Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale

[bert baker]

[bert baker]

That is a Svenson Stampe,,, the other diferance is the cowl had a removable front section

[bert baker]

[Adrian Hazeldine]

Thanks Cymaz / Bert.

Definitely looks like mine is the Precedent kit as it's got one piece wings top and bottom and a single open cockpit.

The cowl needs replacing but I think they are still available.

[Martin McIntosh]

Go for a Laser 180 glow any day. The 10cc on the box makes me giggle. The prototype may have used one but it was geared. Recently upgraded mine from a 155 to the 180 but only because I wanted to swap engines with another model. My Precedent one was only 6.2kg when built.

[Martin McIntosh]

I used the Tiggy cowl from SLEC. Same thing as far as I could tell.

[bert baker]

Laser 180 are currently in stock it would be a good choice,,, but you will need to get your skates on if you want one

[Nick Santovito]

**LINK**

I had a Saito 120 glo on mine, but at 15 lbs. It wasn't enough.

Here is a link to a vid of the Stamps with a Saito 180 glow, bought used, with a MAS 18/6 on 15 percent nitro.

[Nick Somerville]

So here is a question about aligning the top wing.

After mounting the cabanes and the top plates earlier in the build I noted that they were a bit out of alignment but figured I could deal with this later. Today I made up all the cross braces and also the additional braces going down to the top of the front turtle deck, as per full size and other models featured here, and then clamped up the top plates with a simple jig as per the photo. Today I soldered everything up and fitted the bolts down through the turtle deck. Once everything was set in place I released the jig and checked the top plates. Grrrr, not quite right!, as the top plates seemed to have some memory of their previous positions.

Now with the additional diagonals to the centre of the fus, things are super rigid and although I have yet to trial fit the top wing I reckon it s going to be a bit of a struggle. When I built my first Stampe I didn't bother with any additional cross bracing and this meant the top plates were flexible enough to give some leeway to any minor inaccuracies.

Back to my question...how have others managed with the super rigidity of the additional bracing? Is the flexibility of not having them a benefit? I am beginning to think the flexibility might be kinder to the airframe in a disorderly arrival with the ground.

[Jon H]

Regarding engines be careful if you fit a saito FG30. They run hotter than the pits of hell when cowled and the stampe cowling is less than stellar for airflow. Im not saying it wont work, just be careful.

If you opt for glow then 180 would be my choice as you can throw a nice big prop and just float about. You can also enter loops at scale speed and use the power to pull you round. With a smaller engine you have to gain excess speed and then throw it round the loop and that sort of ruins the look a bit.

The cross bracing struts on my model fail with alarming regularity and the wing gets a bit wobbly without them. I dont think it will fall off, but it can yaw quite a bit so i tend to replace them.

[cymaz]

If you’re worried, bind the cross bracing then solder well. Shouldn’t be a problem.

[Nick Santovito]

I guess I was lucky, my cabane struts came out straight. I didn't line up the cross-bracing until I had lined up the bottom and top wings. Then I wrapped the cross-bracing to the struts with heavy copper wire and silver soldered it. even with all that I still have to resolder some of the joints occasionally.

I wish they made a big wheel collar with four lugs 2 clamp all the struts together instead of soldering

[bert baker]

I’ve fitted top and bottom wings and set the cabaines when happy with their alignment fitted bracing into position

[Nick Somerville]

The cross bracing struts on my model fail with alarming regularity and the wing gets a bit wobbly without them.

Where do they fail? I used piano wire bent as per the other cabane cross braces, bound and soldered, and at the deck I have soldered bespoke brass eyelets with 4m bolts through. Hen e

my concern of lack of flex

[Jon H]

There are various points of failure on mine but i think its because the grade of wire used was too brittle and bending it before soldering has not helped. I replaced some of the cross braces with softer wire and they are doing fine at the moment.

When i build another one of these i will bin this method of cabane strut and instead make struts that i can bolt on/off and have them adjustable to get incidences and things right. It might be more complicated in some respects but it will also save a bunch of hassle when it comes to rigging and covering

[bert baker]

Eventually it’s all going to go wonky and you’ll have so much fun flying it you won’t care

[Adrian Hazeldine]

Thanks for all the tips - I'll get it weighed when I get a minute and have a proper think about engine options...

I'd seen this replacement cowl at Slec www.slecuk.com/SLEC-kits/14-scale-sv4b-stampe-grp-cowl

[cymaz]

It’s a good option

[Nick Somerville]

Thanks to all the UC posts on this thread I have almost completed my sprung version. I used 169mm oleos from Hobbyking (took an age for them to deliver) and as they were a tad long I removed 9mm from the piston rods. To make the connection to the alloy brackets I soldered a 5m bolt into a one of the screw holes in a brass 16amp connector and cut the head off and removed half of the connector. The fore strut was similarly dealt with but using a smaller brass connector bolted to the fus. Everything else made from the cut up original uc piano wire with brass tube ends. A bit of brass strip for the centre link and main leg brackets.

I haven’t forgotten the rear strut, which I will fit once I have finalised the wing seating.

not too far off the covering stage once the front end has been fuel proofed. Need to start thinking about rigging wires. I didn’t bother on my first stamp but guess they will improve the look no end. Any advice on what wire to use and where all the attachment points are.. I do have a reel of 100lb black plastic coated trace wire, which I bought for the rudder Closed loop... any good?

[cymaz]

I always use trace wire from a tackle shop. The rear bracing strut from the crucifix to the te of the wing nicely braces the legs.

[Bruce Collinson]

Rather an impostor here, but just to say that sea fishing tackle shops are a good source of beefy pull pull wire, crimps, swivels (enable one end of aforesaid to be adjusted without kinking), small split rings to attach swivels to wire etc. Plastic coated 50 lb trace wire is strong enough to be confident, flexible enough to accommodate bends and to loop fairly tightly, and the plastic coating gives the crimps something to bite into without prejudicing the stranded wire core. It does however chafe if put through a tight exit radius.

BTC

[Nick Somerville]

Finally a quiet dry day here so able to get outside and fettle away for the first fitting of both wings. Not quite true, but nothing a little more fettling and brute force won't cure. UC removed for painting. I have a film iron on order so once that arrives I can start covering the flying surfaces.

[cymaz]

Great job...love the cowl

[Nick Somerville]

Would someone please explain how the rigging wire spreader rods are made and fitted at the mid point where they cross over. Thanks in anticipation.

[bert baker]

I’ve not fitted them to my rigging,

But you could probably just rig the plane and use cotton thread to secure them and dope over the cotton 

Edited By bert baker on 07/01/2020 20:53:08