Pete B Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 Sorry, Scott, I've just been through them all again and there are still no specific instructions for the V2 version under the files tab - the 'official' manual only relates to the V1 and there are a motley selection of files uploaded by contributors, only one of which shows just a labelled picture of the V2 without any explanation of how to use the device. Given that the V2 is effectively a completely different product, I'd have thought Orange would have bothered to produce an updated manual. I've found all I need to know by scouring the forums and using my initiative - a quality Orange should realise not all customers possess..... Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott cuppello Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 There is a file marked "V2 Manual" it covers both versions, and should give you enough information to set this unit up, it certainly worked for me. Downloadable instructions are common for e-tailers, it keeps costs down and offers a constant source for upgrades/revisions....things are changing, many people will learn how to set up planes, electronics, etc, via You-Tube, Forums, etc, thousands of our customers don't seem to have an issue with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mordy Div Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Hi all, sorry for the long posting, I have allot of info to advise and I have cut back as much as possible. I was very dissatisfied with my installation of the V2 Stabiliser in my model and was also finding it difficult to eliminate causes of problems leading to the unsatisfactory and potentially dangerous and unpredictable behaviour i was achieving with the stabiliser, i.e. sudden jerky flight surface movements, interaction of flight surfaces when others were command to move, I would move aileron and the rudder and elevator would suddenly jerk back and forth (gyro lowest gain) see opening post by Pete B I decided to build a test rig to make it easier to run some test as it was awkward whilst all the gear was mounted in the plane, and to eliminate the model itself. After testing with 3 different receivers and 2 different transmitters and in various environments, the device still exhibits unpredictable, uncommanded or initiated flight controls movements (disregarding the gyro applied corrections which are consider initiated movements). I have tried powering up the V2 stab upside down, backwards, sideways etc with gyro on and off. (gyro on and off using the AUX channel) I have tried amongst other things the AUX channel plugged into the gear channel, a fully proportional channel and a 3 position switch channel, I have tried adjusting end points and throws on the different channel setups with interesting results. I noticed while changing the servo travel figures in the TX interesting spikes and movements through the servos. As you can see on the pictures I hot glued some skewers on the horns to better notice movements. I decided to try putting a ferrite ring on the AUX channel lead (pic) there was a noticeable reduction in servo jumping and jerking but the movements are still apparent with the test bed just sitting still on the bench gyro on (i am aware that in flight there will be a constant signal activity from the gyro due to the nature of the flight) these jerky jumpy movements are apparent even with the stabiliser de-activated through the AUX selection and the test bed sitting still on the bench and also with the AUX dip switch set to gyro and AUX lead removed altogether. It is the sudden uncommanded movements that and jerky movements that really worry me, I believe it is unsafe to fly a model exhibiting this behaviour, as previous messages and other forums indicate the results of. From my tests I am convinced there is electrical noise getting into the V2 Stabiliser, I have seen it on oscilloscope and through the servo movements, and even noticed it on the ESC LED's for throttle movement (castle ESC) BTW I tried powering the device with linear and switched BEC's, and good 'ol nimh, the only thing that has improved the performance so far is the Ferrite ring. What perplexes me, is that not every one is noticing these behaviours etc. as Scott says thousands of his customers don't have issues, maybe they haven't noticed the movements or there is enough slop in the system they don't show up. I have ordered a few more rings to try and I have a few more experiments to report back on but at this stage I would be very reluctant to try it in flight. Thanks all again and sorry for such a posting. Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 23/02/2013 16:00:52 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted February 23, 2013 Author Share Posted February 23, 2013 No need to apologise, MD, that's a very informative post and you've gone to a lot of trouble, I can see. Some interesting points there which need to be given some thought. Not being skilled in electronics, I can't really contribute anything useful and I must admit I've put mine to one side for the moment - too many other things going on! Look forward to seeing the results of your further research. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barrie Dav 2 Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 Lots of useful stuff from you as usual Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Hmmm I have a few gyros but I have 2 of the HK Orange V2s. I had a bit of jitter on one with rudder but it seems to have righted itself. I worked the pot adjust several times to make sure it was seating. The other one I use in my T28 Trojan and it performs really well. I just use HK servos mixed with JR and HXT 900s. I also have a JR Gyro and an EagleTree Guardian in other planes but I love the simplicity of the V2s. It is easy to set the gain too high but once set they are great. Just my experience with them.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mordy Div Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 Still havent test flown the gyro, been way too hot down here, 33' plus for the last few sundays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 Done some testing on the V2 finally myself. (I have 2) You MUST have a good battery or you can get the jitters. I noticed this on 2 occasions and fixed the jitters by replacing with a fully charged battery. Also, It does not work very well or for long on a 4.8 NiMh pack at all. Secondly. I hadn't been using the Aux to turn it on /off, but as soon as I decided to use that feature the jitters were back with a vengeance. You don't even need to have Aux turned on to get the jitters. I found as soon as I plugged a wire into the auxilliary port it jittered. Remove the plug and it is fine. I wonder if this is why a lot of folk don't experience the jitter problem, because maybe they do not utilize the on/off feature due to Radio/receivers that are only 4 channel or less. Could I be correct in this assumption? Edited By Panther on 11/03/2013 11:22:57 Edited By Panther on 11/03/2013 11:35:31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Olsen 1 Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 If the jitter is due to noise on the supply line then it will vary a lot with the characteristics of the particular installation, eg one BEC might be worse than another, even of the same type. Different types of batteries may vary, and so on. A capacitor close to the unit might help. I just found something strange with the Fyetech unit. It experienced a rapid descent from a great height recently, the probable cause being a loss of power to the entire receiver and servo set although it was kind of hard to be sure which bits broke first afterwards. Anyway I'm setting the unit up in the replacement plane, and couldn't get the initialisation process to work right. The red LED kept flashing no matter what I did. Finally I decided to see how it behaved with the wings put on and the aileron servos connected. This fixed the flashing. Seems odd to me since there is no feedback from the servos to the gyro unit, so how did it know they were not there? Anyway, the lesson from that is don't try to initialise a Fyetech unit without all the servos connected! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Interesting thread. I bought one of the Oryx three axis stabilisers and fitted it to my Miles Magister. Set everything just over the 50% mark so not too sensitive. Had no problems at all. Only noticeable affect was that I did not need rudder to hold the model straight on take off. Wound the aileron gain up to maximum. Only difference was a slight oscillation or rocking movement throughout the flight.. Landed and returned to previous setting. More flights with no trouble. I had simply plugged all the three constrls into the stabiliser and the servos to it as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eamonn Fahey Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Launched today on the Global site - *** OrangeRX RX3S 3-Axis Flight Stabilizer V3 w/DSM2 Compatible 6CH 2.4Ghz Receiver *** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericrw Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 I have been fitting the Version 2 flight stabilizer. Every thing is working OK but though I've got the Aux lead from the stabilizer into the flap socket on the receiver, it does not switch off when the flap switch is activated/deactivated. Any suggestions as to why this is happening;gratefully received. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Posted by Eamonn Fahey on 21/03/2013 11:28:22: Launched today on the Global site - *** OrangeRX RX3S 3-Axis Flight Stabilizer V3 w/DSM2 Compatible 6CH 2.4Ghz Receiver *** LOL I wonder if they stopped the jittering. I think it would be wise not to rush in to this one after the last one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Posted by ericrw on 21/03/2013 12:21:18: I have been fitting the Version 2 flight stabilizer. Every thing is working OK but though I've got the Aux lead from the stabilizer into the flap socket on the receiver, it does not switch off when the flap switch is activated/deactivated. Any suggestions as to why this is happening;gratefully received. Have you moved the gyro switch to on to activate it? Is your transmitter Flap channel set to the correct end-points? Edited By Panther on 21/03/2013 12:33:33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mordy Div Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Posted by ericrw on 21/03/2013 12:21:18: I have been fitting the Version 2 flight stabilizer. Every thing is working OK but though I've got the Aux lead from the stabilizer into the flap socket on the receiver, it does not switch off when the flap switch is activated/deactivated. Any suggestions as to why this is happening;gratefully received. If you are using a 2 position switch, check the travel at the position you want to be off, go to the travel adjust setting in your tx and put the switch in the off position and then keep increasing the travel until you see/hear the gyro go "off" it never really goes off, just stops correcting. Lets us know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericrw Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Mordy & Panther. I've carried out yor suggestions and I tried from 0 to 129, that is the min & max on my flap adj channel on my Spectrum Dx6i but to no avail !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Oh boy, I don't know then. Maybe try reversing your flap switch? Sorry, I am out of ideas. Do you know anyone else with one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericrw Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 No ! I don't know of anyone else locally with one. I've decided to contact Hobbyking, to see if they can help. I don't like the idea of not being able to switch off the stabilizer. Thanks anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mordy Div Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 Okay good luck, could be a faulty unit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericrw Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 Problem resolved, thanks to Scott Cupello of HK. Works in Gear channel but not in Flaps as I would have liked !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 We live and learn. Thanks for posting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 As you probably read earlier in the thread, my first efforts with the V2 were halted prematurely when the Cub took an unexpected dive. The Cub's now been repaired for some weeks, although the patched-up cowl still needs its yellow coat, but, rather than put it in peril once again, I thought I'd move the V2 into something I'd feel less miffed about losing....... The unfortunate candidate is my ST Models Fox, a dog of a model, probably the worst £100's worth I've spent on this hobby...... It might just be me but the only thing it does well, IMHO, is skip nicely along the ground on its landing wheel, which works very well.....but each to their own, I suppose..... It doesn't thermal well (not that I should really expect it to), is very twitchy and prone to tip-stalling and runs out of energy all too quickly once the power is off - a nicely circular loop seems beyond its capabilities - so, all in all, a fairly unsatisfactory flying experience. I know it goes where it is pointed and should be aerobatic but I've not found it to be particularly so. Perhaps it flies better with power on and some ballast? Anyway, back to the V2. The problem in the Cub had been the persistent jittering of the servos and no amount of adjustment/servo-swapping/trying another V2 - was able to solve it, so I can't offer any solution to that particular issue, I'm afraid. I fitted the V2 into the Fox today, which has the same Orange 6-ch Rx as fitted to the Cub, and upon powering it up, lo and behold, all was sweetness and light. No servo jitters, everything worked in the correct sense once I'd done a bit of servo-reversing and dip switch adjustment and the Aux on-off worked without any EPA adjustment A bit of adjustment to set the gains to a moderate response and it was out for a test flight. Not to put too fine a point on it, the model has been mildly transformed. The twitchiness has gone, the tip-stall tendency seems to have been reduced (by the pitch control?) and it was almost a pleasure to fly.... It's still a dog, though....and I'll keep it as a sacrificial lamb as a flying test-bed..... Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Pete. I see some clever fellow has learned that the V2 can be reprogrammed. On doing so the original program is lost and cannot be restored, however I don't consider that to be a downside. The mods actually give you forward and reverse on the gain pots so the dip switches don't have to be switched to reverse the servos, and the switches are used for other tasks making the whole gyro a totally new entity in itself. From all accounts it is a very successful mod but sadly the reprogramming is beyond my comprehension. I can't remember which site I saw this on now but I am sure a search would find it. I myself am now using the Eagle A3 Pro and am getting another one of them or the JCX-M6 which is similar but a little more refined. Very pleased with the A3 Pro so far as it has 3D as well and still only around $30 mark. Loved your story. Cheers Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 Hi Doug, thanks for that - you just can't take this hobby too seriously sometimes.... Contrary to comments on the RCG thread, I haven't found the gain pots on the V2 to be particularly linear - they must have been truly awful on the V1 - so the thought of making them cover both forward and reverse is quite surprising. I'm a simple man too, so all this re-programming is way, way above my head but it may be this thread that contains that information you mention. I have a couple of the Eagle A3 Pro's, one of which is in my Phoenix Rainbow. Certainly a better product and I found it for the same price on Ebay. I've found that unless the model is perfectly trimmed mechanically and you have NO trim or sub-trim added, the HH mode can produce some interesting responses. Once set up, though, setting the Rainbow in a gentle climb, switching HH on, and watching it continue steadily climbing on the same course, all hands-off, is quite uncanny.... Pete Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 02/05/2013 10:10:26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Thanks Pete, Yes, that is the thread. I lost track of it but did think of messaging him to see if he was interested in doing my two v2s for me. Not sure it is worth the trouble though when weighed up with the cost of new A3s. Much better to invest in something that works well.... I did mean to say that one of my V2s is much smoother (less jittery) than the other. There seems to be no consistency in the manufacture. Doug Edited By Panther on 02/05/2013 10:30:00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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