reg shaw Posted January 3, 2014 Author Share Posted January 3, 2014 Once the spar capping was on the hinges could be sorted. Cut and folded from 1mm steel sheet. I made them originally in .5mm but they seemed a bit on the light side for such a big surface. The rudder is 26" tall and 23" chord. At the other end of the fuselage, all of 4 ft away, I drew up the plans for the dummy engine, old style with paper and everything, then set about making the main engine block in 1mm steel. This might sound a bit on the strong side but considering this block will not only be the Zenoah engine mount, but a strut to the top of it holds the main wing pylon in position, so it needs to be pretty sturdy. This dummy is planned to be held in place using the four bolt fixing of the full size Carden Ford engine. I'll get some pics later. Ian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 A fascinating project Ian. I love the way you are just scaling the same construction methods. The original had a bit of a, er shall we say, "reputation" flying wise - envisaging any problems? Or just planning on wearing the bicycle clips for the maiden! BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Itsgoingin Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 With a few more detentions at school Ian will catch up. Ant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Jones Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 Oh my god what a fantastic build , I can not wait to see it fly . Cheers for sharing Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 My best mate, Michael Harker, who held a private pilot's licence, took up aeromodelling a year or so before he died of leukemia in 2002. I urged him to build a conventional trainer but that was not Michael, it had to be a Flying Flea! He died before he completed it. I've got most of the bits upstairs in the loft. One day I'll finish it off. Last October I went to SAM 35's meeting at Cocklebarrow. I was standing on the flight line next to a chap flying an electric powered Flying Flea, beautifully finished in white with red trim. He must have been impressed by my flying because the engine on my Super 60 cut and I managed to land the model on the patch. Once I'd retrieved my model he gave me a go with his. Knowing its reputation I only flew gentle horizontal figures of eight but it went where I put it. Impressed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Jones Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 Boy it still amazes me just how many people assume that Flying fleas are just accidents waiting to happen . The fact is the design was to make the simplest and easiest plane to fly . And that is just what they are , they practically fly themselves . In fact i have a Free flight Flying Flea that does just that , from taking off and landing by it`s self . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reg shaw Posted January 4, 2014 Author Share Posted January 4, 2014 Too true Stephen, but....... there is a real flaw in the ability to overcontrol department, but like you say, used within its limits it might be alright!!! Here's some better pics. Ian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reg shaw Posted January 4, 2014 Author Share Posted January 4, 2014 .....and the Zenoah will mount something like this. Originally the thought was to fit a conventional former in the fuselage to mount the Zenoah to, the the Carden sitting over it, but it'd be a pain to install and set up the linkages and connect the exhaust etc, this way, if it works out, everything can be set up and the kit and caboodle bolted to the airframe in one go. We'll see! Ian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 Looks great Ian, you are certainly getting a wriggle on Yours looks great to itsgoingin love the paintjob CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Jones Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 Hi Ian , I have found that the Rudder is the Biggest problem , Over control of it can cause a kind of barrel roll , also over powering it too much . So the trick is to gently allow the power to increase and let the plane lift from the ground by it`s self and not to yank up in , to get off the ground or it will not end up a pretty sight at all . As you probable already know power equals height so , if it does not rise from the ground off it`s own accord then there is probable something wrong . But so long as CoG , thrust lines wing angles are all working in harmony they are very relaxing to fly . My pursuits in this are on a very tiny scale to yours and i have designed one of my own which has proved that when setup correctly they can be very forgiving and easy to fly and when pushed can do loops . Cheers Steve , Ps loving you're build . Edited By Stephen Jones on 04/01/2014 14:18:19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Jones Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 for those of you following this build blog you may also find this site of interest **LINK** you will also find the color scheme for the red one in above posts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flying Flea Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Hello Ian, Really love what you are doing with the Flea, can't wait to see it finished. I'm a bit of a Flea nut myself and thought you might be interested in a couple of very good websites on the Flea. I'll try and get a link to them and add a couple of photos. pouguide.org is a French site, just use a translator to get the gist nestofdragons.net is a Dutch site, but in english and gives you the history on the different models. They give you all the info that you need to make a safe Flea e.g NACA 23012 airfoil c.g at 25% of the total chord No wing overlap Rear wing incidence 6 deg Main wing incidence 0 - 12 deg max**LINK** Regards, Kieran **LINK** **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelly Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Great present for someone with a toddler, better by far than the usual pedal car . Save lots of money on the radio gear as well. Great project Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lindsay Todd Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Beautiful job as ever Ian, look forward to seeing the completed model. Linds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Ian, What a very nice and clean build love that Rudder, man thats big. great metal work and the wing ribs really are work of art . Thanks for starting the thread and good fun also seeing your documentation of the big plane. Iam sure this will be a beauty , keep up the good work and lookig forward to the next pickies. Cheers Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 The Flea has always fascinated me, it would be great to build a full-size one. There used to be one in the big car dealership in Builth Wells, I think it had been built by a family member before the war and never flown. I don't know if it's still there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reg shaw Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 The Carden continues. The sidevalve car engine has a cast iron head, but Carden made a new aluminium one with twin plug 'oles and a large 'extra' bit sticking up on top. This is presumably for extra surface area for the cooling system, or perhaps even this does away with the need for a header tank? Or it might even be because there is no water pump. Hot water rises so the bigger the difference between the top of the engine and the bottom of the radiator then the better the cooling system flows. Since this head is going to be the top of the exhaust, it canny be glassfibre or wood so I thought I'd give aluminium casting a shot. Never done it before but had lots of scrap ali castings available so thought I'd be worth a go. The master was made from MDF with washers glued on at the head bolt positions, filleted in with car filler. The plug holes are indented as they are on my Austin sidevalve head. There's another filleted washer at the top for the water filler cap seating. I really must apologise for the quality of the pics, but finding space to take decent pics is hard at the moment. The ali was cast into a crude oil sand mould, it should clean up OK but I can always do another now I know it works! Ian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Is there no end to your talents Ian? Tell us more about this oil sand lark CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 that is a work of art is that. you is a very talented man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reg shaw Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 Its basically sand and its a bit oily! Used for sand casting. Normal sand is a definate no no as it can retain moisture. Moisture and molten metal is not a good idea as it can almost be likened to an explosion. The moisture turns to steam and blows the molten metal and hot sand all over. No spitting at all with oil sand. Like I said it was my first go and the shape of the head is a bit tricky since its deep and straight sided. Getting the master out of the sand took a few of goes till it came out clean (ish) I'm hooked and am now constantly thinking of things to cast!! Ian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Brilliant, thanks for that Ian. If you want to chat to someone that casts all sorts of weird stuff in brass, bronze etc check out my facebook chum Simon Hawkes. He has just posted pics of some sculptures he has cast in bronze he is a clever chap too, he also makes exotic alloy car panels on his English wheel CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Reg, that's fantastic, congratulations. Just one observation though about risks you refer to with sand, you're absolutely right to mention that and what you are doing is less risky. The place I first worked at about fifty years ago used to cast Zinc anodes for electro-plating from the ingot, among many other things. Casters used to pour the molten metal from a hand-held ladle into a vertically split steel mould. One day doing the first cast, one of our guys had an explosion which blew the molten metal back into his face and he lost both eyes, as well as suffering other severe facial burns. The cause was identified as condensation in the mould caused by inadequate pre-heating. Although past retirement age, I still do some work with the firm I've been with since 1976, still with molten metal. Even now, I am very aware just how violently molten non-ferrous metals can blow back for the slightest reason. Anyone wanting to experiment should not be discouraged and certainly not by me, I might do it myself, but you can't over-emphasise the care that must be taken with even small volumes of molten metals. Also proper molten-metal specific eye-protection is essential, any old safety glasses or goggles just won't do. I've dealt with a number of serious molten metal burn accidents including as a witness at an inquest, so I hope you will understand why I felt I should make a comment. I've got two skin-grafts myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Hi Ian, any updates on Bertie? I noticed you got the pic header sorted Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Chaddock Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 reg The 'sticky up bit' on the Carden cylinder head is indeed a header/expansion tank as the radiator is way below the engine. In the Ford car it was not required as the top of the radiator was well above the engine and acted as the expansion tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reg shaw Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 Cheers for that Simon, confirmation indeed. No updates as yet as its busy at skool with final projects and the likes that seems to take up my Flea time. Ref. the header, the mod (Mr Bott, the lovely man) was on the case in quick fashion Danny, he'd been in touch even before I'd seen your post!!! Ian. Edited By reg shaw on 13/01/2014 17:36:59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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