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1/8th scale PSS Depron Buccaneer


Monz
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Well, after reading and re-reading the various Depron build threads on here I'm going to give it a bash! Thanks Daz and the two Roys

I'm going to build it much like Roy did his from the three view as that's how I build my FF jets, but obviously beefed up in all the right places for slope flying. I'm also going to glass it in that 18g cloth.

Being as I'm from SA and we were the only other country to fly the Bucc I'll be doing it in a SAAF scheme **LINK**

You guys will have to bear with me as I ask lots of questions

Three channel
94" long
64" span
E374 section

Time to print out the three view and spend the next few days gluing together LOTS of A4 pages lol

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Hi Monique, you're going to give the buccaneer a go?? - FANTASTIC!. That's going to be one HUGE model!

What method of propulsion are you intending to use? (Just read the title.......duh!- forget my first question lol) Take great care when stitching your A4's together. Small discrepancies on the odd panel here and there can cause big issues later on in your build. I wish you all the very best in your build and look forward to helping wherever possible.

regards Roy

 

Edited By Electriflier on 11/11/2013 22:36:35

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Hi Roy, yeah, after reading your thread and seeing your fly

It's going to be a glider for the slope, so no propulsion!

I'm going to split the three view up into manageable sizes with crop marks for alignment so should be ok. As much as I'd love to see it all as one or two huge sheets, that'll cost a fortune at Staples! More than the Depron to build the thing!

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Will be watching this one closely Monique! - we have been talking about a PSS Bucc for the slope for sometime but as yet have not put pen to paper with other ongoing projects in the way - this is a good size for the model I just hope you generate a sufficiently high wing loading with your construction method to give this the energy it needs on the slope - do you have a feel for an AUW estimate in this material??

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Posted by Phil Cooke on 12/11/2013 21:51:57:

Will be watching this one closely Monique! - we have been talking about a PSS Bucc for the slope for sometime but as yet have not put pen to paper with other ongoing projects in the way - this is a good size for the model I just hope you generate a sufficiently high wing loading with your construction method to give this the energy it needs on the slope - do you have a feel for an AUW estimate in this material??

Yeah I read that Phil, also been following your A-10 build and loved the MB339, I'll be doing a MB326 after this I think. Having not used this material before, I'm going to guess at about a 5kg flying weight, with provision to add ballast for heavier winds. But we'll see how it goes at this size and the fact that I'm glassing it too. I was toying with the Eppler 374 section, but am thinking about the RG14 as used on your 339. What do you think? I want penetration, but not too slippery either.

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Posted by Depron Daz 393 on 12/11/2013 21:51:18:

Wow that is going to be big! Looking forward to this one Monique.

Remember, build it to fly, not to crash. Keep it simple, keep it light. I don't know about Roy H (Electriflier) but I'm glad that I've helped to inspire others to try this method of building.

Daz

Yeah, I'm going to build it the same as I build my FF jets, flat plate, split spine and quarter formers. Just the skinning with 3mm will be new to me. I'll be adding some 'slope strength' too, but that will be in critical areas, so the weight penalty will be negligible.

Just keep building your Depron models so that people like me can stumble across them on Google

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Posted by Depron Daz 393 on 12/11/2013 22:08:37:

5KG? Are you using concrete to glue the depron together? surprise

4lb is 2kg or so, I think that's too light for slope flying. It'll have no penetration and just be blown back! Maybe double that and I'll have a good light lift model Remember, this doesn't have a motor to push it through the weather. Roy's Bucc was 5.5lb and about 15% smaller too.

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I found this thread while googling UHU Por : **LINK** Check the first post. Anyone tried this on Depron? I know the 'universal' eats the white packaging foam, but will it eat the yellowish foam found in insulation boards? Or should I just stick to getting the PU from Toolstation?

Edited By Monique Lyons on 12/11/2013 22:54:49

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UHU POR is what we use Monique. I only use PU to stick wood to foam. PU becomes heavy if used too much. The intakes on the Valiant is yellow insulating foam, and they're stuck on with UHU POR. Remember that it is a contact adhesive, so apply to one surface, push the other surface to it so that there is a trace on both parts, remove the piece and let it dry for a few minutes, and then reapply, and it will stick. If you use it wet it takes a lot longer to dry as the foam insulates the joint.

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Hi Monz,
To answer your question of the other evening:-
mon.jpg
Rather basic I know but it worked. The 12mm Depron horizontal tail (2x6mm laminated) was cut out to a depth of 6mm to the shape of the top of the vertical stab. Bear in mind also that the vertical stab had a 6mm carbon tube top to bottom. I simply glued with 30 min epoxy resin whilst alignment was kept with clamps and pins. (really technical stuff) Plenty strong enough I assure you, especially once the blue foam fairing had been added. There's no 'play' in the horizontal stab, in fact, you can pick the whole model up by the tail without fear of the bond breaking.
CG Question.......
A little more difficult to answer as I literally had to first, guess then work from there. It transpires though that the Centre Of Gravity on my Buccaneer is 113mm back from the tip of the root wing rib and meant me having to add a heck of a lot of nose weight. So, those measurements scaled up should give you at least a 'ballpark' figure from which to start.
I note also the discussions about the need for ballast in some of the PSS models, especially yours being that it is being made from Depron. Obviously, it sort of goes against the grain with us guys that are trying to build as light as possible so that we can power reasonably large jet-like models around the sky. Every spare piece of depron is removed in an attempt to keep it light. You on the other hand are in the very enviable position of not really having to worry too much about coring out Depron. You can build a really 'heavy' depron model that might come in at a few ounces heavier than mine lol. Anyhow, back to the point. I was thinking about the drop tanks which hang on or around CG. drop1.jpg
drop3.jpgThe ones on my model are removable. If a similar method was employed in your build, couldn't you build various weight drop tanks that you could change as conditions dictated? Low lift conditions - lighter drop tanks! - just a thought.
Also, the fact that you do not need propulsion, you will be able to follow more closely, the correct lines of the tail section where I had to cheat a little to ensure I achieved 0 deg thrust on the motor. My model would definately be classed as having 'obvious deviations' in the world of PSS I think.
I hope the build goes well for you and if I can be of any further assistance, just shout.
Regards

Roy

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Thanks for the reply Roy. I didn't realise your stab attachment was that easy.

I've had a long think about the tanks, and I think I'll omit them for the slope. Good idea though using them for changeable ballast, but they're just one more thing to get ripped off while missing the soft piece of mountain on landing So I'll just make a hatch on the CG that I can add some weight in if needed.

Good point on the coring, phew, saves me making LOTS of little holes on this monster! And it is, the fus side view is all glued together now, trying to move about 8' of paper is bit of a challenge

Depron ordered which should arrive tomorrow, then I'll see about making a start cutting some bits out.

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The problem with enlarging a small three view to this size is the pixellation and I always find that fus cross sections aren't symmetrical. So I draw around the outside of one half and cut it out, then fold it in half and use that to draw the other side and voila, symmetrical formers.

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Hi Monz,
Hey, you've started!

You probably noticed that there's quite a large gap between a couple of the fuselage formers on the 3 view. You will need to create an additional former to fit here. If you wish, I think I have that such former saved on my PC at home if you want to save yourself some hassle - let me know?
Also, I'd advise you early in your build (because weight is not an issue for this build) to add as many formers as possible. As an example, between the rear end of the vertical nose spline and the tip, I'd recommend around 6 formers. It'll make life sooooo much easier for you when it comes around to skinning the model.
Go for it - good luck!
Roy

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