Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale

[Steve Dunne]

Jon is right, as usual, but it doesn't tell the whole story.
Stalling the top wing first is best for stability, but makes it difficult to perform aerobatic maneouvres that require a stall, e.g. stall turns, flicks, spins. If your biplane needs to be aerobatic, have the top wing a degree or so negative to the bottom, but be careful on landings! Zero-zero decalage is a good compromise between the two.

In my case, my 25-year-old 1/5th scale Svenson Stampe has the top wing 1* positive, the 38 year old Aeromaster has the top wing 1* negative, and the more recent Jungmeister and Christen Eagle are both zero-zero.

All of them are excellent flyers in their own ways - the Stampe is a lovable, stable trundler, and the Aeromaster is a very wick and lively aerobat!

Work out how you want the aircraft to behave, and then set the decalage accordingly.

Steve.

[Jon H]

Yup, true enough Steve. My stampe seems to stall its top wing first. I can feel it in loops and it also nods forward if you get too slow on landing.

Wing sweep also makes a difference as swept wings tend to pitch up at the stall. Something like a pitts has one straight and one swept if i recall so setting -1 on the top wing vs the bottom would make sense. A great deal would depend on the wing section too. 

I think on my next stampe i am going to build some sort of adjustment into the rigging to allow tweaking if i so desire it.

Edited By Jon - Laser Engines on 03/09/2019 15:41:03

[bert baker]

You need more throttle

[Tom Lee 2]

On behalf of the current full size owner of this Stampe G-AYGE would the builder/owner of the model I guess Tony please make contact with me. If you are interested there's a photo opportunity for you with your model and the full size and then a flight in the full size Stampe. How good is that! PM me for contact details. Or if anyone else can put me in contact with Tony, that would be great.

Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 23/09/2019 09:14:53

[Nick Somerville]

Resistance was futile and after 22 years since building my first Stampe (fitted with a Laser engine, 120 or 150 Can't remember) I have just purchased a new Slec Stampe kit. Will be fitting a Laser 180. Been great reading through this thread with so many useful tips so thanks everyone for your posts.

Can I ask for some advice please on which wheels are best suited and also which size/make of fuel tank to fit.

[Jon H]

I think i have 4.5'' wheels on mine. I will check later as i have some model juggling to do.

My tank was a 14oz and came from a YT kit if i recall

[Stuphedd]

I think the last time I contributed to this thread was 24 9 15, and I have not finished it yet ,

BUT the Porter has been sold on and hence I have an engine , DLE, that will allow me to continue with the build .

I am not a fan of fixed incidences , and I do like them to be adjustable to some extent , see the post on the 29 /9/15 to see the mechanism on the top wing support to allow this , Preference on my other bipes has always zero to a tad of negative for the top and zero to plus 3 on the bottom , sedate is not my style , but the flying of the Stampe will need to be a bit of tuning to be sure !!

cheers

[Martin McIntosh]

My Stampe wheels are 4.5" and look right to me.

[Steve Dunne]

Sarik Hobbies do wheels for the DH82a, which seem to be a spot-on match at 4¾"

The hubs can be sanded to remove the DH logo...

About £25.

[cymaz]

For hub covers I used a couple of tins of beer

1. By the cheapest beer you can find, it will be of very thin aluminium. It might also taste awful
2. Cut the bottom of the tin away. The dome inside will face outward and the flange can be screwed into the plastic wheel hub.
3. Recover from hangover.

 

Edited By cymaz on 18/10/2019 17:25:44

[Nick Somerville]

Thanks for the tank and wheel replies fellas. Useful picture too Jon, that going to encourage me to try a sprung UC

[bert baker]

If i tissue and dope my next Stampe and use a small engine

I can then go above 400 foot

Just warming up the naughty steps

[cymaz]

Naughty steps??........what ALL of them ?

[Martin McIntosh]

Mine started life at 6.2kg, covered in `tex. Funny how they put on weight over time. It would take ages with one of these to reach 400ft anyway, and who is going to come along with a calibrated pair of scales and laser range finder?

[SR 71]

I fancy building one of these to go with my Bucker Jungmiester what do you guys recommend as the best engine for it

Tony

[cymaz]

Depends how light you build it. Mine is 8kg and flies well on a 33cc 2t petrol.

[bert baker]

Laser 150-180,, DLE, DA 30 ,Zenoah 38.

Depends on if you like petrol or glow

As your in sunny Cyprus I guess it will be petrol.

 

Edited By bert baker on 24/10/2019 21:19:21

[SR 71]

Actually Bert i no longer live in Cyprus, im in the very wet cold Wirral

The Laser sounds good but Jon has problems there.

Im still building my new hanger so no rush

Thanks for the feedback

[David P Williams]

Any of you Stampe afficionados fancy a project?

[cymaz]

She’s all yours David

If I come home with another Stampe, Mrs C will not be amused  ( having just bought the Glens Cap 232)

Edited By cymaz on 25/10/2019 17:15:52

[bert baker]

Looks nice, a couple of hours work and you could be in for some fun.

Paint them all blue,

I bet you don't know how many brown hand bags they have.

[Nick Somerville]

So I finished fitting out my new workshop, the Slec Stampe kit has been distributed in the under build board drawers.and work has commenced. Given the need to purchase a myriad of accessories/ancillary parts, I took a trip to a barely surviving model shop an hours drive away. Having spent an eye watering amount on just a small bag of items I enquired about Solartex on my way out. So now I know it’s not readily available these days so what’s the alternative? Also if anyone can tell me the total coverage area it would be a great help.

BTW the Slec kit so far has impressed me by the quality of supplied wood and the cnc router cut/laser cutting. A far cry from the original kit.

[cymaz]

 

 

THIS is by far the cheapest. It’s a shiny plastic covering.

Oracover does a fabric covering but the cost is high.

Are you any good at covering with nylon and dope. If so that might be the cheapest method and then spray paint.

As for amounts it’s a case of knowing the width of the roll and then doing some rough maths after measuring over the plan. I covered the wings and fuselage first and then ailerons, elevators, rudder etc with the off-cuts.

Edited By cymaz on 01/11/2019 05:41:59

[SR 71]

I four and a half rolls of solartex left, i think it should just about be enough to cover mine when im ready to build it, is the plan available without the cnc pack as i like to cut my own parts

Tony

[Nick Somerville]

So I measured up the plans and reckon a little over 4 sq metres will do the job. I have discovered that Solarfilm.co.uk are still selling solartex, despite the model shop yesterday saying it was no longer available. so have ordered some.

I did wonder about nylon/silk though, as I have a recently replaced a reserve parachute that I had in my paragliding harness. I had had it for over 14 years so had been advised to replace it. It's a lovely fine weave so I thought it would be worth some trials with dope on a trial frame.