Phil 9 Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 Well I have had mine for a few months now and I have to say I love the way it flys. I bought mine as a lower cost alternative to the xl version and I was worried I would miss having a larger model. But my standard size acro wot with a laser 70 is proving to be a very enjoyable model. Now the arft is manufacured to a price point and as it comes in the box it is ok but things can always be improved. I was thinking of buying a new kit and building it up with some improvements building in a tank acess hatch better quality horns and push rods removing the covering before assembly and recovering with somthing better quality is there anything else I should concider? Edited By Phil 9 on 12/04/2017 12:48:17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Allen Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 I think the smaller one flys more excitingly than the XL. That said I'm gonna up the aileron throws and see what happens. Rudder seems less effective on the XL than the standard one too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 well I thought I would re examine the fuel tank in my acro wot in the hope I could lower it. this would be simple I thought as the stock tank flops about if unsupported there should plenty of room but there is not. if you pull the tank out from the fire wall recess it rests on the cut out in former 1 so can not be lowered without cutting out part of the former. As this former is used to attach the wings it can not be modified to a large extent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted April 16, 2017 Share Posted April 16, 2017 I cut a hatch into the tank bay of my acro wot.. You can easily see where the designer took the tank measurement to place former 1. we all know this was an error Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted April 16, 2017 Share Posted April 16, 2017 Interesting that your batts are in the tank bay. Mine would up just forward of the servo tray, and still needed 50g tail lead to balance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted April 16, 2017 Share Posted April 16, 2017 Posted by Jonathan M on 16/04/2017 15:47:57: Interesting that your batts are in the tank bay. Mine would up just forward of the servo tray, and still needed 50g tail lead to balance. it is just the way it worked out. For the most part I used mini servos and the engine is a laser 70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 is it just me or is the engine mount that comes in the IC pack very soft there seems to be a lot of flex on mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 Posted by Phil 9 on 21/04/2017 17:27:52: is it just me or is the engine mount that comes in the IC pack very soft there seems to be a lot of flex on mine yes its just me. turns out the engine mounting bolts were slackening off even with lock nuts. I put a plain nut on first and then a lock nut together with some lock tite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Z Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 Phil, That's my formula- plain nut to mount then nylock to make firm. S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pitts Special Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 This is my first IC model. So do you set the CofG with an empty or full tank? Can you feel the CG move as your tank empties in flight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Posted by Pitts Special on 07/06/2017 17:18:02: This is my first IC model. So do you set the CofG with an empty or full tank? Can you feel the CG move as your tank empties in flight? Balance with the tank empty...only just slightly nose down. When the tank is full it will be more nose heavy at the beginning of the flight( elevator trim might be needed). As the flight progresses the CG will come to the correct point. You might need to adjust the trim again....but nothing too much to notice . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted August 11, 2017 Share Posted August 11, 2017 has anyone experimented with any mixing such as rudder-aileron or aileron differential on this model. Did it offer any benefit? Edited By Phil 9 on 11/08/2017 15:39:20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 In my experience, the AW doesn't need any aileron differential at all. I started with an aileron-rudder mix on a switch as I had when learning on my high-wing trainer, but then realised two things: (1) low-wing aerobatic planes don't seem to suffer adverse yaw to the same degree as high-wing trainer types, and the AW turns perfectly well on aileron and elevator. (2) More importantly, I needed to learn to use the rudder independently anyway so that, for e.g., I could feed in rudder in turns only as necessary, use rudder to fly and take-off/land in crosswinds, perform axial rolls correctly including opposite rudder, etc. The only mix I now play with is slight down flapperons for short landings in low wind conditions, with a very little bit of elevator mix to control things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 PS One important thing to check before doing anything else is the wing-incidence. If your initial flights show a need for consistent up-elevator trim then, assuming correct CG, you might have a manufacturing fault as I did of negative incidence! I solved this -1deg incidence by packing up the TE to produce the correct +0.5deg, and the AW now flies much better as a sports aerobatic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 i wouldn't bother with any mix's..as long as the C/G is near the mark the model is a goodin..knife edge needs a little input from the elevator..but that's it.. ken Anderson...ne...1 ...wot dept. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 I removed the wooden elevator push rod on mine to do some maintenance and the closed loop wires slackened off. obviously the wires were resting on it at some point. now I think I may replace it with a 3mm carbon push rod. will a carbon rod flex to much over that distance? another option would be to mount the servo in the tail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Skilbeck Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 If you can't tighten up the existing closed loop wires, I'd replace them like for like, using the old wires to pull the new ones through if you can. As regards aileron differential, remember if you put some in it will be the wrong way round when inverted........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Berriman Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 I was not satisfied with the wire set up so replaced these with a 1.5 mm piano wire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Z Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 Hi I used carbon on the elevator but 6mm tube for strength. I stayed with closed loop wire on the rudder. S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 I used a snake on the elevator and secured it well at either end and in the middle to eliminate flex, but this involved opening holes in the rear fuselage and then re-covering them. To tighten the slack on the rudder, instead of replacing the whole caboodle, see if you can ease off the crimped brass or aluminium tubes at the servo end and re-crimp (or replace them, plus some thin CA inside) once you've got the right tension in the wires. Or just move the servo forward a few mm's? Assuming your CG was spot on, I wouldn't mount a servo at the tail, unless you want to add lead at the nose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 I got these plastic shapes and screws in my acro wot artf. I cant find any reference to them in the manual. Any ideas what they are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Z Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 Phil I've still got those in a drawer, aeroplane flies nice anyway. Hopefully someone will know what they are for. S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Berriman Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 If I remember they are used inside the canopy for the screw to bite into Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CARPERFECT Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 Yes they glue to the fuzz just behind or in front of the pilots head rest. dry fit to check , thats why they are shaped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 Posted by CARPERFECT on 28/08/2017 10:19:30: Yes they glue to the fuzz just behind or in front of the pilots head rest. dry fit to check , thats why they are shaped that will be it. I already glued my canopy on however Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.