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How. to keep a 4 stroke silencer secure


Russ P
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I've had this problem Russ and if anyone comes up with a total solution I'd be pleased to hear about it. One thing that does help is to tighten it up when its hot rather than cold. I find that lasts for a month or so - then you have to do it again!

TBH I've tried most of the selants - they don't seem to work for me. Most epoxies are only good to about 250C which is below the manifold temperature of the average 4 stroke.

BEB

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hello russ from the ne...1 tech dept../notteeth 2 ...... take the exhaust off clean it with a wire brush and do the same with the head.....then ensure that it is dry....put it back together with a generous coat of clear silicone(aquarium type) is what i use.........when the flange is nipped up...run the rest around the nut and it should seal the joint and hold it in place....and should you need to break the joint-its easy to 'pick off' etc....i've used this method on 2/4st's for years with no problem's.........

ken anderson ne..1 ..... tech dept....

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I'm with Percy on this one. Silencers coming loose just haven't ever been a problem on any of my 4 strokes - but I do always balance my props and avoid cheap and nasty spinners.

I always screw the header pipe into the head until the thread botttoms - then unscrew (less than a turn) to align it with the desired angle so that the maximum number of threads are in use and do the locknut up as tight as possible with a correctly fitting spanner (not an adjustable).

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Well, I had an OS91FS, I always balance my props, for this I balanced the spinner as well. Both prop and spinner where "top end" components. The spinner for example being a Tru-Turn job I imported from the States.

I tried everything with that engine. Sillicone, epoxy, lock nuts, JB weld, exhaust cement, copperbond; I tried different exhaust geometries from straight out the box standard to complex arrangements using flexipipes or knuckles - you name it I tried it. In my oopnion the vibration was far from excessive - less than on most engines - but could I keep an exhaust on that engine for more than half a dozen flights? Could I heck! I tried a new header pipe, I examined the outlet threads with a magifiying glass - all looked well. But if I just installed the prop it would come off after 5 minutes. If I installed hot - as I said I might get half a dozen or so flights before it came off.

I've never had this problem - certainly not to this degree - with other engines. But it can happen and if it hasn't happened to you, I can only say that I'd add a "yet" to the end of your sentence!

BEB

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I always add a few layers of PTFE tape (the sort used by plumbers) to the manifold thread before screwing the manifold into the head (right in as Martin Harris sez...thumbs up) & fitting the silencer. Use a correctly fitting spanner to nip them up.....job done!!

I've never had one come loose......yet!! (OK.... BEB?? teeth 2)

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Posted by Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 07/09/2013 11:25:25:

I always add a few layers of PTFE tape (the sort used by plumbers) to the manifold thread before screwing the manifold into the head (right in as Martin Harris sez...thumbs up) & fitting the silencer. Use a correctly fitting spanner to nip them up.....job done!!

I've never had one come loose......yet!! (OK.... BEB?? teeth 2)

Something to be wary of when using thread tape. Don't use too much or you can/will crack the head or silencer!

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It could be just an out of balance engine . I have seen it in the past ,two identical engines but one will vibrate really bad. I have two YS 140 and one is as smooth as can be and the other vibrates quite a lot. It hasn't shaken the exhaust off yet bit is still noticably more shaky than the other. I dont use any sealer ,tape or stuff on the exhaust. I just insert the header as far as it will go , screw back to align then tighten. Run engine up to temp and re-tighten while hot, as said previously ,using a good quality spanner .

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