mm of up-elevator trim for normal flight. So, before going up to the field today, I measured the incidence of the wing relative to the tailplane (decalage if you like), and discovered that the wing actually had 1 degree of negative geometric incidence! So I quickly made up a temporary shim, 100mm x 30mm x 4mm aero-ply, which fits under the trailing-edge and is held captive by two holes through which the nylon wing-bolts pass. This creates a positive incidence of about 0.5 degrees, which is how I understand fully-symmetric wings should be set up for traditional (i.e. non-3D) aeros. Model now flies beautifully, with no elevator trim needed at all. But this really begs the question as to why Ripmax supply an ARTF which is so dramatically out?! Mind you, when my LMS originally got the Acrowot in for me, I discovered the tailplane was entirely lacking the elevator halves! Edited By Jonathan M on 11/03/2017 22:03:16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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