IanN Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 Looks absolutely brilliant - one of your best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ashby - Moderator Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 Very nice Peter, you can't beat a good CAP, they make such a nice change to all the usual semi-scale aerobats. Edited By David Ashby - RCME on 21/10/2012 12:18:10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radge Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 Quite a privelage Peter, thank you for your blog. Now if I can only remember those building tips...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Walters Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 Looks very nice indeed Peter! Lovely scheme too. One day I'll have to have one! Well done! Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oliver Cooper Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 What electric set set up would you suggest? Looks really nice congrats :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 very nice that Peter colour schemes very effective in flight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 If the weight of the model is known then someone will be able to advise on an electric setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 Posted by kc on 10/02/2014 17:37:30: If the weight of the model is known then someone will be able to advise on an electric setup. 67 ounces Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Tinkler Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 Great to see this as a freebie in RCME. I've been flying the 20 since it was in the mag. Just before the biblical flooding a defective Rx battery saw the 20 plough in. Now I can start all over again. P.S. Tell that nice man at Vortex. It came as a surprise when I ordered a canopy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vecchio Austriaco Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 So it has 1.9kg in understandable units More than I thought. I would use a Hacker A30-10XL (1100kV) or a Turnigy 35-48 (900 0r 1000kV) with 3 or better 4 cells. this should move it around quite easily... looking forward to comments. By the way - the electric flight database - last updated 2012??? VA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 14, 2014 Author Share Posted February 14, 2014 Posted by Michael Tinkler on 14/02/2014 15:44:41: Great to see this as a freebie in RCME. I've been flying the 20 since it was in the mag. Just before the biblical flooding a defective Rx battery saw the 20 plough in. Now I can start all over again. P.S. Tell that nice man at Vortex. It came as a surprise when I ordered a canopy Did you mean the 21? Or which 20 did you mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Vinten 1 Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 Ok I have decided to build this one first ! Before the 21 Will keep it to the plan the only thing, it will be electric!! 700watts to 850watts running on 4s with 11x8 prop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Vinten 1 Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 And wil have 70amp esc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Many people consider that 100 watts per pound is quite satisfactory for an aerobatic model, so 400 watts or a little more would be OK on a four pound model for most people. Gary likes a lot more watts per pound! But that means a heavier battery to get a reasonable flight time and therefore a heavier wing loading. However a heavier battery is more useful than a chunk of lead up front so it's all a matter of compromise and opinion.A 400 watt motor and a smallish Lipo will probably need the motor bulkhead moved forward so that the lighter weight Lipo can go right forward & achieve CG without lead ballast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Tinkler Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Peter Of course I meant I had been flying the 21 since it was in the mag. I thoroughly enjoyed it until the battery (broken wire) failure. It was the one time I have willed a model to crash. Once Tx contact was lost it just flew on until eventually she dropped the left wing and arrived. I was relieved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Sunday Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 with that short nose and your chosen setup on 4s you may consider a built up tail end to keep her light. I sorely needed lead up front to keep my oodallaly balanced. that was with a built up tail. mind you my building skills leave a bit to be desired. Also if you are going the electric setup and really want to keep her light you might want to consider litespan to cover with. balsa lock the model, balsa lock the litespan and any overlapping areas and iron on. Hope this helps. Id love to build this one Peter but I'm running out of room here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Peter, I see from the 'Datafile' box at the end of your article of the Mudry CAP 20L (p69), the model has a 53in wingspan. However my trusty ruler indicates that the model has a 50in span. Either the model has been scaled down to fit the plan or it is just a typo in the magazine (more likely). It is a lovely model in any event, I have always liked the Piel Emeraud on which it is based. Do you think an OS 52FS would be too much for it? My engine weighs 130g more than your SC32 so would probably need a servo or two towards the tail to get the C of G in the right place. Keep the designs coming Peter, although you don't seem to need encouragement judging by your output! Regards, Piers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 Yes, it is 50" span. Yes, I did put 53" in the data panel. I get confused easily these days The SC 52 would probably be OK, You do have a throttle! Vertical performance would be even better. Just been going through a lot of photos to illustrate a book. I keep finding models that I can't remember at all. Must go and see where they were published and when! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Vinten 1 Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Ah what book is that then peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 It is on basic modelling for all those who come on the forum and say "I want to build a model. How do I....?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Posted by Peter Miller on 04/03/2014 11:12:55: Just been going through a lot of photos to illustrate a book. I keep finding models that I can't remember at all. Must go and see where they were published and when! Would love to see a blog of the models you have designed through all the years. Should make a nice set of pics from a nice collection of models. Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Peter, if you are trying to identify any of your old designs or indeed get copies of old articles/plans etc. I am sure that only a few words on this forum from you would get the answers you require. Like many modellers I have hoarded magazines going back about 20 years, - sad or what?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 Posted by Piers Bowlan on 05/03/2014 08:04:49: Peter, if you are trying to identify any of your old designs or indeed get copies of old articles/plans etc. I am sure that only a few words on this forum from you would get the answers you require. Like many modellers I have hoarded magazines going back about 20 years, - sad or what?! THanks for the offer. In fact I have copies of every article, plan, kit review and column all in folders. Well over 850 total. I do not have photos of all of them now except in the magazines and I only have copies of the ful size plans. Oh, and going back 20 years is not enough, You have to go back 40 years!! Edited By Peter Miller on 05/03/2014 08:32:34 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Peter, I am just in the process of doing a dry assembly of my CAP 20L wing and wondered if you could help clarify a couple of issues for me. the first is to do with Rib R3 just in board of the aileron. My reading of the plan shows that this has the trailing edge spar running through it i.e. the rib is cut in two and butted up either side of the spar as the picture above shows. I wondered if this is correct or wether the rib should be one piece with the spar butted up against the side of the rib. secondly your pictures show that you didn't have the lower cap strips in place when you built your wing. I wondered if this was deliberate to allow the wing to be built flat on the board as the section is curved on the lower surface between the spar and trailing edge. thanks david Edited By david fillingham 1 on 11/05/2014 19:14:47 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 I see what you mean. IT has been drawn as going through R-3. In fact it should not, it should butt up aginst R-3. THis is show on R-3 becaus R-3 has no cut out for the spar. The dotted lines on R-3 show the part cut out as the aileron root rib. Don't know why the spar is shown as going through R-3 on the wing plan. iT isn't shown that way on my drawing. The capstrips of the aileron spar and aileron leading edge are pinned down on the board together with the leading edge sheet. The lower rib capstrips are not pinned down are not fitted until afterwaRDS. This is because there is slight curvature on the underside of the ribs and this lack of capstrips allows the ribs to be fitted and the curve is accomodated in the space where the capstrips would be. The aileron rib lower capstrips are fitted because the aileron ribs are not curved and the aileron rib have to be supported inplace because the 1/4 sheet aileron trailing edge goes down to the board but we want the ribs as shown in the sectional view shown at the bellcrank location. I hope that this is all clear enough for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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