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The Dawn Flyer's Club House


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Here is the prop I am using and you can just see the motor behind the grill.

DF Prop

I also checked my power records. Peak static pull I measured on this one is 31A, so would definitely stress a 25A ESC if flown wide open for too long. Best to stay on the safe side as BEB says and go for the 30-35A ESC.

Andrew

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Any offer has to start sometime kc - and as a result there will always be those who bought before the offer! The only way to prevent that would be not to make the offer at all - would that be better?

I have no connection with MHS - but I actually think its quite a good thing that with the Mass Build less than 4 weeks into its year that they are offering plans of at least one of the models at special price. But then I am one who tends to see the glass as half full - rather than half empty! wink 2

BEB

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Just for the record, I bought my electric set up from George Worley, better known as 4-max.

a 2837 1120 kv 310watt outrunner and mounting cage.

45 amp esc unit

a Jfx 12x5 wooden prop.

and a power meter.

The esc unit was the most expensive single item but I diliberately over rated it.

I am still awaiting the wood pack and the laser cut pack. BUT I have started with a laminated rim rudder in an attempt to get the tail weight down and the crash strength up. As I have the wood stripper going I shall make up the wing tips, 3 layers 1mm balsa. It is easier to bend than 3mm square section. I have some 6mm balsa in stock so I can remodel the nose to extend it by 20 mm. The idea is to give more lee way for balancing.

The J21 is also being planked at the same time.

regards

JohnM

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Hi All,

Have dug out my Dawn Flyer plan and have decided to have a go, I've looked on the myhobbystore website but can't seem to see , unless I'm being particularly stupid, the exact contents for a CNC woodpack. Does anybody know which components it contains.

Many Thanks

John

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As the bulkhead is made from Liteply ( 2 layers it seems ) then probably screws would not grip well especially after removing them a couple of times. If it were 6mm birch ply I suppose screws would work OK but captive nuts would be better.
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Hi everyone. I ordered the CNC pack before 18th Jan, the plans arrived a couple of weeks ago, but still no date for the balsa and CNC packs. I have been building the tail feathers using laminated 1mm X 6mm strip as per the Hawker cygnet plans. The advantage of a non scale model is that you can alter some of the detail without upsetting the scale appearance. I have been practicing the lamination technique ready for the cygnet. It will also give a slightly lighter tail and help with balance of the model. I have also redrawn the fuselage sides to add 20mm into the nose. I can now start cutting the fuselage sides before the CNC and wood pack arrive.

Regards

JohnM

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Hi Kevin, sides are included in the CNC pack, but if he wants to increase the nose - length he does the right thing!

John: the radius for the tail laminations is quite small - I am looking forward how you tackle that. I had (and have) my difficulties with the Cygnet - either the strips break (yes, I have treated them with all kind of tricks, including ammoniac) or the glue doesn't glue properly (used PVA, but as the strips are wet it takes forever to dry)

VA

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Hi Kevin and Vecchio, The laminations are from 1mm X 6mm balsa and there are six of them. I made a former from 6mm depron the outside is 6mm smaller than the shape on the plan. The balsa is soaked in water for about 20 minutes. I use aliphatic glue applied with a fine nozzle dispenser ad pin into the building board with lots of pins. Remember to cover both the board and former with cling film. after the final strip is in place the straight parts of the laminations are clamped with depron sheet. the whole is then left to dry. The idea works and the final piece is stiff and seems to be OK. When I get the model bits out again (in about a week) I will take some photos and try to put them on here.

Lengthening the fuselage idea came from builders saying that large weights are needed to balance the model and is aimed at increasing the effect of the battery weight. Yes the sides are in the CNC pack but I have not yet been given a dispatch date for that bit of the kit. Starting the fuselage and tail feathers means that progress can be made before all the bits are to hand.

JohnM

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Hi,

I have tried to get a delivery date for the CNC pack but to no avail, so have decided to use up as much material as I have in stock. I'll try to follow the plan as much as possible but I may have to compromise a tad.

I'll post my first build log pics over the weekend as there's not much flying to be had here in the southwest at the moment.

Regards

John

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Hi John,

The lack of CNC pack is why I am pursuing the route of building the tail feathers and undercarriage first. Then I can do the wings when the boring to cut out parts are done for me.

We may both need to re-read BEB's build blog as there are some tips about non fitting parts and work arounds in it.

Regards

JohnM

ps people will confuse the two of us!

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Hi John,

I'm glad I opted out of the CNC pack as I think I've got my motor and speed controller for free, look forward to your build.

I decided to blog my build log , if that's the right terminology, as I've learnt so much from seeing what other people do.

Providing you don't make the same big mistake as I did on my fuselage we won't get confused,

Regards

John

Vecchio

Good question, it seems a fairly popular build. I'll have a look at the forum topics.

Regards

John

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Well having received my replacement wood and CNC pack and looking through the blogs and replies to my questions it's finally time to start my build.

i have constructed my building surface and laid out the first page of the plan, it's covered ready for me to start. I've collected an assortment of tools to start the build with, thanks to BEB and co for their comprehensive build blogs to point me in the right direction.

So I made a start I have managed to construct the rudder and shaped it, not quite as expertly as I have seen in the blogs but I am pleased with my first attempt. Also completed the upper part of the rear end very pleased with how this turned out.

Also have started the construction of the main fus with the triangular doublers and the longerons in place. Have tonight glued F2 into place on one side of the fus.

I have a question regarding the spacing of F1 however and that is how do you work out how far back it should be. I have my motor and will fix this to f1 tomorrow, but then how do you work out its position. My trainer was IC and as such had predefined mounting points so nothing for me to work out.

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